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PostWhore, The AFDB is on a lil tight.
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Im not sure that is a good Idea with 300lbs of tq. I dont have that much yet but its a goal. but for the N/A 6s thats not a bad idea. Id like to see someone try this.
 

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How about $4 ones that actually work on our cars?
 

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Yes. Yes they are. 2 per side, at $0.99 each.
 

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Hello

So who used the Pucks first?

I used them 4 years ago. after i broke both Engine mounts & the trany mount.
I ran them for 2 seasons. Last season I changed to 1 3/4in pipe. About 3in long. & a Gd 8 bolt.


Yes, thats a 351W in there.



PAUL
 

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Paul, you used the pucks first. I remember consulting with you about flipping the top plates to move the motor back, and I remember I said to you that I was thinking about getting a couple hockey pucks for motor mounts, and you responded that was exactly what you had been using for 2 years.
 

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Ok

Hello

My pucks started to come apart. I think mostly due to the excessive heat.

My car runs hot!!

Think It got that licked, Maybe?

Running over 6000rpm is very taxing to the cooling system.

Paul
 

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Im not sure that is a good Idea with 300lbs of tq. I dont have that much yet but its a goal. but for the N/A 6s thats not a bad idea. Id like to see someone try this.
I have dynoed about 260 lbs of torque on a roots blower on my other car and I put urethane mounts in it. I've seen these hold up on on cars with a lot more power to the ground than myself as well, although most that have 300lbs of torque and 300+whp usually switch to solid billet mounts.

When the liquid urethane sets after a few days, it is very solid and also has a little give like a poly mount. Also, urethane has a high heat index so it won't be subject to damage from under the hood temps.

This write up is actually kinda the ghetto fab version. To do the real version, dont' use window adhesive urethane, use proper industrial 80 shore liquid urethane. It sets into a lot more consistent mold because it starts out as a liquid, although it takes 10 times longer to set. Get it from Mc Masters, www.mcmaster.com, part number 8644K11.

It helps a lot with wheel hop. You do feel more vibrations, but IMO not very noticeable, but as with most things with performance modifications, its give and take, whether its more noise, less ride comfort, etc. Also, if you really want performance, 0 wheel hop, and don't care about vibration, get a billet motor mount.
 

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ok, i understand how poly bushings in the rear suspension help wheel hop, but how does the motor mount affect wheel hop? i thought poly motor mounts were to give a tighter more responsive feel of the motor. i had no clue that keeps the wheels from bouncing too...
 

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First, wheel hop is more prevalent in FWD cars, but can exist and be a problem in both FWD and RWD cars. Motor mounts and bushings are typically manufactured in mind of cars to reduce vibrations for comfort. This flex kills vibrations, but it also produces a secondary, unwanted, oscillatory mechanical system. Normally, this system isn't acted on in such a way that it oscillates. However, in hard launching situations, the weight suddenly transfers to the rear of the car, reducing traction in the front and almost causing a paddleball reaction in which motion travels to the back, and then weight gets slingshotted back to the front with a higher force. Now we have an oscillating force applied to an oscillating system. This oscilating transfer of force and motion from the front to the back of the car as a product of flexible mounts and hard launches causes wheel hop. It is more prevalent in a FWD car because weight gets transferred to the back first. However, the motion then gets reversed in which case the wheel hop can occur in RWD applications. This is why Ingalls, NGM, APE, etc. offer products such as stiffer to solid mounts and engine torque dampers to minimize the back and forth oscilation of the engine so as to minimize wheel hop.

Also, remember that these are not the only reasons wheel hop can exist, just one source of it. I also have had to use traction bars to reduce wheel hop.
 

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It doesn't help as much as poly stuff in the rear, but when the motor moves, it causes deflection in the entire drivetrain, which causes wheel hop. Keep the motor where it's supposed to be better, and it won't be pulling the diff around, which won't change the angles of the rear suspension, which won't make the wheels hop.
 

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anyone wanna help me make tose hockey puck mounts for my 3.8? has this been done?
 

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The 3.8 will require a little bit more work. The top plate on the 3.8 attaches with 2 smaller bolts, instead of one stud through the center like the 5.0. What you would have to do is take your mounts out in one piece, and mark the center of the top plate, then drill a hole through the top plate, and holes through the hockey pucks, and put a 1/2" grade 8 bolt through the whole thing, then reinstall them.

Oh yeah, also you might want to use a couple washers as spacers between the plate and the pucks. The 2 hockey pucks are about 3/8" shorter than the stock mounts, which is fine on a 5.0, but with the placement of the oil filter on the 3.8, you might not be able to get the oil filter off if you lower the motor that much.
 

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3rd Gear Chirper
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So would this work on a 4.6L?

I have SCP mounts that are waiting to go in, but they seem to be hit or miss, some people have broken them in just a few months, some have been running them for quite a while with high HP/TQ numbers and haven't broken them yet, so I'd like to try this hockey puck idea.
 

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I don't see why it wouldn't. As long as you can run a bolt through the top plate, 2 hockey pucks, and the bottom bracket, then the pucks will be fine as a replacement for the actual mount part. I don't know the design of the 4.6 upper brackets off the top of my head, so you may need to drill or enlarge a hole to get the bolt to go through the top bracket, but all the MN12 bottom brackets are the same basic design, so that part definitely won't be a problem.
 
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