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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Looking for an oil pan for a 1996-1997 Mercury Cougar/Ford Thunderbird. My current pan got hit by a piece of ice a few years ago and started rusting. Rather just replace the whole thing if possible.

Thanks
Kyle B.
 

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That's a hard enough job that I'd be fixing the rust, if it were me. :)
That said, it's easy to remove if the engine is on a stand.
On the car, not so much.
 
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1994 Cougar XR7 DOHC/5-Speed
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Yeah if it just started rusting there's a pretty good chance you can stop it in its tracks and grind the problem area smooth and repaint the spot with self etch and engine enamel. If you're going to go through the trouble of pulling the pan in car you may as well upgrade to a mark viii 6qt
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Wait a sec, does a mark viii pan fit? I saw a few used ones for sale, it had this small tank on the side of it.

The ice that hit the pan dented it pretty bad. I did self etch prime the pan and painted to black but after that hit everything started flaking off.

Planning to remove all the front suspension parts, drop the subframe and remove the pan and check the seals. Might get a new transmission too, started shifting hard, gotta look more into it. And I also have to figure out how to fix the EGR tube. I have mustang shorty headers on my 97 cougar so my egr tube is on the driver's side manifold instead of the passengers side. The tube is broken by the nut.
 

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1994 Cougar XR7 DOHC/5-Speed
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Wait a sec, does a mark viii pan fit? I saw a few used ones for sale, it had this small tank on the side of it.

The ice that hit the pan dented it pretty bad. I did self etch prime the pan and painted to black but after that hit everything started flaking off.

Planning to remove all the front suspension parts, drop the subframe and remove the pan and check the seals. Might get a new transmission too, started shifting hard, gotta look more into it. And I also have to figure out how to fix the EGR tube. I have mustang shorty headers on my 97 cougar so my egr tube is on the driver's side manifold instead of the passengers side. The tube is broken by the nut.
Yes, many of us use the Mark VIII pan, its a direct swap on any 4.6 MN12. Where's the dent? If its really bad and anywhere the center of the bottom of the pan you might need to check out the condition of the oil pickup, its pretty easy to bend them up with enough force.

I did this job for a purpose related to that, I bought an engine support from harbor freight and dropped the whole K member down, its time consuming but not too hard. You can use a Mustang EGR tube
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yes, many of us use the Mark VIII pan, its a direct swap on any 4.6 MN12. Where's the dent? If its really bad and anywhere the center of the bottom of the pan you might need to check out the condition of the oil pickup, its pretty easy to bend them up with enough force.

I did this job for a purpose related to that, I bought an engine support from harbor freight and dropped the whole K member down, its time consuming but not too hard. You can use a Mustang EGR tube
It's in the front of the pan but it's such a sharp dent, I have a leak in that area too so maybe it was enough to warp the pan gasket or something. I have access to an engine support bar that I can borrow I got a few 4 day weekends to tackle this job. How much does the K member weigh roughly? I would be doing all this work on my driveway. While were on this topic how do we know what the right position is for the Strut Rod Bar?
 

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1994 Cougar XR7 DOHC/5-Speed
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I placed mine so the feet were over the shock tower fingers, that's where the most interlocking steel is, at least when they're not rusted through.

I dropped the entire front suspension with the K member minus the shocks and UCAs so the weight is pretty substantial, but you actually have the advantage of leverage like this where you can gradually lower/raise it a little at a time moving side to side, I used chains and screwdrivers in the shock mounts and lowered/raised it in place by moving up the links. hardest part was sliding it out from under the car, but if all you're doing is replacing the oil pan you could probably leave it in place directly below and work around it(my task was more tedious)

43316
 

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Once you have that piece out, the rest is easy.:)
 

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1995 Thunderbird LX 4.6 red
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I've done the pan in these cars many times. The engine bar is a must. But after that the rest isn't too bad. I've done worse jobs. I just take out the horizontal engine mount bolts. Undo the power steering pressure line hold downs. No need to disconnect the power steering line from the pump. Remove the lower shock bolts from the control arms. Then remove the 8 E18 bolts holding up the K member. And disconnect the steering shaft from Rack and Pinion. Then you can lower it down and basically let the k member hang. After that there is plenty room to work on the pan.
 
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That doesn't sound so bad. My engine pan is caked with oil so it would not suprise me if that is leaking. I replaced that annoying leaking oil filter adapter gasket that probably threw oil around down to that spot but it still looks wet.
 

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They eventually leak from everywhere, lol. The front and rear main seals, pan, the filter adapter I've done on every car, lol.
 
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1995 Thunderbird LX 4.6 red
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They eventually leak from everywhere, lol. The front and rear main seals, pan, the filter adapter I've done on every car, lol.
That's no lie.
 

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Lazarus dumps oil out the front main seal if you stuff the brakes real hard. :)

I'm building a battery desulphator. high voltage pulses into a large battery; what could possibly go wrong? :)

My neighbors hate it when I build projects in the backyard and carefully back away. lol.
They havent forgotten the tesla coil/ lightning thing. 😇
 
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