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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Alright, I did the swap that I been planning for awhile. Funny thing is, I got kind of "forced" into it. Here's what happened (please read this thing because I have a couple of problems):

1) Lady comes home says car is screwed up.
2) I test drive, it almost leaves me stranded a couple of times.
3) I figure maybe TPS because it had been acting funny for awhile, but only occasionally.
4) I attempt to remove the old TPS screws; wouldn't budge. I use an hand impact phillips head.
5) I broke the old throttle body! What a pisser, guess I'm doing that swap I've been planning! LOL

So I installed a 2003 CV PI Intake, 2003 GT Intake Tube, 1997 Marquis Fuel Rail, 1996 Bird TB, EGR, ICV & Throttle Cable and brand new TPS, O-Rings, & PI Gaskets.

Here a picture of the (almost) finished install. I still need to put some wire loom, EGR tube, CC cable, & PI alternator bracket on, and drill and install the computer temperature sensor.


Here's the old stuff:
Intake (first $25 takes it! Notice the broken throttle body where the TPS top screw was):

Miscellaneous 1995 stuff:


MY PROBLEMS: Ok, it started fine (after fuel pumped up).
1) It won't idle over 350-400 rpm. I disconnected the ICV with it running, makes no difference (I suspect it isn't working)
2) Throttle is very NOT responsive. I hit the gas it hesitates big time then revs. Is this because it hasn't entered "closed-loop" (and won't until I get the sensor installed)? Is it because I haven't adjusted the new TPS (there really isn't a lot of adjusting to do).

Anyways, let me know what y'all think and I'll keep you posted as I finish up this project and iron out these final issues.
 

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First, get the computer ECT sensor in place. Second, you say you are using a 2003 GT intake tube, which uses an 80mm MAF sensor housing. Thus I assume you are using an 80mm MAF. Either way you look at it, you need a tune to compensate for either a non stock MAF or larger housing with the stock MAF. Third, if unplugging the IAC valve doesn't affect the way the engine idles it is indeed not working; I would clean it out really well or replace it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I DID post all the details. I just cranked down the tube to squeeze fit the stock MAF (I checked for leaks with it running and it seems ok). I know that sensor needs to be installed - the shop was closed over the holiday, so tomorrow I will bring it in, drill/tap and install it.

I have another IAC valve here (old one off another 96 Bird). I attempted bench testing it with a 12v source, it moves but when I blow through it while I attach and remove power it doesn't change the air flow at all so I guess it's no good, either, huh?

I can get a new one from Advanced tomorrow, that would take care of that variable. From my reading about bad IAC valves, they can cause the hesitation as well; is that true?

Thanks for your help and advice guys - keep 'em coming and I'll keep my details coming :D
 

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get it all buttoned up instead of potentially running in circles

when you blip the throttle, the airflow coming in through the throttle body is significantly larger than what the iac valve contributes, so it won't be responsible for throttle hesitation
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
get it all buttoned up instead of potentially running in circles

when you blip the throttle, the airflow coming in through the throttle body is significantly larger than what the iac valve contributes, so it won't be responsible for throttle hesitation
I concur; after it's all put together tomorrow, I'll deal with the IAC valve. It does sound good, but it's always sounded good. I've read several articles on this conversion before I did it, and I still ran into the issues others didn't seem to point out as what I consider the MAJOR ones.

1) EGR tube. Taking the old one from a boneyard was easy, but getting the original one off isn't happening so easily.
2) Vacuum lines. The major line going to the distribution block on the firewall I had to find a way to snake around to an open port on the new upper plenum.
3) Cruise control cable. Everyone said just break the tip off and use the existing one. Well, it doesn't hook to the bracket the same way, so I'm gonna have to monkey something up to hold it still.
4) It's just a wiring nightmare when you pull that old plastic wire holder off. The TPS wire has to be pulled back through the harness a couple of inches or it's pulled tight and of course the IAC valve needs to be extended.

Gee, it doesn't sound so bad when I write it down, lol. But it sure seemed like a PITA when I was hanging over the engine under that hood!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok, I took care of all the issues. Now it still doesn't idle and I'm getting a P0443 CEL. I'll search and track out why I'm getting that code and just buy a new IAC valve, then let y'all know how it's going!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
p0443 is coming from the EVAP system, but it could also be a huge vacuum leak in that vicinity or in the lines leading into it
Probably a vac leak. The tubes coming off the PCV valve are like goo. I touch them and my fingers get totally black. I'll replace all those in the morning, that'll probably take care of the 443. I've got more serious problems, cruise on over to my new thread and HELP! lol

http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?p=1328023
 

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Discussion Starter #11
This is WAYYYYYY Frustrating

Ok guys, here is the deal. The PI intake swap is complete, but I got a couple issues. First, I had that problem where it ran crappy, I found a clogged fuel filter, replaced it, it worked great for awhile, now it runs crappy again.

I used to be able to spin the tires from a dead stop on pavement before this swap; forget that now. It kind of acted like it's missing, like it needs a tune-up. I removed all the plugs and closed up the gaps slightly, and most of that went away. It seems to idle real good MOST of the time, but I'm on my 2nd brand new IAC valve and it sounds like a fog horn. The only CEL code I get is 443, the evap solenoid, so I put all brand new vac lines and bought a new Ford solenoid (which someone here said was about $12, try $73). I put it on, erased the code, but the light came back.

Issues:
1) P0443 that just won't go away
2) Idle circuit sucks and just won't work correctly with 2 new IAC valves that moan like cows
3) Sometimes it just runs like poo
4) Little lady says it's louder now (oh freaking well, I just wish it would run better)

I guess I can't expect a 15 year old car to run like a new one, but I would like to think after all my TLC I've been giving it, it would run as good or better than when I started!

My thoughts are (going along with recommendations here) that it only idled good when I replaced the computer for awhile, but then it went back to idling crappy so should I just try a 96/97 ECM & wiring harness? Do I need both the engine and the dash harnesses? Where can I find some info on this swap (I've been poking around here with search and different terms)? What the heck else could be wrong? If some of you MN12 gurus would go through the troubleshooting sequences you would use, I would GLADLY follow your directions perfectly!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
At this point, if it's not a computer issue (which, with the 94/95 ones you never know) I would think you have an electrical problem. I see the harness wires all out of their loom. What are all the changes you made to the wiring?
Nothing really. I extended the IAC valve wire and spliced in the 96 connector. Oh, and all those wires are in a wire loom now. It looks much neater with it finished!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
And you didn't reverse the polarity, right?
I just put red to red, and white to white. That's correct, isn't it? I will definately double check in the morning because I'm just up in arms at this point.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Update!

Ok, the problem I had where it would starve for fuel that I finally fixed by replacing a clogged fuel filter that came back after a week. Here is the deal; my boss and I took the 'Bird to town to pick up parts and it acted up twice. He said it is starving for fuel just like a few of you guys said when I described the symptoms.

Well, tomorrow I'm gonna check regulator, fuel pump, and the fuel filter again. I figure the problem went away when I changed the filter, then it came back after only a week. Maybe there is something in the tank that keeps clogging the filter, right? The fuel I dumped out of the clogged filter was BLACK, so who knows.....

I'll let y'all know what I finally figure out. Chris, I haven't had the time to go through your thorough troubleshooting steps you sent me, but those issues are minor compared to this major one I have right now; but I'll get to it. I have to go out of state for a month, so I'll go through all that when I return.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Woohoo!!!

Ok, another update (to the silent masses that I KNOW are just sitting at their keyboards waiting for news from me...LOL):

Today I did the following:

1) Unplugged the Evaporative Canister Valve to check the wiring (for my P0443 code). I had +12v on one side, but the PCM ground side was open, when I chased down the wiring, I found a break about 12" up the harness, so I got that problem fixed (it seems so weird to drive this car WITHOUT the CEL on).

2) I followed somebody's advice and stuffed a 3/8" piece of fuel line in the IAC tube to try and stop that moaning/fog horn sound it kept making. IT WORKED! That problem is finally fixed.

3) My voltage used to drop A LOT when you sat idling in gear, so I replaced the alternator pulley with an overdrive one (a GM 2.17"vs. stock Ford 2.4"). Now it charges better at a stop in gear and I kept the same stock belt!

4) The fuel problem. I ran around with the fuel pressure gauge hooked up so I could monitor it. The pressure stayed at about 33 psi at cruise, and under acceleration, went to and held 39 psi which is just about perfect. I checked the new fuel filter to see if it was clogged again, and it wasn't. Daniela said when the car has plenty of gas it doesn't act up; well, the tank said 1/8 and it did act up with me today. So I filled it up and it hasn't acted up since. Maybe a weak fuel pump? Who knows, I'm monitoring it to see what happens.

5) I data logged (my boss got his scanner fixed), and the engine coolant temp stayed at ~175* (I have a 180* thermostat in it). The IAC valve kept around 40-45%, the TPS said that closed-throttle should be 1.14v and at idle, it kept fluctuating between 1.14-1.15v, the O2 sensors kept fluctuating within normal limits, and the other readings all looked normal. So everything looks good!

6) I saw the EGR gasket laying on the intake manifold (oops). Must have fallen out while I was bolting the EGR valve on. So I put that in place (might have had a small vacuum leak there).

Anyways, that's all I have at this point. Thanks all for your help!
 

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TPS should be slightly less than 1V with no throttle...you need to loosen the screws and slightly rotate the sensor in place to achieve 0.98-0.99V.....sometimes enlarging of the screwholes in the plastic is necessary to do this

did you install the temp sensor already?
 

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Discussion Starter #19

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Ok So I'm doing the same turd different pile. Just put the deposit down on my CNC work on my 98 heads 3 angle valve job blending of the bowls, pretty much the whole works. The guy tubbed them and sprayed hot pink to check for cracks lol

Anyway discussing plans with the guy when I talked about the PI Intake that's going on. he wanted me to check into port sizes. So are the 98's and PI's (Not the plastic ones) the same? Should I order up the gaskets from MHS first?

Appreciate any Input!
 
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