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Discussion Starter #1
Well, I just got back from a Lightning club dyno day and I got some runs in...



Needless to say, I am VERY happy and excited. Unfortunately, last night I changed my plugs and found that my #4 cylinder plug was fouled with oil... I think there is something amiss there, and I will need to rebuild to fix it. The engine runs fine besides that.

Next, I will need to go to the track and run those mid 15s!!!!

PJ
 

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Discussion Starter #3
To answer your question honestly, I don't know. Since I could not get the torque converter locked-up, I let the dyno guys do it their way... Basically, they rolled into second, then pegged it, shifted into 3rd (D) at redline, and started the pull. The graph only shows what goes on after the 2-3 shift... The torque converter should be locked-up at that point, so it's the only part of the graph that would be accurate had I been provided with readouts for lower RPMs.

The other down-side to this is that I didn't get to play with my IMRCs at all. Actually, I now have my doubts regarding the way they operate... I have a feeling they are opening even though my vacuum solenoid is closed... I think it doesn't provide a tight-enough seal to prevent vacuum from reaching the actuators... I will experiment later to see what's going on.

Never the less, I am really happy with my numbers.

PJ
 

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DAMN you :)
You have 21hp and 22rwtq on me............. with a PI stall converter you would be into the high 14's with traction, I say you have an easy 15.5 right now. Fastest NA, not yet. We had a guy that came around once in a blue moon with a Supersix stage 3 everything and a Stall converter and he posted a 14.98 with his car, but with a converter I think you have that beat.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Before I get a stall converter, I think I need to replace my differential and track-lock. As it is, without a stall converter, I can light-up (one) tire from a stop-- no power breaking. So, the diff goes in first... Then I guess I will go to the track.

PJ
 

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thats basically a stock motor right? p/p heads and perhaps a custom sheetmetal upper intake soon? i dont see that truck intake making as much power as you could with a shorter runner intake...

and why doesnt the mustang intake work? i only looks like the egr would interfere with the distributor...you dont need that....
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I don't need what, the distributor? The engine is stock... the only differences is a custom cold-air intake setup, 80mm LMAF, and the distributor ignition instead of the DIS setup. The Mustang intake won't clear the distributor, and my EGR is already gone. I like truck intake because of these clearance issue and because I've heard that the longer runners will be more beneficial under boosted applications.

This guy I met at the meet is trying to convince me to go single-turbo and use make a sheetmetal intake. He also thinks that if I use a large enough postive displacement blower, that I could have good boost up top without worrying about low-rpm damage.

There are a lot of things to think about.

PJ
 

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no you dont the egr...lol...of course you need the distributor...i dont know about the 99+ mustang intake...i guess i just gotta look at in person

and very nice numbers for a basically stock 3.8 motor...thats probably even with if not more than a stock 5.0 HO motor
 

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Does that 4.2 rev high enough to effectively use a turbo?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I don't see why not. Turbo diesels have low redlines, don't they?

PJ
 

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Yeah, but how much power does one actually get from a turbo diesel?
 

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Good numbers.....You've still got the gears and Alum rear to install also???
 

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Discussion Starter #16
What's up, Scoupe? Yeah, the gears are not in yet, but I think I am gonna sell that aluminum diff with the 4.10 gears and buy a built motorsport 3.73 diff. Rancher feels like the smarter side of my v6 performance world, and 4.10s plus the torque of forced induction just seems like overkill.

Thanks, J-Rob.

PJ
 

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is that a 4:10 tlok aluminum rear? how much would you sell it for?
 

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