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Ok what is the best years.
Just found this deal what do you think?


Rebuilt Ford Mustang 5.0 302 SBF Windsor motor for sale.. Standard bore roller motor.. Heads were gone through and shaved with new valves, new seals, retainers, etc.. Felpro head gasket kit.. Ford Racing E303 cam with new lifters & pushrods.. GT40 explorer intake manifold with Trickflow EGR elbow and Throttle body setup..

Will fit fox body mustangs by swapping front accessories, dizzy, & throttle body setup!

NO ISSUES AT ALL!! I have videos of it running this weekend before I pulled it out..

PRICES ARE FIRM, not taking any offers!

$1500 for COMPLETE motor with Engine Harness, ECU (V8 5 speed ECM), Cold Air Intake, and BBK Shorty Headers!!

$1200 without harness, ecu, cold air intake and headers..

$1000 oil pan to valve covers with front brackets.. NO intake manifold, cold air intake, headers, harness, ecu, or alternator..

I also have a complete 5 speed conversion with T5 transmission for SN95 Mustang 5.0 GT (94-95).. Im willing to make a package deal!!
 

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Just found this deal what do you think?


Rebuilt Ford Mustang 5.0 302 SBF Windsor motor for sale.. Standard bore roller motor.. Heads were gone through and shaved with new valves, new seals, retainers, etc.. Felpro head gasket kit.. Ford Racing E303 cam with new lifters & pushrods.. GT40 explorer intake manifold with Trickflow EGR elbow and Throttle body setup..

Will fit fox body mustangs by swapping front accessories, dizzy, & throttle body setup!

NO ISSUES AT ALL!! I have videos of it running this weekend before I pulled it out..

PRICES ARE FIRM, not taking any offers!

$1500 for COMPLETE motor with Engine Harness, ECU (V8 5 speed ECM), Cold Air Intake, and BBK Shorty Headers!!

$1200 without harness, ecu, cold air intake and headers..

$1000 oil pan to valve covers with front brackets.. NO intake manifold, cold air intake, headers, harness, ecu, or alternator..

I also have a complete 5 speed conversion with T5 transmission for SN95 Mustang 5.0 GT (94-95).. Im willing to make a package deal!!
Quick question, what exhaust manifolds are you running on your SC?
 

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If it's still got the E7 heads, you're giving up a decent amount of power. The valves are tiny in those. That being said, if it's rebuilt, might be worth it until you find a set of gt40 heads
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Just found this deal what do you think?


Rebuilt Ford Mustang 5.0 302 SBF Windsor motor for sale.. Standard bore roller motor.. Heads were gone through and shaved with new valves, new seals, retainers, etc.. Felpro head gasket kit.. Ford Racing E303 cam with new lifters & pushrods.. GT40 explorer intake manifold with Trickflow EGR elbow and Throttle body setup..

Will fit fox body mustangs by swapping front accessories, dizzy, & throttle body setup!

NO ISSUES AT ALL!! I have videos of it running this weekend before I pulled it out..

PRICES ARE FIRM, not taking any offers!

$1500 for COMPLETE motor with Engine Harness, ECU (V8 5 speed ECM), Cold Air Intake, and BBK Shorty Headers!!

$1200 without harness, ecu, cold air intake and headers..

$1000 oil pan to valve covers with front brackets.. NO intake manifold, cold air intake, headers, harness, ecu, or alternator..

I also have a complete 5 speed conversion with T5 transmission for SN95 Mustang 5.0 GT (94-95).. Im willing to make a package deal!!
If it's still got the E7 heads, you're giving up a decent amount of power. The valves are tiny in those. That being said, if it's rebuilt, might be worth it until you find a set of gt40 heads
It has the GT40 heads and new valves and springs. Also it was re-built with a 303 cam
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I saw the GT40 intake, but it didn't specify heads, so make sure. But if it had those, I'd be interested for what you're using the car for.
I have the GT heads as well. I’m racing it in the 24 hrs of lemons series. I was racing the 3.8 SC V6 but kept blowing head gaskets so I’m switching to the 302. Need a motor for endurance the 92 thunderbird chassis seams to be holding up good
 

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Just found this deal what do you think?


Rebuilt Ford Mustang 5.0 302 SBF Windsor motor for sale.. Standard bore roller motor.. Heads were gone through and shaved with new valves, new seals, retainers, etc.. Felpro head gasket kit.. Ford Racing E303 cam with new lifters & pushrods.. GT40 explorer intake manifold with Trickflow EGR elbow and Throttle body setup..

Will fit fox body mustangs by swapping front accessories, dizzy, & throttle body setup!

NO ISSUES AT ALL!! I have videos of it running this weekend before I pulled it out..

PRICES ARE FIRM, not taking any offers!

$1500 for COMPLETE motor with Engine Harness, ECU (V8 5 speed ECM), Cold Air Intake, and BBK Shorty Headers!!

$1200 without harness, ecu, cold air intake and headers..

$1000 oil pan to valve covers with front brackets.. NO intake manifold, cold air intake, headers, harness, ecu, or alternator..

I also have a complete 5 speed conversion with T5 transmission for SN95 Mustang 5.0 GT (94-95).. Im willing to make a package deal!!
Chuck! Your alive. That's always good to hear.

Ive always thought of a 302 as $500 engine. Maybe the price is a little higher as donor cars have dwindled
E303 cam if new - $100
New lifters - $100
New pushrods - $20
GT40 intake - $80-100 (maybe more as its cheap to install HP but this is what i paid at the JY.)
Trickflow Elbow (needed to clear the hood)- $30
ECU $100 (again, maybe more b/c of dwindling supply)
GT40 heads - $300 (value, not sure how well he did the work. I don't see new valve springs commented)
What alternator/PS pump/etc are you getting? A mustang's alternator/WP/PS pump will fit the tbird with a few tweaks (I think I had to do something with the PS reservoir or notch the bracket or something.
sell off the headers.

IMO he's making a profit for pulling everything together. Not a great one but he's not losing money.
Based on what he's NOT saying, I'd want to see a compression test OR see what he says about the bottom end work (was it a dingleberry hone or did he do more?). I know my two donor engines were pretty shot after 85-95K mi of street use.

FWIW, I paid $1500 for the bottom end engine work alone so if he actually did work to refresh the bottom end (I'd wanna see receipts on if he did anything to the bottom end), it may actually be a deal.


I just did an autotempest search of CL and didn't find to many left. It's amazing what a few years will do.

not sure if V8. call

Guys asking a princely sum. Maybe lowball
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Hey Gunn,

I'm not interested in winning lemon's. We just want a motor to last the race. Thanks for the info. that parts car in Oregon is a good deal, I'm looking into that now. I wheeled and dealed on that motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
The best carburetor is fuel injection. Keep the EFI! I actually ran my car with a carb for the first 2 races because I thought it would be simpler, but it was more trouble than anything, and it got absolutely miserable fuel mileage, which when your 302” motor is getting 6mpg, that is actually a concern in an endurance race. Swapping to EFI got us up to around 10-11mpg, so basically doubled our range, plus the long runner EFI intakes make more midrange torque, which is what you need to pull out of the corners. On my car, I ran the complete 5.0 Explorer setup, which has the HO cam, and GT40 heads and intake, and we would shift at 5500-5800rpms, and had the rev limiter set to 6000. If you are going to rebuild the engine and actually change the cam and pistons, my recommendation would be some flat top hypereutectic pistons to bump the compression up a bit, and then a B-303 cam. The E303 and B303 have similar rpm ranges, but the E has a little more lift and less duration, and the B has more duration and less lift. Both will make power up to 6000rpms no problem, but the lower lift will have better piston to valve clearance with flat top pistons, and will rev out a little higher before floating the valves if needed.
This motor has the fuel injection GT40 intake and heads. Also has the E303 cam but everything else is stock. Going to put it in this weekend woohoo. I also got the entire wire harnesses and the radiator that was stock in the 95 mustang. Also it has the regular point distributor. Not sure if I should change it electronic. I can see that some of the original harness connections on my 92 thunderbird actually looks like they might fit into some the connections from the 95 mustangs we shall see.
 

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Hey Gunn,

I'm not interested in winning lemon's. We just want a motor to last the race. Thanks for the info. that parts car in Oregon is a good deal, I'm looking into that now. I wheeled and dealed on that motor.
If you want the engine to last, shift at 5000-5500RPM and keep the engine cool.
  • Run 6qts in the 5qt fan of 20W50. One qt should be Lucas oil stabilizer. Sure, the thick stuff might sap a little HP but you'll keep **** lubricated.
  • I bought the largest Griffin radiator that will fit in the front end + SPAL electric fans to keep the engine cool.
  • https://www.jegs.com/i/Griffin+Radiators/475/1-26242-XS/10002/

If your engine gets too hot, you'll eventually develop a stuck/bent valve. Apparently this happens with all iron heads eventually. You'll notice the engine being down on power but you can finish the race. Solution are SS valves (like Ferrera).

You'll never win with a tbird on the west coast... even in Class B. Honestly, a tbird 500-750LBs is simply too heavy and burns too much fuel to be competitive (1.25-1.5hrs/tank). Your fuel cell will probably let you stretch that to 2hrs... maybe.

The ideal vehicle is 2500LBs, 200HP, and can stay out for 3+ hours. Best we ever did at sears point was 30th overall with our V6 N/A... when it rained. We drove to the front of every queue in every tight corner.... braked hard using ABS and passed cars. It was glorious. ON Sunday it dried and we were killed.

I don't remember if your car has ABS.
 

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This motor has the fuel injection GT40 intake and heads. Also has the E303 cam but everything else is stock. Going to put it in this weekend woohoo. I also got the entire wire harnesses and the radiator that was stock in the 95 mustang. Also it has the regular point distributor. Not sure if I should change it electronic. I can see that some of the original harness connections on my 92 thunderbird actually looks like they might fit into some the connections from the 95 mustangs we shall see.
You'll need a balancer, starter, and flywheel from a 1995 Ford F150 (had a 302 v8 + M5R2 transmission).
 

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I’m going to disagree with Gunn on the oil viscosity. I ran 5w30 synthetic in my Lemons car. 20w50 is way too thick, and will actually be worse for lubrication since it takes longer for the thick oil to drip back into the pan. With a stockish motor, even revving to 6000rpms, you will never have enough pressure on the bearings to overwhelm the 5w30, but you might wind up with all the oil stuck in the top end, leaving you sucking air with the pump and losing oil pressure. Running the engine over-full helps that problem, but when you aren’t revving that high, you will get windage which not only costs power and fuel mileage, but aerates the oil, which can also cause a loss of oil pressure. The solution to all these problems is to run the right weight oil, and something in the 30 weight is what you want. If you are really concerned, you can run a 0w40 or 5w40 instead of the 5w30, but 20w50 is way too thick, and with a quart of lucas especially, that is doing more harm than good.

As for the distributor, if you got the complete Mustang harness and computer, I would run that in its entirety.
 

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I’m going to disagree with Gunn on the oil viscosity. I ran 5w30 synthetic in my Lemons car. 20w50 is way too thick, and will actually be worse for lubrication since it takes longer for the thick oil to drip back into the pan. With a stockish motor, even revving to 6000rpms, you will never have enough pressure on the bearings to overwhelm the 5w30, but you might wind up with all the oil stuck in the top end, leaving you sucking air with the pump and losing oil pressure. Running the engine over-full helps that problem, but when you aren’t revving that high, you will get windage which not only costs power and fuel mileage, but aerates the oil, which can also cause a loss of oil pressure. The solution to all these problems is to run the right weight oil, and something in the 30 weight is what you want. If you are really concerned, you can run a 0w40 or 5w40 instead of the 5w30, but 20w50 is way too thick, and with a quart of lucas especially, that is doing more harm than good.

As for the distributor, if you got the complete Mustang harness and computer, I would run that in its entirety.
Mike is an ASE mechanic w/ a good amount of lemons experience; I'm just a guy who asks people what they ran and copied their recommendation.
This recommendation came from several people who ran 302s on the west coast including the builders of the model T GT.

You can always experiment.
-g
 
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