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You'll love the way it feels with all new stuff. TN roads are smooth; at least my end of the state, anyway.
Must not be anywhere near Memphis. Took our first trip up there recently and alignment shops must be like gold mines around that city.

:D:D
 

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Putting a puller on the bottom ball joint is a lot better than using a pickle fork and a hammer, believe me.

Why is it better? Ive done plenty of ball joints with my fork and never had a problem. One or two hits and its good.Most of the time its older cars and Im in the rust belt.
 

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Suggestion:

After you get the car up on the jack stands and get the tires off - take the calipers off the spindles and support them from the inner fender.

Next, take the lower shock mount bolt out.

Next - look at the top of the wheel well. There's three bolts up around the shock absorber top mount. Take those three loose, then pull the shock and spring out as one assembly.

It's a bit easier to get the UCA out and in without the spring in the way.

Be prepared - you may discover the tie rod ends, the strut rod bushings, and/or the sway bar end links and/or bushings to be shot. I'd grab the bushings (search here for the four part numbers, 2x each part # for a complete set) for the strut rod. Also, verify you can get the tie rod inner and outer ends, the sway bar end links, and the rack bellows in town in Moog or Motorcraft.

If any of the new fittings are greasable, I'd use a good quality moly based lubricant, instead of a pure lithium based lubricant. But that's me.

Next to last - Put the bolts in, snug them in, but don't tighten the ones for the control arms until you have the car on the ground.

LAST - GET THE CAR ALIGNED AFTERWARDS.

Yes, I capitalized that. I can NOT emphasize that enough!

RwP

RwP
When I did mine last year I rebuilt my entire subframe on a bench, thats really easy... :tongue:
 

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Why is it better? Ive done plenty of ball joints with my fork and never had a problem. One or two hits and its good.Most of the time its older cars and Im in the rust belt.
I couldn't get one out with a pickle fork at all.

Finally, it pulled the balljoint thru the hole, and the entire knuckle ended up on my bench getting pounded on with a hammer, to get the balljoint out of the knuckle. (insert much cursing here :) )

Bought a small 2 jaw puller, and they pop right out. The same one also fits the swaybar endlinks in the front.
 

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Bought a small 2 jaw puller, and they pop right out. The same one also fits the swaybar endlinks in the front.
I'm glad that I bought one of these even though I didn't end up using it for the tie rod ends. I did end up needing it for the sway bar links when I dug back into the suspension to replace the sway bar bushings. It also came in handy on some other bolt you probably wouldn't consider using it on but it really did the job. I just cannot remember what that bolt was. I did need it though when I went to do the lower control arms. The driver's side ball joint came out fairly easily with a 6 pound hammer but I needed the puller on the other side. I'm glad I had bought it for $16 rather than renting it.
 

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Ive found those 2 jaw pullers are awesome, except that they tend to fly off at a high rate of speed when it finally gives way... :tongue:
 

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Discussion Starter #28
thanks everybody for the info now time to get some labeled diagrams so i can picture all this out in my head....that hurts....lol
 
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