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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I’ve started working on getting my front shocks together for my suspension rebuild. I went with these $14 API shocks from rockauto. They are listed as wholesaler close out.





I used a pipe cutter to cut them down. Once I cleaned up the edges the bilstein inserts slid right in. There’s no need to machine down the inserts or use a press on these.

While the bottom isn’t crimped like S4gunn talked about and doesn’t need to be pressed flat as, I believe, MaddMartigan did, there is still an inner lip that prevents the insert from going all the way down. I’m currently trying to decide if I want to try to flatten this down more to reach more threads or make an insert like S4gunn did in his thread.





I’ve also been working on modifying the upper mounts, but I’m currently still trying to remove rubber.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I need to order a set while they're still around. It's just hard to justify, with my current parts stash. :)
jda95bird, nice tip on donor shock bodies.
I was really happy that they worked out without a lot of extra work.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So, has anyone tried to use the 3000gt strut upper mounts as opposed to trying to modify thunderbird mounts? I was thinking about ordering one to check it out. Just from looking at pics on rockauto the bolt holes won’t align, but I feel like it would be easier to drill new bolt holes instead of everything involved with the stock ones.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I bought the KYB mounts. It was the only brand rockauto had in stock at the time. After removing the rubber the opening is around 1 3/4”. This is the same as the OEM mounts according to the MaddMartigans posts. One of the aftermarket ones were 1 1/2” but the brand wasn’t specified. S4gunn’s thread says that the holes ranged from 0.83 to 1.25 on the ones they tried out.

Removing all of this rubber is a pain in the ass. I’ll be working on this for a while inbetween my other 50 projects.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I don’t have any pics. I’m doing the same thing MaddMartigan and S4gunn did with the spherical bearings. I’m talking about the opening once you remove the center tube and all of the rubber around it.

Here is a picture from S4gunn’s thread with the rubber removed and the bearing housing in its place. That opening should be around 1.25” I believe.
 
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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Thanks for the pictures of other mounts. I was able to get all of the rubber removed from mine today. Hopefully I can have everything welded this week. I used a drill with a bit to get most of the rubber out around the center insert. Once it was sufficiently holy I put it in the press and pushed it out. I then used a small pistol grip hack saw to remove large pieces of rubber. After that I found a variety of wire brush attachments for the drill worked best to clean it to the metal.

 
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