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Discussion Starter #1
Finally working on the wifes car again. In hopes of making it to the shootout but there is allot to be done before it is ready. I am doubtful. This car was just so rusty and nasty I really should have just bought a better car.
For reference to more of the car see this thread
http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=86202

On to the project at hand.
The cooler lines. I really went overboard with this, but with the 9 inch converter I knew it would run hot, a good cooler setup is a must. The radiator is from radiator classic. It fit decent as far as aftermarket radiators go, I did have to cut a notch out of the fan shroud and the fan isn't fitting exactly right still. I'll get it adjusted in a few more minutes of effort.
The upper line from the radiator I just used a conventional fitting that was 3/8 inverted flare to 3/8 pipe.

On the driver side I used a 90° fitting for a very clean install here.

The cooler mounted very clean, I would have liked to had it just a bit higher because it would have made the bends easier but I just cut and reflared the lines to get it right. I wanted the lines at or above the lowest point of the car.

The passenger side went pretty smooth as well. I also used a single bubble flare for this end to hold the transmission grade hose. I chose to split the system with transmission grade hose because I am not running solid mounts. My concern was the repeated twisting would fatigue the lines and cause a rupture.
Here is the junction point.

Last but not least the lines at the transmission.

Definately not the lazy way to do transmission lines. It takes some effort to get this right and if you haven't done it many times you better have some spare material. I pulled this off without damaging any lines, but on a job like this that is a bit much to ask for. Guaranteed if I had someone watching over my shoulder I would have kinked one.
Alan
 

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Man, that looks great!

I've thought about upgrading the lines; about the time I noticed there are reducers on both ends, lol.

I can't believe how much rust difference there is in a few hundred miles... I hope to keep mine forever. (cross fingers)

A question tho; why the right angle out of the upper fitting? Hobson's choice, or ??

(Hobson's Choice means it's easy and available, lol.)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The upper fitting is a 90 to make extra clearance to the exhaust. That one sticks out the farthest. I have not yet found a way to make a bend tighter than about 3 inches without kinking the line. The factory had the bend directly after the fitting. I cannot even start the bend there. I have to bend the line first, calculate distance for my flaring tool and cut it off the perfect amount. If you look at the lines on the cooler they are as tight as I can get the bend to the fitting.
Alan
 

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Cool! That's why I asked; it looked like a lot of work not to have a reason. :)
 

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I chose to split the system with transmission grade hose because I am not running solid mounts. My concern was the repeated twisting would fatigue the lines and cause a rupture.
Good call; this is another one of those little things that most people don't think about until after something breaks. :thumbsup:

Can't stress the quality flarings enough either.
 

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Also, be careful with that hoseclamp tieing the 2 lines together, the lines will rub a bit and it could wear through in a period of time! You can come to my mothers house, the lines on her 02 ZX2 have completely rusted through. Needless to say the car just sits for now untill I get the nerve to do it! Nice install though!!
 

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Also, be careful with that hoseclamp tieing the 2 lines together, the lines will rub a bit and it could wear through in a period of time! You can come to my mothers house, the lines on her 02 ZX2 have completely rusted through. Needless to say the car just sits for now untill I get the nerve to do it! Nice install though!!
Hes a trans guy I think he would know these kinda things lol
 

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I lost a ratchet one day, and had a customer come in with a noise complaint a week later, with my ratchet still on the head of a bolt.

:rolleyes:

At least I got my ratchet back, lol. :)

(Not an engine mech; I worked on stereo equipment...)
 

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DirtyD0g, how much line did you use? I was looking at line on summit, and while I'm sure a 20 foot roll will work, that seems excessive... :)

I'm going to hard line in a cooler at the same time; it shouldn't take more that three feet for it.

Also, any reason Not to use stainless?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I don't know exactly how much line I used, I buy it in the 50 ft rolls locally at most decent parts stores. I use a local place called Smyth automotive. A 50 foot roll comes with fittings and is about $45. If you want to run standard steel I suggest just going and getting about 4 6 foot sticks of the coated stuff from autozone or whatever is local to you. Unless you do lines often you won't need a 50 foot roll.
Stainless has only one drawback, cost. It is expensive. Be careful buying stainless as well. There are many different wall thickness variations. You have to get line that can be flared. DO not try to flare stainless without the flaring tool I mentioned either. If you don't have that flaring tool the stick from autozone come preflared, so you can cut the lines to length and use the already flared ends, meaning you only have to make a simple bubble flare, which you really can't screw up.
Alan
 
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