MN12 T-45 Swap

for 4.6L V-8 ONLY
By: Papa John, AEDV8SC, Jerry Wroblewski, Jim Metcalf, V8Thunder
any many Thanx to all people involved.







Parts:

  • SuperCoupe Clutch Pedal assy
  • one clutch pad for brake pedal
  • 2.5" hole saw
  • wilwood master cylinder
  • master cylinder adapter
  • line from master cylinder to McLoed Bearing line
  • SuperCoupe remote master cylinder resavior
  • McLoaed clutch parts
  • Mustang GT backing plate
  • may need to space out starter 1/8" back from stock
  • shorter drive shaft
  • B$M Ripper Shifter
  • Shifter Box
  • Extension Shaft and roll pins
  • Extension link
  • new shifter link
  • Cover Plate and support for McLoed lines

Clutch Parts:

  • McLeod Hydraulic bearing    #1400
  • McLeod Threaded sleve       #1430
  • McLeod Spacer                  #1439
  • McLeod Clutch plate       #360048
  • McLeod Clutch disk        #260830



    McLeod Tel #: (714) 630-2764
    McLeod Tech #: (714) 630-3668

    (PHOTO)




Note: the dimples are in your firewall to locate the clutch pedal - NO DASH REMOVAL, but use a right angle drill to drill 2.5" hole and 3 screw holes

Note: Measurement of Bellhousing face to shifter center line is 33 1/4" If using B&M Ripper Shifter is 35"

Note: Change AN4 fitting on the throwout bearing

Instructions:

    • Buy one shifter link (PIC) from Ford. This will go in place of the one in the transmission.
    • Take the one in the transmission out to use it in the new extension box.
    • Cut 3/16 off the buttom (grind it)
    • 3/16 hole in the side of the part (one in the old box - actually the new one you bought will have to be drilled with 3/16" carbide tipped drill).
    • Roll pins here (PIC of A and B) prevent part A from rotating in part B.
    • (Pic) of the Extension Box
    • Cover for stock shifter box (Pic)
    • Cover's size (Pic)
    • Hole pattern for top of the extension box (Pic)
    • The new extension shaft is a 9/16 drill rod
    • The aluminium straps on the side of the shifter box are 5/16" x 1". 5/16 - 18 hex screws hold them to the box and weld holds them to the case (PHOTO)
    • The drive shaft is 58 1/4" long from flenge to L of front yolk (PIC)

    Here are the Photographs of the extension box:
    PHOTO 1 | PHOTO 2 | PHOTO 3 | PHOTO 4 | PHOTO 5

  1. You will have to cut out the buttom of the tray below the auto shifter to clear the extension box

  2. Buy 94-95 SuperCoupe clutch pedal assy and 1 extra foot pad to be used on your brake pedal after you trim it to fit the smaller foot pad

  3. Buy the McLeod Clutch parts - if u have a weak left foot then use a stock Mustang GT pressure plate

  4. The cover plate that goes where the clutch arm went is screwed to the case and has 2 bosses which house rubber bushings to support the inlet and outlet line for the throw-out bearing. (PHOTO)

  5. Buy the Ripper shifter from summit racing or jegs made by R&M Racing and set it on the new shifter box to its furthest back setting. (PHOTO1) & (PHOTO 2)

  6. The shifter box was made from billit aluminum but you can use a box from a scraped T-5 or T-45. (PHOTO)

  7. Trim the web at the back of the shifter box so that the new box can can come up to 3/16" of the original box

  8. Align both shifter box surfaces at the same height and drill a clearance hole in the back of T-45 box - 0.600dia


Clutch pedal assy:

  1. Wilwood clutch master cylinder p.n : 260-3372 (PIC)

  2. Buy SuperCoupe Clutch resavior

  3. You need the adapter from the master cylinder to the clutch bracket - (PIC)

  4. Buy 90-95 SuperCoupe Clutch Pedal bracket and pedal assy. - Junkyard

  5. You need 2.5" hole saw and 11/32 drill to drill firewall (remove white wire holder block next to left kick pannel to drill holes)

  6. You need (2) 5/8 - 18 hex bolts (3/4" long) use lock washer; from wilwood to adaper

  7. Screw on this coplink on a wilwood stem. It's a link between master cylinder and clutch pedal (PIC). Buy this through McMaster Carr (562-692-5911), P.N 6065K271

  8. (1) 5/16 - 24 hex nut is used as a locknut

  9. Make a stretch bracket to cennect strut tower to master slave cylinder (wilwood cylinder) so that firewall doesn't flex
As for the clutch, there are three options.
  • The easiest is to simply run a McCloyd or similar "universal" hydraulic throw-out bearing, along with the Super Coupe clutch pedal assembly and clutch master cylinder. Make up a braided stainless line to fit, and the clutch is solved. From what I hear though, the pedal effort is a little high, but from some of the cars I have owned in the past, that shouldn;t really be a problem, and is more than likely how I will go.
  • Solution #2 is to use the same SC clutch pedal and master, along with the SC clutch slave cylinder. This requires a custom front cover on the tranny, so I don't think it is my way to go.
  • Another option is to figure out a way to use a Mustang pedal assembly and cable. Then use all Mustang components for the clutch linkage.


The ECM can be reburned at several places I know of to work real nicely. The T45 also uses a VSS so the speedo is just a simple plug in and run.

The driveshaft will need to be shortened, or a custom shaft made up, using the T45 type Yoke.

The crossmember is the same on as you already have, just change the rear mount to the manual tranny mount. (PHOTO)

Note: In order to plug in the tranny connectors right, you will need to make some modifications to the plug. Here is a picuture and the description. (PIC) (PHOTO)

Note: The only gears you can run with this setup is 3.27. 3.55 is ok but thats asking for more gear changing.


Rest of the Install Photos:

PHOTO 1 | PHOTO 2 | PHOTO 3 | PHOTO 4 | PHOTO 5

Email Papa John with your questions at [email protected]