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No, I’ve noticed that too. If I want to roll the windows up, best to drop below 90. While I do generally drive fast, I don’t make a habit of hitting those types of speeds. That 157mph was done when I was I think 21 or 22, and it was also early on a Sunday morning on a straight stretch of road with nobody around. It was only on H rated tires, which I’m sure added to the sketchiness, but I will say up to about 135, these cars are extremely smooth and stable. Were it not for things like traffic or police, I would be totally comfortable cruising at 130 in an MN12.
 

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+1 I got up to around 130 once and I have no desire to exceed it or even do it again. These cars with good tires and balanced driveshaft and all things maintained feel good up to 120. Beyond that the body just seems to reject it, same observations with the moonroof, and wind noise (aircraft doors my ass!). I definitely wouldn’t want to hit those speeds with stock sized rotors.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Wow, I am very surprised at those numbers.

Ours bangs off the limiter near 4100 in 3rd. Since the jmod, the 2-3 is now almost 90 at 5700 or so. Before the j-mod, and after I got running okay, it regularly threw the 1-2 which was kind of nerve-wracking until I figured it out...we just got there before the PCM expected us..

I thought Ford had a theoretical of 132 in and the absolute mathematical top was 178 OEM gears and tires.

Man I would think the car sure feels light after 140 or so and I seriously think the angle of attack needs more nose down. Power required increases by the cube to go faster, not including drag and the aerodynamic forces at those speeds are enormous. I am unfamiliar with downforce wings/spoilers etc, and would be really worried about windows, vent holes, all that stuff.

I wish we were rich. With that information, I think we would commit and go ahead with a Rhodes Race Car kit Cage, and a Lemons type package with the essentials.

And the Big Brake kit.

Then again, 182 was no serious struggle for the Lincoln, they did it in one day.


I am hoping our MK8 DS from TBSC is enough. I know I should have it balanced before installing, I have never had a dynamic balance done so appreciate any advice.

We are hoping to find a MK 8 Housing, but have a FRPPTL carrier and plan a complete rebuild with new gears in our housing this winter.

WE will also be putting in a replacement Converter, ours actually bounces at the 2-3 at light throttle. So stretched out, it boings.

I had a bad experience years ago in a 70 Charger with a 440 out of a NJ SP Chrysler 300. The yoke or rear was wrong for the xmission or Differential in my car, so I had it welded by a place that does that. It may have been the differential or installed wrong but it was profoundly wrong at high speeds so I sold it with good warnings to the buyer.

Any advice helps. We are just a good running NPI Cougar, and we are getting the car in good shape, with all appropriate safety gear prior to any speed mods.

This is a project car with my 18YO, and we are learning all the time by doing and making some mistakes. Hopefully he and his buddies that are around learn you can have good fun with a good work ethic and some thinking, not all good things cost a fortune.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I have been convinced by you folks to not pursue the 3V option further.

You probably saved me a lot of money and aggravation, so Thanks.
RD
 

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If you have a moonroof, you want to duct tape it in place, because as XR7 mentioned, it will pop open at ~90-100 mph, and will scare the Crap out of you.

Turning off the vents helps, but it will still happen at some speed.

165mph is at my revlimiter, WFO, downhill, with a tailwind, probably.
I saw that on a GPS; the speedo isn't close to accurate at 120.
 

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Other options would be tracking down a pair of SVO heads and then you can run bigger cams. I always wondered what an extrude honed aluminum intake would do. I have chopped apart an aluminum manifold to modify it but never finished. I ran a larger 75mm tb for a long while with mild port matching. The thottle body elbow is a nasty design as it pinches down due to the bolt pattetn notches. I cutout that elbow at one point and welded the throttle flange to point straight up. Never ran on a dyno to see if there was any improvement as I was running stage 2 npi competition cams on my 95 heads and after 40k miles the coil bind fatigued the spring and broke off a valve head crumbling a piston and scraping the block. I dropped in a PI stang motor after that and also made the stock 95 throttle cable work with the PI setup using custom brackets. Picture below was the modified elbow back in like 2007. I think I still have the elbow and TB somewhere.
37442
 
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