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Discussion Starter · #102 ·
Another update. Managed to finished the passenger side down pipe, and weld up the mufflers. I'll let the picture say everything..


There is enough space for the tires to fully rotate, so I am good:)











Mufflers welded. Just need to mount the exhaust to the downtube and exhaust side should be 100% completed.







Support bracket for the passenger side turbo. This should alleviate the weight on the pipe due to the weight of the turbo plus gate.











I think this will be the spot that the scavenge pump, I could not find any lower spot to put it






I'll work some more tomorrow. I will spot check the welds and when done, I will coat them with some BBQ grill paint or high temp paint and then let them dry and later on put the exhaust wrap. Also, would like to punch the hole in the pan but I think I won't do that until next week.

Keep tuning in for more updates...

That is all
 

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why punch the pan? You have a shurflow pump just pump t he oil to the valve cover or oil fill cap. Personally I would put a fitting in the valve cover so its not in the way of removing the oil fill but thats just me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #104 ·
why punch the pan? You have a shurflow pump just pump t he oil to the valve cover or oil fill cap. Personally I would put a fitting in the valve cover so its not in the way of removing the oil fill but thats just me.


I have been thinking that, but I was told that it was not a good thing to do . Actually that would really speed up the process faster but yet again.... I don't know. We'll see..
 

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Theres nothing wrong with doing that. STS , many custom setups and even Sir Will has returned the pumped oil to the cap. Even the Vortech charger kits for the F series trucks return the oil to valve cover since the units are above the valve cover line. From the oultet of your shurflow pump the valve cover looks to be less than a foot. It would make is easy and simple and nothing wrong could come of it.
 

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Theres nothing wrong with doing that. STS , many custom setups and even Sir Will has returned the pumped oil to the cap. Even the Vortech charger kits for the F series trucks return the oil to valve cover since the units are above the valve cover line.
You are comparing apples to oranges. The rear mounted STS system affords over 10’ of oil cooling and natively have significantly lower operating temperatures then near mount systems and lets not forget that superchargers use oil exclusively for purposes of lubricity and not as a means of thermal regulation. There are plenty of reasons that no one would return to a valve cover (such things as lacquering, coking and conductive cylinder head heating just to name a few) It’s a free world but doing it the right way is always better.
 

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Yet the vortech setup has about a foot of travel before the valve cover so how is that apples to oranges. No one yet has ever had an issue of returning oil to the valve cover as many turbostangs run pumps on low mounted setups like TX cat is doing and they also just dump it into the cover. Also if one is so worried about temp of the oil before return put an oil cooler at the outlet of the pump problem solved or wrap a few feet of oil line around the engine bay hidden( like the frame rails or firewall) before it returns to one of the covers. So if draining the oil to the heads was so dangerous why would so many people and companies set thier kits up to do just this? If yopu want I can find you quite a few pics of very high HP mustang 4.6Ls running low mounted turbos returning the oil up high. Im just going to leave it at that and shut my mouth since either way would work its just returning to cover would be alot easier. Also heating of the cylinder head woulnt be an issue if you dump the oil into the front of the timing cover and it hasnt been an issue anyways obviously on many cars.
 

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If it were my car, I'd return the oil to the valve cover. I would also suggest using full synthetic because it will hold up much better to the heat from the turbos.

David
 

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Discussion Starter · #109 ·
If it were my car, I'd return the oil to the valve cover. I would also suggest using full synthetic because it will hold up much better to the heat from the turbos.

David

Could you tell me why David?! Was planning in drilling a hole on tdriver side cover on front side..

Am planning on running full synthetic, need to change the old oil first, cars been sitting for 1.5 years but was thinking in getting the cheap oil and then changing to full sythetic. Or should I just run full synthetic when I change the oil?
 

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Could you tell me why David?! Was planning in drilling a hole on tdriver side cover on front side..

Am planning on running full synthetic, need to change the old oil first, cars been sitting for 1.5 years but was thinking in getting the cheap oil and then changing to full sythetic. Or should I just run full synthetic when I change the oil?
Why return the oil to the valve cover ? Because it's easier than putting a return into the oil pan or timing cover, and that is what a scavenging pump is designed to do. Another reason is it will give the oil more time to de-aerate before reaching the oil pan. The oil coming out of a turbo is usually frothy.

No problem with using non synthetic, it just breaks down much quicker because of the added heat.

David
 

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holy exhaust leak batman! Might want to perform a pressure test to ferret out any leaks before she's back together!
 

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expecially after adding a 4500 RPM stall converter, trans brake, and a spark-control two step!

BOOST-Launch!!!!
 

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Could you tell me why David?! Was planning in drilling a hole on tdriver side cover on front side..

Am planning on running full synthetic, need to change the old oil first, cars been sitting for 1.5 years but was thinking in getting the cheap oil and then changing to full sythetic. Or should I just run full synthetic when I change the oil?

I was reading over on the turboforums and noticed you decided to return the oil to the pan and encountered a few problems :rolleyes:.

Just wondering if you got it running yet.

David
 

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Discussion Starter · #115 ·
I was reading over on the turboforums and noticed you decided to return the oil to the pan and encountered a few problems :rolleyes:.

Just wondering if you got it running yet.

David

NO dude, sh!t. Should have listed to you and it would been easier to just drill the damn valve cover. Still having issues. I can not make the hole bigger on the pan (crank interfering.) So I've been grinding down 3/8 NPT fittings and the first one did not worked. Grinded it too much and when I put it on the pan, it was way too loose. So I bought another and will do it one more time. If this time does not work, I think I will have to change pan and might as well put a mark 8 oil pan and weld the bung, but we will see.. Stupid crank:mad:
 

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NO dude, sh!t. Should have listed to you and it would been easier to just drill the damn valve cover. Still having issues. I can not make the hole bigger on the pan (crank interfering.) So I've been grinding down 3/8 NPT fittings and the first one did not worked. Grinded it too much and when I put it on the pan, it was way too loose. So I bought another and will do it one more time. If this time does not work, I think I will have to change pan and might as well put a mark 8 oil pan and weld the bung, but we will see.. Stupid crank:mad:
It's not too late...cut your losses and weld a patch over the hole in the pan, then run the drain line to one of the rocker covers. I'm a little confused by why you are grinding down fittings...are you welding this fitting onto the pan or trying to thread it into the hole you punched ?

David
 

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If you weld a patch on the pan i would do like turbo66 said on TTf and hookup the breather system to another cars exhaust stream to purge the motor of oxyegen otherwise it could be a "bang" of a job. or pull the pan weld a patch or bung to the hole. If it were me I would do the welding while the pan is on the car but thats me if you dont purge it and just weld you could be pulling a motor to fix damage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #120 ·
It's not too late...cut your losses and weld a patch over the hole in the pan, then run the drain line to one of the rocker covers. I'm a little confused by why you are grinding down fittings...are you welding this fitting onto the pan or trying to thread it into the hole you punched ?

David

Reason as to why I am grinding the threads of the fitting is so I can stick into the hole. I can not make the hole any bigger because the crank is in the way and the punch hits the crank. I've looked into getting the pan put without moving the engine and it is impossible. So I am trying to thread the fitting onto the whole.

Have another question. I have not turned on the car in like 1.5 years, it has just been sitting. IF I weld the fitting while the pan is on the engine, there would not be any problems of a big bang due to the oxygen?

About you TM tt281, really didn't understand what he meant until your kinda clarified it :tongue:
 
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