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Discussion Starter #1
when installing kooks 3/4 length headers is there any clearance issues? as far as starter and engine bay?
 

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Chapter Director Coordinator
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they fit pretty tight

not recommended to do in car
 

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drop the k....

or

disconnect the motor mounts and lift the motor about 2 inches and fight the whole time

or

pull the heads... connect them with stage 8 locking fasteners.... be done reinstall heads... enjoy

there really is no easy way
 

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Refrigerator Raider Hater
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I put mine on while the engine was out. If I didn't have a mark 8 oil pan it would have gone in like butter.

Dropping the K member is probably the easiest way.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
well i was thinking about pulling the motor again. when i do the pi swap or i was wondering when doing the pi swap if just putting them on with the motor still in. just pulling heads. but i think it would be easier to pull motor and do it that way. while i build the motor up more than what it is .
 

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Chapter Director Coordinator
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if you are gonna do a pi motor swap, then just wait and do it all at once
 

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Discussion Starter #7
no i just gonna swap out the heads and put 234/238 duration comp cams and trickflow intake. the bottom end of my motor is already built up. but i think it would be easier to just pull the motor again and do the swap on the cherry picker. then put it back in. you think that would be the easiest?
 

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Fry Rice Specialist
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instead of cherry picker put it on an engine stand so when you retorque the head the engine won't swing everywhere to make your life easier and get enough leverage for accurrate torque spec.
 

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really, it's only another half step..
 

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no i just gonna swap out the heads and put 234/238 duration comp cams and trickflow intake. the bottom end of my motor is already built up. but i think it would be easier to just pull the motor again and do the swap on the cherry picker. then put it back in. you think that would be the easiest?

If your pulling the heads.... why bother with the picker???? Just pull the heads, bolt up the cams and headers on a bench, and reinstall.... no messing with the motor mounts or tranny bolts, or flex plate. Just be sure to get a bag of rubber bands for the head to block bolts on top of your cylinder head swap kit from ford, and stage 8 locking washers for the headers. This is one of those things to do right the first time.
 

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Baddest N/A NPI in Canada
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If your pulling the heads.... why bother with the picker???? Just pull the heads, bolt up the cams and headers on a bench, and reinstall.... no messing with the motor mounts or tranny bolts, or flex plate. Just be sure to get a bag of rubber bands for the head to block bolts on top of your cylinder head swap kit from ford, and stage 8 locking washers for the headers. This is one of those things to do right the first time.
When re-installing the heads, do not just bolt everything up and go. I would degree the cams to see that they are timed where they are supposed to be.
 

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When re-installing the heads, do not just bolt everything up and go. I would degree the cams to see that they are timed where they are supposed to be.
I always seem to forget to recommend that... but yes you must degree your cams
 

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by degreeing your cams what do you mean? i had a broken intake valve spring on my stock heads. i picked up some stock 96 style heads and had them rebuilt, im just about to reinstall in the car. those heads should be a direct swap correct? suggestions......
 

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by degreeing your cams what do you mean? i had a broken intake valve spring on my stock heads. i picked up some stock 96 style heads and had them rebuilt, im just about to reinstall in the car. those heads should be a direct swap correct? suggestions......
the cams dont need to be degreed.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
most ppl only degrees the cams for full on race motors, for the most accurate cam timing, like great obucina said u dont need to degree them, i didn't degree mine when i rebuilt the motor and it run perfectly fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
just get the marks lined up follow the chiltons, or hayes manual and u'll be fine, degree consist of dial indicator with 4 inch extention, screw inpost for dial indicator, positive stop tool solid vavle adjuster, timing wheel, pointer, camshaft lock tool, racker arm installation tool. you dont need this to put your 4.6 in time. it's nice to have your cams degreed while doing intall but it's not required.
 

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most ppl only degrees the cams for full on race motors, for the most accurate cam timing, like great obucina said u dont need to degree them, i didn't degree mine when i rebuilt the motor and it run perfectly fine.
degreeing a set of cams SHOULD be done on any aftermarket camshaft...period.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
i've know guy's that didn't degrees theres with aftermarket and didn't have any problems they weren't as high as lift as most cams are, i know i'm going to degree mine when i do my pi head swap
 

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i've know guy's that didn't degrees theres with aftermarket and didn't have any problems they weren't as high as lift as most cams are, i know i'm going to degree mine when i do my pi head swap
i dont care what others fail to do, its their lost power. I also dont care what requires less effort...lift doesnt matter, if its an aftermarket grind, degree it.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
i know what u mean, i'm just saying what i've seen, they didn't want to spend the extra money to have the shop do it or spend the time to do it them selfs, when i put mine in i'm gonna do it, cause ever little bit of power helps. i didn't degree mine cause there stock cams.
 
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