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Discussion Starter #1
Cleaned MAF no change - Swapped in new MAF & no change, pulled Battery Lead too- IAC & TPS 1 year old - No Vaccuum leaks - Pretty much drivin me nuts - Help.
 

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1997 Thunderbird 4.6, 1998 Mark VIII LSC
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On my old 93 I had a similar issue for a while. Turned out to be the cruise cable had rusted then gotten stuck, causing it to prevent the throttle valve from closing fully at idle.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanx I will check - Now why when I Search MAF on these Boards do I get no Matches ? - That;s impossible, what am I doing wrong there ?
 

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My 97 lsc developed a huge vacuum leak on the bottom of the dual bore throttle body. It was the one that points to the passenger side (not sure about 96.) there was some kinda brass screw thing with a seal that deteriorated and fell out. Perhaps this was for fine-tuning of the idle, not real sure. I noticed upon a start one day that it idled high and made lots of noise under the hood. It was the vacuum leak making the sucking sound. I put a plug in there and never looked back. Would be nice if your problem was that easy, but you haven't found any vacuum leaks. Keep us posted!
 

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Hey JP how did the cobra intake swap imrc delete go? I've been considering it for a while but I can't seem to get a good price on the cobra intake and am worried about the lag on the low end. If it's not a problem I might have to wait until after my wedding and get the MMR sheet metal b-head intake instead. Let me know because my current setup is running out of air on the high end with the cams and my 1/4 mile times are suffering because of it.
 

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I had to push it aside for other projects. I'm basically ready to put it all back together once it gets back in the rotation.

On my '96 Mark VIII, I had a very similar high idle appear all at once. After searching, I removed the throttle body and it turned out the TPS was unplugged! :eek:

Also carefully check the throttle body to intake tube seal. It is not uncommon to have it not seal properly due to its location. I glue the seal onto the lip of the intake tube to keep it properly in place.

Plus I've seen and heard of more than one instance of 'replacement' IACV's that failed after a year or so. They almost always turned out to be generic parts store brands. :rolleyes:

Moral of story... if I replace any critical sensor or actuator in the engine compartment, I try to get Motorcraft if at all possible.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Knew it was'nt IAC as it would actually start Idling at 2200RPM & quickly drop to 1700 (IAC functioning).

Idled at 1700 RPM with SECOND Reman MAF but it finally triggered some helpful codes unlike previous 2 MAFs - TPS not in expected position for MAF state - Unplugged TPS & it went to 800RPM just like when I unplugged any of 3 MAFs - Replaced my 1 year old TPS w/old TPS I replaced during a previous IAC job & it purrs~!

Wires in second Reman MAF look just like OEM MAF - Wires in first Reman MAF were not as pretty - My OEM MAF may still be good but running the Reman, my gas mileage was down recently.

New IAT triggered an IAT Hi Input Code at install but after clearing never came back.

EGR Codes are gone with new Presure Differential Sensor.

Runs like a scalded Ape... 176K Miles.
 
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