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Discussion Starter #1
so my dad brought up this idea last night, he has a almost complete 351W sittin in his garage. so he said why not swap it in? i wouldnt mind going carburated, but how hard would it be to make the swap? what about tranny?
 

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you need to goto SCCOA and then the Super Coupe Club Of Ontaio forums and find a guy named 351turbo. He has an early 90's Super Coupe with a turbo charged 351 in it and it looks amazing!

Jake
 

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I have the early part of my swap on the web. Here it is:

http://www.qsl.net/wd4ngb/birdwork.htm

I damaged my camera, so no pictures taken recently. I am just getting started on this Winters project, and have it all pulled out again. So far changed the cam and a few other things inside. I put a Canton 7 quart oil pan on, which required modifying the K member for clearence of the rear part of the deeper pan. Didn't want a kick out pan, since it will cause problems for LT headers.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
what were the hard parts of the swap? i didnt get to look at all the pics(my 56K..well actually about 26K sucks) but what about fabricating anything? what transmission did you use? would i be able to swap it to a 5 speed? or keep the auto?
 

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The main things are you need to either use T bird front cover and accesories, or do something about the 1 inch longer standard 351 parts. Since mine is not a daily driver, I shifted the larger radiator forward where the A/C condensor was.
A taller hood will be needed. You can use old carb linkage, or Lokar kits. A 5 speed would be very easy to adapt to it if you want one. It would also allow you to use some very good headers that will not fit with a AOD with out mods.

With no A/C, no smog pump, and aluminum heads, and light weight brackets, the car is much lighter in the front than with the 5.0 The car sits as high in the front , if not heigher, than before it was lowered.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
but it mostly just bolted in? i dont mind no a/c, and i dont have to pass emissions(small town) and it will be a daily driver
 

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Forgot one thing, the oil pan. Need to modify it to clear the K member. A mustang 351 swap pan or late model 351 from a CV will fit with a small amount of work. This is what I used last year. I am now putting a 7 qt, that requires some reworking of the LK member. It can be done many ways, but
it is a little more than bolt in Going from a EFI 5.0 to a EFI 351 would be the closest to bolt in.
 

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The stock 93 Tbird 5.0 mounts bolt up fine. You can modify them as I did, and convert them to solid steel ones.

Take the center pieces out, bent the retaing tabs in to separate them. Remove the bladders. Cut a round piece to replicate the bottom with out the rubber piece. Put them back together with new bolts secured at the top and bottom.

There will not be anything holding the top and bottom halves of the round steel pieces now. Have the mounts bolted to the K member, and the round steel parts sitting on the lower piece. With no headers on the engine, and the new oil pan in place, lower the engine till its as low as it will go while allowing the 2 round sections to go together. It should be resting on the K member. If it is as low as it will go, and all else is OK, raise it to give 1/4 inch clearance at the closet spot. Now mark how far up inside the top round piece , the bottom one is. Pull the engine out and cut and weld the 2 round halves together at the point that it was marked at.

This will give you solid steel mounts, but not good for a daily driver. If its not for mainly track use, use them at stock height or use the older mn12 mounts that did not have the liquid filled pieces completely enclosed. These can be taken apart, half of the liquid filled section removed, and put back together to allow the engine to sit lower if desired.

The Canton 15-670 seems to give the best fit for the K member by having a minimum amount of space between the crank and pan bottom in the center section. This will allow it to sit lower. The rear sump of a 7 quart will hit the K member at the front of the sump. Its all a trade off. If you use a Ford 5 qt pan, you will have less capacity, and have to do some fairly in-depth cutting in the mid section. If you use the Canton 15-690 or the 15-694 that have the side kick outs, you will not have to notch the rear of the K member, but will have problems routing headers past them.
 

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JB351:
I ran mine once, but was with stock fuel lines and the 5.0 headers. Car was VERY strong at low rpms, but fuel starved and exhaust choked at high rpms. It turned 12.81, but should be much lower in the Spring with #8 and #6 fuel lines, some kind of headers, and a new cam. I am in the middle of the Winter upgrade already. Did the new cam, new 7 qrt Canton oil pan, a second trans cooler so far. The cam is a custom one from Ed Curtis. They keep the exact numbers to them selves, but in the 245/255 duration, and 590/600 lift area on 110 lobe center. With my 3500 stall speed, and the Wide torque range of this, he said it will do great, and peak in the 6200 rpm range which is as high as I wish to twist this. He said I should add a large vacuum canister to it with the amount of overlap it has now.

My next area to work on is the front suspension. I have Ebach springs on it, but with all the weight I removed from the front with the aluminum heads, no a/c, no air pump, ultra light weight alt and p/s brackets, u/d pulleys, no sway bar, the front now sits a tad higher than before the Eibachs. I want to get some sort of weight transfer springs made for it, and a set of front shocks revalved to 90/10. Maybe it will be ready in the Spring :)
 
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