I assume the throttle was wide open?
There is no intake. You have to remove the intake to get to the cylinders on the left side.I assume the throttle was wide open?
Correct, the tests are not done correctly, I know that. And as mentioned, I was doing this alone and not able to watch the meter. Also mentioned, my next test will be using the remote starter so I can watch the pressure rise in the meter. As for a throttle, there is no throttle! You have to remove the whole upper intake to access the spark plugs. What I did realize is that I had taped over the lower intake to keep anything from falling in and that could effect the pressure coming into the cylinder. I will remove the tape to expose the lower intake.When doing a compression check, the actual numbers are far less important than consistency across the numbers. 120-130 is a little low, but it’s enough to get combustion, so I wouldn’t be too concerned about that. What does concern me is that there is significant variation not only between different cylinders, but between the same cylinders on the different tests. That leads me to believe the test was not done properly. The throttle needs to be held wide open the whole time it is cranking. Every cylinder should be cranked until the pressure stops rising. The car should ideally be on a battery charger, or at the very least make sure the battery is fully charged to eliminate variations in cranking speed. Given such differences between the numbers on the different tests, I would re-do it a 3rd time. If you don’t have a second person to do the test with, just crank it an extra long time to make sure you have gotten the highest possible number. Once that is done, look at the numbers and ideally you want no more than 10-15psi difference between the highest and lowest readings.
You are correct, but actually, I was replacing the injectors with new ones, which requires the upper intake to be removed.You absolutely do not need to remove the upper intake to do spark plugs on a 3.8NA, .....
Got myself covered on that. Got the full kit, compressor, full o ring set (more than i will ever need), A/C Receiver Drier / Accumulator, orifice tube, new suction and lines and will have a shop do the re-vac. Did this on my Town Car, but only replaced the compressor and accumulator. Thanks for the reminder note though, much appreciated.You want to use new o-rings, the old ones are dissolving by now. The new ones are green and blue, one for supply side, and one for the intake side. New ones, filters, and all can be found on ebay