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my tbird just hit 100k. What all does the "100,000 mile check-up" include? Basically, i dont' want to go to ford, what fluids should i change and what not? THanks
 

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I'd give almost everything the "once over" if you're not up-to-date on them. Inspect all hoses and belts, make sure all fluids at proper levels, and clean (meaning 'not old'). Think about the "inspection points" the oil change places do, and check them yourself.

Also, you may want to visit a Ford dealer web page, go to the Service tab, and choose Maintenance Schedules. Fill in the information requested about your car, and see what they suggest. You can type in any mileage you want, and get a broader view of what Ford suggests to do at certain mileage levels.

Here's a sample (1994 T-bird, 4.6L, 100k):

Maintenance Schedules

Current Mileage 100000 Driving Conditions Normal
Model Year 1994 Model Thunderbird

Based on the information provided, the following is the recommended scheduled maintenance for your vehicle:

Present Service: 100000
Change engine oil and replace oil filter

Inspect tires for wear and rotate

Perform multi-point inspection

Replace rear axle lubricant, non-synthetic fluid only 346P


Next Service: 105000
Change engine oil and replace oil filter

Inspect brake pads/shoes/rotors/drums, brake lines & hoses, and parking brake system

Inspect engine cooling system and hoses

Inspect tires for wear and rotate

Lubricate all hinges and latches, door locks and door weatherstrips

Perform multi-point inspection

Change green engine coolant, as equipped 13P


Previous Major Service: 95000
Change engine oil and replace oil filter

Inspect tires for wear and rotate

Perform multi-point inspection

Dang! A 1994 model with only 100k?!? Mine's going over 215k today! :thumbsup:
 

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garyneff said:
my tbird just hit 100k. What all does the "100,000 mile check-up" include? Basically, i dont' want to go to ford, what fluids should i change and what not? THanks

One fluid I changed was the rear axle lube. Don't forget the friction modifier qdditive as well!

I also got to that damn wee-little Hot-water BY-PASS HOSE located under the intake!

Here's my schedule of "regular" maintenance:

COOLING SYSTEM: every 24K exchange all the COOLANT; every 48K change the HOSES (Upper/lower engine + heater hoses)

OIL/FILTER: every 3000 miles

SERPENTINE BELT: Every 48K (coincides with changing the hoses...convenience!)

TRANNY: Every 30K (Mercon-V only!)

P/S: every 24K (Texaco or Valvoline synthetic -same stuff--VERY QUIET)

BRAKE FLUID: When I change pads (front OR rear) bleed entire system.

Spark Plugs: every 15K (that's about one year of driving)

Spark Plug Wires: Every 45K (about three years)

Shocks: 45K (about three years)


Except for that damn 4R70W, my car has treated me well...not one professional mechanic repair needed!
 

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Friction modifier's only necessary if you're running a limited-slip differential; those of us using factory open-rear diffs (non-SC models mostly) can run straight gear fluid, sans additive. But then again, I don't suppose it'll hurt anything if you do put some it ... other than your wallet. :)

But what's up with the specification of "non-synthetic ONLY" for rear gear fluid in the Ford maint. spec. listing above? I've been running Mobil 1 in 8.8" rear ends on several different cars for years, no problems, but is the IRS 8.8" rear different than the solid-axle 8.8" cars somehow? I know that Mobil 1 is actually BAD in certain gearboxes like in a 5spd Probe GT - GL-5 lubes contain sulfur, which eats brass synchro gears - but in a RWD application, why would Ford call synthetics a no-no?

Some other things to add to the maintenance list:

CLEAN MAF - every month, if using K&N / every six months on regular paper filters

CHECK IAC/PCV VACUUM FITTINGS - every 4.6L motor I see with over 100k on it gets the same dry-rotted rubber connection problems. It's like $10 for the T-fitting on the back of the intake manifold (goes between IAC line and PCV line), and I believe it took about 2 feet of regular 3/8" and 3 feet of 1/4" rubber tubing to replace the other miscellaneous vacuum lines coming off the evap canister, PCV, and IAC valve. When these rot and leak, you get all kinds of weird EGR error codes, rough idle, stumbling, hesitation, pinging, etc. and it takes forever to track it down otherwise.

CLEAN EGR PASSAGES - every 50k miles. The passages under the throttle body elbow clog up with carbon and they goof with your EGR valve, makes it throw codes, causes pinging, funky idle ... you know, all the usual weirdness.

REPLACE DASH LIGHT BULBS - every 100k miles. When one of the warning lights burns out, such as the airbag, and a code for it is eventually triggered by something else, it will resort to a horrible BEEP-BEEP-BEEP noise because there's no working light there. Best to avoid that nightmare by pulling the dash apart just once - it's not that hard at all to do on MN12's, only took me 30 minutes in/out - and replace all those little 192-series bulbs with fresh ones, preferrably the Sylvania Long Life kind. Pretty much a one-time fix, unless you manage to keep the car running past 200k miles. Also a good time to clean all that nasty dust out from the inside of there and put in gauge bezels and/or white-face gauges, while you've got the dash gauge cluster out.

CHECK BRAKE HOSES - every brake pad change. They're rubber, therefore they rot. Look for leaks, cracks, or whatever. Also a good excuse to upgrade to braided stainless steel brake lines.

EDIT: (Oops, didn't notice the brake lines already mentioned above.)
 

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hmm 100,000 mile checkup, heres what ya do, bring it down to the local dragstrip, run the snot out of it and then go home and post up your 1/4 times.
 

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LOL...

I would suggest changing the tranny fluid more often thean 30K, even if you have a cooler. I'd say 12K w/o, 20K with.
 
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