I was really happy that they worked out without a lot of extra work.I need to order a set while they're still around. It's just hard to justify, with my current parts stash.
jda95bird, nice tip on donor shock bodies.
3000GT front shock build
I’ve started working on getting my front shocks together for my suspension rebuild. I went with these $14 API shocks from rockauto. They are listed as wholesaler close out.
![]()
![]()
I used a pipe cutter to cut them down. Once I cleaned up the edges the bilstein inserts slid right in. There’s no need to machine down the inserts or use a press on these.
While the bottom isn’t crimped like S4gunn talked about and doesn’t need to be pressed flat as, I believe, MaddMartigan did, there is still an inner lip that prevents the insert from going all the way down. I’m currently trying to decide if I want to try to flatten this down more to reach more threads or make an insert like S4gunn did in his thread.
![]()
![]()
I’ve also been working on modifying the upper mounts, but I’m currently still trying to remove rubber.
I used a pipe cutter to cut them down. Once I cleaned up the edges the bilstein inserts slid right in. There’s no need to machine down the inserts or use a press on these.
While the bottom isn’t crimped like S4gunn talked about and doesn’t need to be pressed flat as, I believe, MaddMartigan did, there is still an inner lip that prevents the insert from going all the way down. I’m currently trying to decide if I want to try to flatten this down more to reach more threads or make an insert like S4gunn did in his thread.
I’ve also been working on modifying the upper mounts, but I’m currently still trying to remove rubber.
1 - 20 of 80 Posts
I don’t have any pics. I’m doing the same thing MaddMartigan and S4gunn did with the spherical bearings. I’m talking about the opening once you remove the center tube and all of the rubber around it.
Here is a picture from S4gunn’s thread with the rubber removed and the bearing housing in its place. That opening should be around 1.25” I believe.
![]()
Here is a picture from S4gunn’s thread with the rubber removed and the bearing housing in its place. That opening should be around 1.25” I believe.
Thanks for the pictures of other mounts. I was able to get all of the rubber removed from mine today. Hopefully I can have everything welded this week. I used a drill with a bit to get most of the rubber out around the center insert. Once it was sufficiently holy I put it in the press and pushed it out. I then used a small pistol grip hack saw to remove large pieces of rubber. After that I found a variety of wire brush attachments for the drill worked best to clean it to the metal.
![]()
Life has gotten in the way and I haven’t had much time to work on these. I did make some nut sleeves from stainless steel M14 bolts. I had a friend with a lathe drill the holes for me and then I tapped them. For anyone unfamiliar with metric, you subtract the pitch from the bolt size to determine what size hole to drill. The shocks are M10x1 so you need a 9mm hole. I decided to put some stainless steel M14 washers inside the housing to take up the empty space where the shock can’t fit all the way down. I glued the washers together just to make it easier to install everything. On the outside I plan to use one washer and a split lock washer. I do need to check and see how much clearance there is between the bottom of the shock and the lower control arm so it doesn’t rub when installed.
![]()
![]()
Finally getting somewhere. I had a coworker weld everything up for me. I dremeled out a large washer to fit over the bearing housing and those were welded together.
![]()
This was then put through the bottom of the shock mount and welded into place.
![]()
Then another washer was welded over the top for extra support.
![]()
Now I just need to slap a coat of paint on them.
This was then put through the bottom of the shock mount and welded into place.
Then another washer was welded over the top for extra support.
Now I just need to slap a coat of paint on them.
I’ve got some freshly painted donor shocks.
![]()
Now on to the next problem. I made it to the junkyard this morning to pick up the washers. As the car still had tires on, it was a somewhat anticlimactic removal. My shock mounts have a washer welded to the top. This leaves just enough room for the nut. Adding the curved washer will take up most of that room. My options are removing the welded on washer which will still leave it a hair short of the nut going all the way on. Or making another nut sleeve. The shock washer still has to be drilled/ground out larger to fit on the bilstein shock anyway. I believe the threaded part is M14 threads. I would want the nut sleeve to be at least 18mm. The hole on the shock washer is 12.5mm. It would need to be larger than 18mm for the play from the bearing. Around 20-22 mm, I guess. What does everyone else think? I like the idea of the nut sleeve for the extra thread coverage.
![]()
![]()
Now on to the next problem. I made it to the junkyard this morning to pick up the washers. As the car still had tires on, it was a somewhat anticlimactic removal. My shock mounts have a washer welded to the top. This leaves just enough room for the nut. Adding the curved washer will take up most of that room. My options are removing the welded on washer which will still leave it a hair short of the nut going all the way on. Or making another nut sleeve. The shock washer still has to be drilled/ground out larger to fit on the bilstein shock anyway. I believe the threaded part is M14 threads. I would want the nut sleeve to be at least 18mm. The hole on the shock washer is 12.5mm. It would need to be larger than 18mm for the play from the bearing. Around 20-22 mm, I guess. What does everyone else think? I like the idea of the nut sleeve for the extra thread coverage.
1 - 20 of 80 Posts
