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Discussion Starter #1
I own and am currently driving a 1996 Thunderbird LX, I have owned this one for 3 years and no real issues until now, 1 month ago it was snow and ice and i went to store day before turkey day and was going back,no start engine cranks but no start Temp was 20 F I thought icing in fuel line next day it starts.
a few days ago it did it again i was not in a place where i had tools or diag equipment,came back next day starts right up again.
tonight it stalls while I was driving and will crank but not start.
it was nice that tow truck was cheap !!!.:).
the only codes that OBD-II gave is the code p1443, which has been there since I bought it and i knew was not a real issue so I ignored it,I have since replaced the Evaporative Emission Purge Flow Sensor and valve from my parts car and no more codes.

I used to work at a ford dealer as an AC / Elec Tech back When they made these cars, ( 1994 thru 98) Model years so I do have some experience with
the 96 and 97 years I just don't have access to the dealer manuals in the area I live in now and its been a long time,I don't work on cars anymore.
I could use some ideas

I also have a 1996 Cougar XR -7 ,which i am using for a parts car as the trans is broken and I was rear ended 5 years ago and frame is bent in rear so is not really worth fixing so parts are not an issue.
 

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The Parts Guy
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In the instances that the car will crank but not start, have you heard the fuel pump prime?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
do you mean cycle the ignition i have done this three cycle 3 times and nothing, and i checked the fuel pump reset , no problem.
i am thinking it is the fuel pump i checked the fuel rail and no pressure there , but it got late so i will check the relay tomorrow.
i will see if i can find a friend with a fuel pressure test kit
a lot of the dealer techs don't seem have a clue about the older cars like these so they are like T$$ts on a boar.
i appreciate your help and i will check back in a few
 

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The Parts Guy
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No, I meant just what I said. If you don't hear the pump prime at key on, and there is no pressure at the rail, it's likely to be the pump on its way out. You can confirm that the relay is operational by checking for voltage at the inertia switch for 1-2 seconds at key on.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
when i turn the key to the ON position I hear a click but i don't hear the pump running
I see what you mean i will test the inertia switch in a little bit and see.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I checked the inertia switch and it functions ok.
I checked the voltage at the inertia switch with Key on and it reads 6.56 VDC, I don't understand that I haven't seen that one before as I can recall, but I am looking at the wiring schematics and the fuel pump relay seems to be activated by the PCM at pin # 11 through the evap purge flow sensor and at pin # 80 on the other side of the relay activation.
I have had the 1443 code for as long as I have had this one 3 years now and it recently went away about a week ago, I wonder if that can have any influence on my current issues.
As it has been very cold here the last few days as well as X mas day I haven't been able to get into it like i need to , but I will test more in depth tomorrow.
It has been a long time since i have been deep into these cars like this
 

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The Parts Guy
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I'd doublecheck the voltage during the 1-2 second pulse right at key on. Provided that you're seeing ~12V at/through the inertia switch during that pulse, I'd say your next step is dropping the tank to replace the pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I agree I did get out to get the PCM from the other car to test as i have had some people say it could be the problem.

Same results as before, it really is a PITA to get the PCM out and it started to rain and sleet and couldn't get to the pump in time ,as i intended to get all at once.

I will get out in a few days thanks for the help I will post up the results.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
just jack it up a little on the right side and it should be easy to get to 2 bolts to the tank straps drop the tank down a little and remove the locking ring remove fuel lines and electrical connections.
it s been 5 years since i have done one of these but I believe that's all I need to do ???

somebody please correct me if I am wrong.
 

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The Parts Guy
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That's the gist of it, but depending on your exhaust, you may have to drop it a bit in order to lower the tank enough to remove the fuel pump. You'll also likely need to disconnect the filler and crossover hoses and loosen the bolts on the driverside tank strap.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I removed the pump from the parts car the other day and it looks to be the same stock setup on the T-bird as well.
thanks for your help i will try to do it Saturday when it warms up a bit outside.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I changed the fuel pump and all works fine thanks for all the help had the 1443 code but it wnt away after a short time and has not returned

I will be back here soon there is a lot I can learn here
 
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