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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just had to have the water pump replaced on my fiance's Sable because the impeller blades had corroded off. The mechanic that did the job for me told me that when you have troubles with rusty coolant and corrosion, you're supposed to run 100% coolant and NOT add any water. He said that the water is what causes the corrosion and that using 100% antifreeze will give you the best corrosion resistance. I ran that by a few of my other buddies and they think that using 100% coolant might compromise the cooling system efficiency. They say that adding water to the system is what makes the boiling point of the coolant go up and they suggested that I add some water to the system despite what the mechanic told me. I've never heard of using 100% coolant before and I'm just wondering if any of you guys have ever heard of this and what your thoughts are.
 

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Corrosion is caused when antifreeze is not changed often enough and the anti-corosion additives wear out. Your freinds are correct in the fact that adding water helps to raise the boiling point. You should run a 50/50 mix for best cooling system performance and I would think twice about taking your car to that mechanic again.

-Miller
 

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Refrigerator Raider Hater
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50/50 mix is best. If you have issues with corrosion, you need to change it more often, and/or add a corrosion resistance booster.
 

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only reason why he said that is so you dont add hose or sink water to the mixture. you CAN add water and make it half water and half antifreeze but use DISTILLED water ONLY!!

and i agree with not taking your car to him again lol, not one car from the factory is gonna come 100% antifreeze, i highly doubt it.
 

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Yep, don’t do 100% antifreeze. I’ve heard of using diff ratios of water/antifreeze for colder or hotter climates, but there usually for the extreme sides of the weather spectrum. Like if u live some were its always below freezing or if it’s never below 90*.
 

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coolant lowers the boiling point. on hotter climate you can run 30 coolant 70 water for better heat disipation. running 100 coolant and soon you may wonder why you blow your headgasket.
 

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If you are worried about contaminants in the water buy distilled water. Straight coolant does not cool as well. The only reason it is used is for corrosion resistance and antifreeze.
Alan
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Alright, I added some water and the first night we brought the car home, it still wouldn't blow out hot air. The air was warmer but not hot. I think I've gotten all the air bubbles out but it still won't blow hot air. Could this be because the mixture is still off? I added about a half gallon of water to the system but I'm certain that its not enough to make it 50/50.
 

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Pure Coolant will transfer less BTUs than the mix but the difference is probably nowhere near enough to account for your lack of heat.
 

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fold_em83 said:
Alright, I added some water and the first night we brought the car home, it still wouldn't blow out hot air. The air was warmer but not hot. I think I've gotten all the air bubbles out but it still won't blow hot air. Could this be because the mixture is still off? I added about a half gallon of water to the system but I'm certain that its not enough to make it 50/50.
check the owner's manual or call a dealership to find out how much capacity the cooling system holds.....1 gallon = 3.78 liters, just incase you need the conversion factor...im fairly sure you will need more distilled water than that.....you'll have to drain some coolant from the radiator drain plug to get the level low enough for it to accept more distilled water
 

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fold_em83 said:
Alright, I added some water and the first night we brought the car home, it still wouldn't blow out hot air. The air was warmer but not hot. I think I've gotten all the air bubbles out but it still won't blow hot air. Could this be because the mixture is still off? I added about a half gallon of water to the system but I'm certain that its not enough to make it 50/50.
I doubt the mixture is the fault of a not hot enough heater. Most neglected cooling systems have plugged up heater cores. Most of your old water pump impeller blades are probably stuck in there.
 

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If you are having interior heat troubles I would be more suspect of the blend door than the cooling system
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I disconnected the heater core and applied pressure just with my breath. I was easily able to blow coolant out of the heater core so I don't think its plugged. I disconnected all of the other lines and applied pressure to them and they don't seem to be plugged either. As for the blend door, when I adjust from cool to hot and back, I can hear and feel the difference so I suspect the door is operating properly. At this point, I'm thinking/hoping that there is still just air trapped in the system that needs to be worked out.
 

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A bad t-stat could be causing you trouble too.

Rob
 

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I agree with what other members have said. My advice is this.

First, don't use that mechanic again. Poor maintenance is by far the main reason cooling systems corrode. The chemicals in the antifreeze that protect against corrosion slowly lose their effectiveness, and that's why it need to be changed out every 3 years or so. The water in the system has nothing to do with corrosion, and using straight antifreeze is likely to cause overheating.

Second, have a radiator shop flush the cooling system. Or you can do it yourself, but not as well, with one of the cooling system cleaners sold in car parts stores.

Third, replace the thermostat with a name brand one with the factory-recommended opening temperature--probably 195 deg.

Fourth, refill the system with 50% distilled water and 50% antifreeze. Use a good quality green one, e.g. Xerex, and don't guess--measure.

Fifth, when you refill, make sure the heater is full on and remove the bleed plug, if the Sable has one. Fill the radiator and then replace the plug, if any. Don't forget to fill the overflow bottle about halfway.

Sixth, Check for leaks the next morning and top the system off.
 
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