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Discussion Starter #1
is this the only tool that i would need other than a good socket set for the uca or is there more??? gonna replace both sides and lca too anything else??? not enuff money for the whole front end just uppers and lowers and maybe a couple of other things... hitting the bolts with pb once a week now for about a month, just waiting for the taxes to come in,,, im new to the whole suspension stuff, any good how to's with pics ????? been searching and searching and searching. reading and reading and reading, better to be knowledged about it b4 i begin right
 

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Suggestion:

After you get the car up on the jack stands and get the tires off - take the calipers off the spindles and support them from the inner fender.

Next, take the lower shock mount bolt out.

Next - look at the top of the wheel well. There's three bolts up around the shock absorber top mount. Take those three loose, then pull the shock and spring out as one assembly.

It's a bit easier to get the UCA out and in without the spring in the way.

Be prepared - you may discover the tie rod ends, the strut rod bushings, and/or the sway bar end links and/or bushings to be shot. I'd grab the bushings (search here for the four part numbers, 2x each part # for a complete set) for the strut rod. Also, verify you can get the tie rod inner and outer ends, the sway bar end links, and the rack bellows in town in Moog or Motorcraft.

If any of the new fittings are greasable, I'd use a good quality moly based lubricant, instead of a pure lithium based lubricant. But that's me.

Next to last - Put the bolts in, snug them in, but don't tighten the ones for the control arms until you have the car on the ground.

LAST - GET THE CAR ALIGNED AFTERWARDS.

Yes, I capitalized that. I can NOT emphasize that enough!

RwP

RwP
 

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Another tool tip. Everyone needs a pair of the super jumbo sized channel-lock type pliers. I use mine all the time squeezing brake calipers, for plumbing, you name it.

Installing the new uca's, with these pliers you can easily squeeze the new ball joints right down into the proper position in the clasp knuckle (whatever it's called) without beating on it.

I didn't have too much problem getting the bolts in or out with the coil springs still in place either.
 

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All I needed was the wrench, a flat tip screwdriver to separate the end of the spindle the pinch bolt goes through, and some wire to hang the spindle from the fender with. I got a wrench kit that had 8 diffrent sizes on only 2 wrenches. Which helped because I think that the pinch bolt is a different size.
 

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Patience, and lots of it. My lower control arms were a royal PITA to replace. I got the assembled Moog ones that already have everything in them. The inner bushing (control arm to frame) was so old and trashed that it had rusted itself to the camber bolt (or something similar to this, ie - it wouldn't come out). I couldn't hammer the camber bolt out due to not getting a good swing on the hammer. Ended up sawzall'ing the camber bolts out and replacing them as well.
 

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I didn't have too much problem getting the bolts in or out with the coil springs still in place either.
*nod* Didn't say you couldn't, and I didn't remove them - but I DID loosen the top of the passenger side, and it made that side easier.

But if he's pulling the LCAs ANYWAY - pull those spring/shock combos and make it easier, why not? :diablo:

RwP
 

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Another tool tip. Everyone needs a pair of the super jumbo sized channel-lock type pliers. I use mine all the time squeezing brake calipers, for plumbing, you name it.

Installing the new uca's, with these pliers you can easily squeeze the new ball joints right down into the proper position in the clasp knuckle (whatever it's called) without beating on it.

I didn't have too much problem getting the bolts in or out with the coil springs still in place either.
LOL agreed! I have a drawer in my tool box specifically designated for "B.A.T" (Big Ass Tools!) My grandfather was a machinist in the navy, then operated his own manufacturing plant before retiring and doing a lot of his own work on his Motorhome. I inherited some huge tools!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
wow thanks alot ppl you dodnt know how much this means to me this helps out alot now any pics with labels to help me even more????:D
 

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Yeah, I just now noticed he mentioned the lowers also.

Haven't messed with those yet, but I figure you are going to need a lot more than an 18mm wrench in that case.

Lot's of B.A.N.s down there (Big Arse Nuts).

:D:D
 

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Don't forget to remove the pinch nut and bolt completely. I felt so stupid after cussing and beating on the old one the first time. I only removed it because I was preparing to split the old control arm off. After I pulled the bolt and nut completely out the wheel assembly fell out on its own.

I'll be in there doing lowers very soon as the bushings are gone now.
 

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Don't forget to remove the pinch nut and bolt completely. I felt so stupid after cussing and beating on the old one the first time. I only removed it because I was preparing to split the old control arm off. After I pulled the bolt and nut completely out the wheel assembly fell out on its own.

I'll be in there doing lowers very soon as the bushings are gone now.
Yeah, I am stupid also. Didn't pick up on the fact the bolt fits through the big groove on the ball joint stud for a while.
 

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This is not that hard; southern cars rock! No rust.

You will need an alignment when you get done.

A two jaw and three jaw puller makes this really easy; advanced will rent you a set.

You are replacing upper and lower, so start with the bottom.

After you get the lower arm off, all the other sh*t just falls off when you unbolt it.

I wire the calipers to the top of the shock, since everything else is coming out.
You don't have to unbolt the calipers to do the top, but the bottom arm requires it. Just don't yank the brake line apart is the important part.

I put the front on stands; whenever you are working with a sway bar, you need both wheels off the ground the same, lol.

Putting a puller on the bottom ball joint is a lot better than using a pickle fork and a hammer, believe me.

You also need it to yank apart the swaybar endlinks, if you are replacing those. If you have a constant rattle, that's it. :)

You'll love the way it feels with all new stuff. TN roads are smooth; at least my end of the state, anyway.

My 96 suspension has been completely rebuilt, and I just added koni shocks, bracing, and a new exhaust; My commute rocks.
 
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