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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello guys, so I was wondering since I did make a post a few months back about upgrades my mission with my 1997 Thunderbird 4.6L is to get to 300 or possibly 350 HP I heard it’s possible but the engine bay could be a issue I heard on other forums. Right now my Car is bone stock all I have is a Dynamaxx race muffler before the exhaust splits in the Y and I did a original muffler delete. Probably barely got any gains from that . I need a good tune up anyway since the car is going on 186,000 and the original owner probably hadn’t done it before I aquired it.
Thanks!
 

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Whp or bhp?

Bhp is easy. Whp is more difficult.

Easiest way Ive seen it done (on a mustang) is PI heads and intake, long tube headers, properly installed comp 262 cams, and a good tune.

Ive seen a couple cars get to 280-310whp. Depending on what base line you engine gives you to begin with.

205hp is bhp. So count your whp at about 160.
Plus with it being older and if it hasnt been maintained, but that whp number at about 140.

Or you could just install a PI intake and PI cams and just 150shot the thing. Probably wont last long but itll get your number.
 

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SuperNewbie
1995 Thunderbird LX 4.6 red
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If you have the budget you can use the Trick Flow Twisted wedge heads and cams. With some headers and good exhaust that would get you there. BHP anyway. With a Tune of course.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Whp or bhp?

Bhp is easy. Whp is more difficult.

Easiest way Ive seen it done (on a mustang) is PI heads and intake, long tube headers, properly installed comp 262 cams, and a good tune.

Ive seen a couple cars get to 280-310whp. Depending on what base line you engine gives you to begin with.

205hp is bhp. So count your whp at about 160.
Plus with it being older and if it hasnt been maintained, but that whp number at about 140.

Or you could just install a PI intake and PI cams and just 150shot the thing. Probably wont last long but itll get your number.
Yeah I’ve never took the time to look at the main difference between Whp and bhp until now haha. my main mission would to make it more zippy and have a much better launch feeling as well from the line. So I’m that case would I be looking at Bhp?
 

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3.73 gears with a Trak-loc, and a nice converter will give you most of what you're looking for, even with the stock HP. That would be something you should do anyway, if you did go for 300 HP.

Al
 

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Yeah I’ve never took the time to look at the main difference between Whp and bhp until now haha. my main mission would to make it more zippy and have a much better launch feeling as well from the line. So I’m that case would I be looking at Bhp?
Bhp would be closer to 370. Have to take drivetrain loss into account. Which on auto cars is about 20%.

T6 is right too. A 2500 stall converter and 3.73 gears will make the car launch really well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
3.73 gears with a Trak-loc, and a nice converter will give you most of what you're looking for, even with the stock HP. That would be something you should do anyway, if you did go for 300 HP.

Al
Alright I’ll definitely look into that, Is that the same as a shift kit as well or are they two different things? Also would the engine be able to handle a SC or a turbo? I’ve heard these 2v love compression
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Bhp would be closer to 370. Have to take drivetrain loss into account. Which on auto cars is about 20%.

T6 is right too. A 2500 stall converter and 3.73 gears will make the car launch really well.
370 Bhp? Haha if that’s the case I’ll shoot for that goal. Will this same feeling of the launch be felt at highway speeds or just off the line?
 

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Whp or bhp?

Bhp is easy. Whp is more difficult.

Easiest way Ive seen it done (on a mustang) is PI heads and intake, long tube headers, properly installed comp 262 cams, and a good tune.

Ive seen a couple cars get to 280-310whp. Depending on what base line you engine gives you to begin with.

205hp is bhp. So count your whp at about 160.
Plus with it being older and if it hasnt been maintained, but that whp number at about 140.

Or you could just install a PI intake and PI cams and just 150shot the thing. Probably wont last long but itll get your number.
I'd recommend the TF heads and COMP 268 cams over the 262's. I've run them with my SVO and I sold them to a guy who ran them N/A. They work great in either application.
 

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Will this same feeling of the launch be felt at highway speeds or just off the line?
The feeling of 15 grand launching out of your wallet is something you'll feel going for 370 BHP. Just 2 grand for the gears and converter.

Al
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The feeling of 10 grand launching out of your wallet is something you'll feel going for 370 BHP. Just 2 grand for the gears and converter.

Al
😂😂 sheesh well we may have to see about that later down the like. However I appreciate the feedback this makes it much more clear for the goal of 300bhp
 

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Actually, I went back and changed it to 15 grand, lol! Even N/A, you're talking about cylinder heads, cams, nice intake manifold, throttle body, injectors, tune, a built trans, etc. Price some of that stuff, it adds up.

Al
 

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1995 Thunderbird LX 4.6 red
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97 Thunderbird 4.6, 98 Mark VIII LSC
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I don't think 350 RWHP with the TFS heads N/A is doable unless you're revving it out to 7000+ with a "real" intake, possibly even using E85. Revving it out that high requires better rotating assembly components. I'll believe anything after I've seen it though. :)

The TFS heads make this a lot easier than it was 10 years ago. Before they hit the market you needed stage 2-2.5 cams and well ported heads with good headers. Now all you need are these Twisted Wedge heads. Even with PI intake/cams and stock exhaust manifolds tuned for 93, you'll get darned close to 300 BHP. 300 RWHP will still require a good cam and headers. The cam and headers should go together - any N/A application requires as much fresh A/F charge pulled into the cylinders as possible and the importance of the scavenging effect of the longtubes with a good cam overlap cannot be understated.
 

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97 Thunderbird 4.6, 98 Mark VIII LSC
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Mustang chassis and MN12 chassis are different animals, remember the SN95 has a solid rear axle and with a manual transmission, the drivetrain losses are not insignificantly less than ours.
 

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97 Thunderbird 4.6, 98 Mark VIII LSC
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340 RWHP on a Stang might be 325-330 at best with our IRS, assuming the Stang has a 4R70W. So we've got a good 25-30 BHP to make up to hit 350. We also need more details on what "full bolt ons" Means - the intake choice and 3/4 or full length longtubes matters in these combos, a lot. Total driveline loss is also not a fixed percentage as some losses are fixed and not dynamic. At the end of the day every car is different - a dyno ultimately is a tuning tool and comparative measurements between different vehicles on different dynos should always be examined with a grain of salt.
 
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