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The Parts Guy
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Cam sensor input is required to run. Without it the ECM doesn't know when to fire. I don't know if that is the issue but whenever otherwise healthy appearing engines don't start, I always suspect the cam and crank sensors. They can be tested...
The engine will run with a bad cam position signal, it just may fire the injectors 180-degrees out of sync (it’ll run like crap when this occurs, but it will run). The engine will not start up without a good crankshaft position signal.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Ok guy think we have figured somethings out, we checked the driver side timing chain nice and tight. But the passages side wasn’t, the guides were worn, So the little slack in the chain was rubbing the crank sensor, so I’ve orderd a timing chain kit, I’ll report back as soon as I get everything installed
 

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The Parts Guy
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Ok guy think we have figured somethings out, we checked the driver side timing chain nice and tight. But the passages side wasn’t, the guides were worn, So the little slack in the chain was rubbing the crank sensor, so I’ve orderd a timing chain kit, I’ll report back as soon as I get everything installed
That doesn't compute. There is NO way the chain could contact the crank position sensor without damage on a catastrophic level. The chain sits at least 1" away from the sensor, and that is at the crank sprocket. You can't have 1" of chain slack at the sprocket.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Well I’m not completely sure what rubbed on the sensor, I bought it on amazon heck maybe it was just to long
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Now that I’m waiting for parts, I’m going to ultrasonic clean and rebuild my injectors, and dive into the power windows, I have one that goes down about 3 inches. And the other makes a lot of noise and does nothing
 

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The window that spins but does nothing needs new plastic pegs inside the motor. I've gotten them at Advance before. There should be a sticky somewhere on here. It is a tedious, but straightforward job. It's worth rebuilding both sides.

The one that goes down 3", I would start with spraying the vertical rubber track with liberal amounts of silicone spray and working the window up and down. I'm talking about actual silicone spray, not WD-40. Honda brand is supposed to be really good.

And while I admire your energy, I couldn't bring myself to work on windows until the car is running.

Hopefully you addressed the stale gas issue. The gas they sell today starts to gum up after 2 months. After 18 months, it could be bad enough to keep the car from running. Though I am sure there is a reason it was parked 18 months ago. Seafoam in the tank will dissolve the varnish, plus add a few gallons of fresh gas.

Al
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Thankyou I sure won’t buy any window parts until I hear this girl run, on a bad note. Seems to be more sludge than I expected at only 116000 miles
 

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First of all Thankyou guys for letting me join the group, I purchased a non running 1996 cougar with a 4.6. I was told it had been sitting for 12-18 months, So we replaced fuel pump,fuel filter, crank sensor and the PCM, We checked fuel pressure with gages great pressure, checked for spark, allso checked for a injectors for pulsing, everything working as it should, The car is not showing any codes, BUT she will not start. When she sits overnight and with a fresh hot battery she will almost go, but after that she will spin until you run down the battery and never try again, Please any suggestions at this point even bad ones. Thankyou
try a temp sensor. the one on the left side on the front of the intake. this is the one that sends info to the computer
mine would not start. and that is what it was. it was not telling the computer to start the spark
 

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Discussion Starter #30
I sure will check that, Allso. I told you guy wrong it wasn’t the crank sensor that was rubbed, it was the cam sensor sorry
 

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The Parts Guy
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try a temp sensor. the one on the left side on the front of the intake. this is the one that sends info to the computer
mine would not start. and that is what it was. it was not telling the computer to start the spark
A faulty ECT will effect fueling, but will not command the EEC not to fire the coils (or injectors).

I sure will check that, Allso. I told you guy wrong it wasn’t the crank sensor that was rubbed, it was the cam sensor sorry
The engine will start up without the cam sensor, but it has a 50/50 shot of firing up with the fuel injectors pulsing on the correct stroke at each startup attempt. Can you post a photo of the wiped out sensor so that we can see the extent of the damage?
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I will tonight I don’t have it with me. It allso had som plastic bits floating around off of the chain guides
 

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The Parts Guy
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Do you still plan to pull the timing cover and replace the guides? Curious to see what you find.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Ok guys sorry it’s been awhile, but I’m up and running, headed to get new exhaust today, and order new tires what sizes do most of you guys run, Once again thank you everyone for your help
 

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Congrats.

Assuming the stock rims - the 215/70-15 fills in the wheelwell the best, and speedometer reads perfect.

Al
 

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Discussion Starter #38
well the root cause was 1 of many Problems, slack timing chain, stopped up cats, bad fuel, bad fuel pump and filter, among a few other odds and ends, I don’t think the odometer is working, so I’m not really sure of the miles, Both windows need work, I’m at a point to ether sell it for whatever and cut my losses or push on.
 

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Well, it sounds like you fixed some major items. Might as well fix the windows and get some use out of it. If you did the engine work, the windows are pretty straightforward. Usually just 3 plastic pegs that break inside there.

You have to remove the speaker and work thru that hole to get at everything. Advance Auto can get the pegs. There should be a sticky around here for it.

Al
 

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