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Discussion Starter #1
After driving around for months with that orange glow of the check engine light on, me and the NC DMV have decided to try and find out why its on. Inspection time again and it's over due, BAD.. like in MAY!!


the only thing that seems to be wrong is that when I'm in Park and the car's idling, it will suddenly drop in RPMs (from 800-850 when cold to 500 or less) and start bouncing the tach. Then, if you put it in Drive and go.. it hesitates all the way up to 3K and shifts hard (chip and shift kit) then back to hesitation and misfiring. the only way to make it stop seems to be to floor it until it passes 3K and then it just takes off like it used to when it ran 15.5....

THings that I have changed recently...

IAC, Plug wires (2 sets), plugs, MAF

any help would be great.... after some research I've been entertaining the idea of the idler pulley??? DOn't know... any help would be great.

BiLLNC
 

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just grab a OBD2 Code scanner, and plug it into the port found on the passanger side of the car, right under the glovebox.

That will tell you what the check engine light is all about, and you can make the repair.

If you have an AutoZone parts store they will scan your car for free, just tell them you have an obd2 equipped car. Then they will be glad to sell you the parts you need to fix it.

Post the code on here and someone will tell you how to fix it.

If you don't have an obd2 scanner, you can get one pretty cheap. This snap on unit below is like 500 bucks, but there are decent scanners for 50-75 bucks now that work fine.

Justin
 

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Just a suggestion, check your mass air flow sensor. I had the same kind of problem on my 94. The guys at the local shop told me to take off my k&n cone filter and put the stock one back on. Yeah right!!!!!!!!! If you have a volt meter, you can check the 4 wires that run into the maf plug. You can check these figures out somewhere on this site. I don't remember where though. At idle a&b should read 10.5 volts, and cad should read .34-1.96 volts. hope that helps.
 

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Like Justin said, Autozones in our area will scan the codes for free. If you aren't doing anything tomorrow night we will be heading to Rockingham and can give your car a through checking over afterwards at the nearby garage. :)

Have you tried resetting the computer after making those changes?

Also, what color is your car, in a strange day I noticed three t-birds with at least an exhaust upgrade today in the Raleigh area.
 

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hehe, throw some more parts at it before you get the codes checked, usually after you spend 10x as much money as you should have, the code reader (ie get the codes read at autozone for free) will tell you whats wrong in about 10 seconds.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hi SHadow,

WE actually do know each other, you followed me back to Raleigh after we left Rob's house one nite (long time ago).. You got those 120W headlights right??? I'm better known as BK, I moved to ATL a few months back but I'm back now....

I'm going to ROckingham tomorrow anyway.... last week got rained out and they said my ticket will be honored next (this) week...

My car is REd and has the 3in chrome tips out back.. it's loud as hell and just as slow.

I live in the Six Forks / Lynn Road area in N. Raleigh...

i'm not racing my car, or even bringing it cause it's junk. Me and my bro will be in his White 84 corvette but neither of us are racing.. just watching. There's just too much wrong with my ride and I'm waaayyy too poor.

Autozone's scanner said Lean on Bank 2.... apparently my O2's I failed to mention that I also changed out the front 02 on each side a while back...

Do you guys think I need to change the last two or what?? Car runs OK?? after a nite of running hard with my Bro's Corvette, I noticed it hits a brick wall around 3500 or soo. Or atleast stops pulling as hard.

Thanks again for all the responses.

BK

P.S. I saw Rob at the track last Friday with his 14.98 auto mustang. Still using 3 ice bags.
 

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Ah yeah, the new name threw me off. They were 80w but I'm back to normal wattage now. lol. Now that I know who you are I don't have to ask the obvious questions. :D

When Robert, Wayne (don't know if you've met him) and I swapped out my Tranny in Roberts new garage (mmmm lift) we didn't get the rear passenger o2 sensor all the way in. Yes it caused a CEL and yes it caused me to go into a limp-home mode so I would definately replace those rear o2's

The ones I saw to day was a green 96-97 with what looked like flows on 440 and a black 94-95 with Straight pipes in Garner. I was rather suprised to see another modded t-bird on the road, they aren't all that common in this area. :)

I guess I'll see you tomorrow night!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I met Wayne I think... White 96 sport right??

I think I am gonna be there with my car especially if Rob doesn't mind taking a look-see at my ride.. I hope he brings his scan tool. but I'm not sure if I feel like fighting the traffic on the way out of town... I'll be leaving around 5:45 so I may run into you.... just look for an older white corvette with a HUGE wing on the back and a 260lbs Tattooed Marine behind the wheel... I should be in FRONT of him

See ya tomorrow.

BK
 

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chrisbudl1 said:
Just a suggestion, check your mass air flow sensor. I had the same kind of problem on my 94. The guys at the local shop told me to take off my k&n cone filter and put the stock one back on. Yeah right!!!!!!!!! If you have a volt meter, you can check the 4 wires that run into the maf plug. You can check these figures out somewhere on this site. I don't remember where though. At idle a&b should read 10.5 volts, and cad should read .34-1.96 volts. hope that helps.
He said he replaced the MAF. So it probably isnt that. But sometimes MAFs do through codes due to K&N type of filters. So the guy at the shop does know what he is talking about. Except you dont have to change it, just clean the MAF sensors. That is so because the K&N uses a oil that can get on the sensors and make them through codes. So switching back to stock would make it not put any more oil on the sensors and maybe stop it. But just cleaning them work too. You can check the intake tech articles for how to do that. But I dont think BiLLNC needs to do that since his was replaced and still has the problem. I think his best bet is to go to a autozone to try to get some codes read for free. Then go from there.
 

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For the love of god there must be a way to get rid of this MAF. I hate this thing. Piece of dirt/grime get's within 200 miles of a MAf and they strat throwing codes, of make your car run funny. I will personnally pay a person, in Canadian beer and strip club visits, if they can come up with a viable fix for the MAF problems. Since I have a 4.6 in the garage still in a car, I cleaned it the other day, and the car ran alot better. Also while I was there I canged out the hex screws or whatever they are to the same one with a phillps head on them. Now if I could only get one in a robertson head, then I would be happy.
 

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BiLLNC said:
I met Wayne I think... White 96 sport right??

I think I am gonna be there with my car especially if Rob doesn't mind taking a look-see at my ride.. I hope he brings his scan tool. but I'm not sure if I feel like fighting the traffic on the way out of town... I'll be leaving around 5:45 so I may run into you.... just look for an older white corvette with a HUGE wing on the back and a 260lbs Tattooed Marine behind the wheel... I should be in FRONT of him

See ya tomorrow.

BK
Nah that's Richard. Wayne is one of Rob's friends and drives a green 95. You know how Rob is, if we don't bring him a broken one he'll break one of ours so that won't be a problem.

I'm going to try to get out of work as early as possible, and I know what you mean about traffic, that US1/I440/I40 juncture sucks on a friday.
 

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ShadowDragon said:


Nah that's Richard. Wayne is one of Rob's friends and drives a green 95. You know how Rob is, if we don't bring him a broken one he'll break one of ours so that won't be a problem.

Yea, let's just hope it isnt mine this time!! stupid plastic intake

plastic intake + Low RPMS + Nitrous = BOOM
 
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