2 questions!

1240 Views 46 Replies 7 Participants Last post by Noser7mil, 1 d ago

Noser7mil

Discussion Starter · 26 d ago

Hey guys I have 2 questions.

1. my motor mounts sucks and I’m not trying to pay rediculous prices for solid rubber mounts. I’ve seen on here you can do the hockey pucks, my question is how many pucks do I need to space the engine up to the same level as the stock mounts? Has anybody done this and wouldn’t mind sharing info??

2. I’m wanting to build custom upper and lower control arms, the stock bushings suck cheecks. I do have new arms and bushings about a year old. going with heims on the contact points on the body side. My question is, where can I find the ball joints needed to be able to connect the new arms to the spindle?? I’ve been looking around and can’t find anything, there plenty websites that sell the tubing and heims but I can’t find any that sells the ball joint portion needed to connect the arms to spindles.

This is the idea, just need a lead on the ball joint side. Thanks in advance!!

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Trunk Monkey

· #2 · 26 d ago

What makes you think your motor mounts suck?

There's nothing inherently wrong with the stock UCA's and LCA's. I'm still running stock control arms on my car. Stop trying to reinvent the wheel.

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Noser7mil

Discussion Starter · #3 · 26 d ago

Fluid filled mounts arent the best in terms of performance, but do a great job at controlling NVH 👍 which I don’t really care about.

You might like the mushy feeling the stock bushings give but I don’t. With heavier wheels and brakes they really aren’t doing their job controlling all that weight. Do you have any leads?

jco1385

· #4 · 26 d ago

I've got a set of solid rubber mounts on one of my parts cars. They are just like the stock fluid-filled ones, but they are solid. I got them from Rockauto way back in the day and I remember having to go back and forth a few times with them to get the solid ones. I'm not sure if you can still find them but maybe.

Actually, Rockauto still lists them but you may get fluid-filled ones when you order (hence the aforementioned back and forth). You can physically shake it and hear the fluid if so.

This is assuming you have a 3.8 car.

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Trunk Monkey

· #5 · 26 d ago

2

You could always add a torque chain like Racecougar did for that monster motor of yours. Give Rod a shout. I'm sure he could hook you up with everything you need.

https://www.tccoa.com/threads/2011-12-winter-mods-to-the-coug-56k-good-luck.139097/

If you really want to beef things up. I recommend something like this.

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Noser7mil

Discussion Starter · #6 · 26 d ago

@jco1385 thank you for the tip but I have a 97 lx with the 4.6 so a bit different. I’ve checked Rockauto and nothing only place that has solid is SCP and he’s charging too much for my blood. Which is why I’m looking for any experience with the cheapy hockey pucks

@Trunk Monkey hahaha I wonder how that would take an on-ramp at 90mph 😂

Thanks for the picture! I have seen Rods torque chain before just wasn’t sure if it’ll be a good match with these fluid mounts I have.

XR7-4.6

· #7 · 26 d ago

I have a block strap with fluid filled mounts, works great. I can see how much the powertrain moves very easily with a manual trans shifter and it barely even vibrates anymore, let alone jerk to the side at WOT like before without it.

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Noser7mil

Discussion Starter · #8 · 26 d ago

Thank you for the picture, I’m assuming it’s only one the driver side? Looks fairly easy to do, I’m pretty sure the local hardware store would have those components in stock! What size bolts are those? I feel like the stock mounts don’t really do a good job of securing the iron hunk of metal. It might be me, but I can feel that sucker bounce around on rough roads. Motor mounts are about 2 years old btw.

XR7-4.6

· #9 · 26 d ago

Driver side only, driver side mount lifts under load, passenger side compresses, no need to have one there.

The stock hardware is more than adequate, it’s all 10.9 grade, modern day Coyotes aren’t much different spec here. The turnbuckle I used is rated at 500lbs IIRC, my DOHC isn’t breaking it lol

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Noser7mil

Discussion Starter · #10 · 26 d ago

Sounds good thanks for the advice! Just gotta make sure I don’t get some weak stuff that’s gonna break after a few months.

Now all I need is a lead on those ball joints! I know it’s overkill but I really don’t like those strut rod bushings, they simply weren’t meant for any type of spirited driving. The added weight of the saleen and cobra brake most def arent helping it out.

Grog6

· #11 · 26 d ago

Ive even used the cheap ones from advanced. They'll work for a year or so.

XR7-4.6

· #12 · 26 d ago

Noser7mil said:
Sounds good thanks for the advice! Just gotta make sure I don’t get some weak stuff that’s gonna break after a few months.

Now all I need is a lead on those ball joints! I know it’s overkill but I really don’t like those strut rod bushings, they simply weren’t meant for any type of spirited driving. The added weight of the saleen and cobra brake most def arent helping it out.

Its the weight of the body with all the bracing you added that’s loading up the poor bushings 😆

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Noser7mil

Discussion Starter · #13 · 26 d ago (Edited)

@Grog6 your talking about the motor mounts or the torque chain?

@XR7-4.6 is that what it is?? I could swear I literally feel what you’re saying, the bushings are being pummeled by the uneven roads. I could just imagine the handling of the bird had more control over the arms!

Grog6

· #14 · 26 d ago

Strut rod bushings.
Talk to Racecougar about a hold down; he sold me mine.

Noser7mil

Discussion Starter · #15 · 25 d ago

@Grog6 I got the bushings from SCP and while they do their job, they simply suck and I don’t want to be replacing them yearly I need something with some more NVH haha

thanks I’ll ask em!!

Trunk Monkey

· #16 · 23 d ago

XR7-4.6 said:
I have a block strap with fluid filled mounts, works great. I can see how much the powertrain moves very easily with a manual trans shifter and it barely even vibrates anymore, let alone jerk to the side at WOT like before without it.

View attachment 53403

Nice Matt. Didn't know you have that on your car.

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Grog6

· #17 · 23 d ago

That's pretty much what I bought from Rod, but the hook part is welded closed. One end bolts to the block, the forged loop is in a hole drilled thru the k-member. It won't move, lol.

Wile E. Coyote Jr.

· #18 · 9 d ago

Heim joints will only make a difference if you are genuinely track racing your car.

Going to heims on the street is a good way to have the most uncomfortable, ungodly ride you'll ever experience. First hand experience from driving my buddies SN95 drift car.

I still have stock bushings everywhere on my car, save for the differential and the knuckles. And I throw my car into a drift at 80mph. They feel just fine.

I like the enthusiasm. But dont do that to a street car. Keep to the poly bushings from SCP if anything.

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XR7-4.6

· #19 · 9 d ago

Grog6 said:
That's pretty much what I bought from Rod, but the hook part is welded closed. One end bolts to the block, the forged loop is in a hole drilled thru the k-member. It won't move, lol.

The open hook is adequate for NA power(torque) levels, I’ve obvserved no spread in my setup since I installed it, I just checked it last weekend when I changed the oil.

Grog6

· #20 · 9 d ago

I'm actually wrong, Matt. The one bought from Rod is exactly like the one in his picture, amazingly enough,lol.

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