yes, yes, the short range plan is to address the long block. forged piston will be acoming, just as soon as the block is checked and cook. the engine came out of a '98 crown vic p71 with 149k miles, so i'll have to see what machinist say about hte bore. the mains and rods where in great shape. we'll see what comes of tomorrow.
tipical machinist will tell u to go a head and bore it . 020 over . to put the cylinder walls back in round shape. i know this isn't much, but after these motors get some miles on them i have notice the cylinder wall starts to form a egg shape type. mine was like that when i built my motor.
I am curious to know what those rods weigh. Do you have an accurate scale that you can weigh one on? Something like a postal scale or better that weighs in kilograms and has a little finer resolution would be great.
I have been wondering about those rods for a while now and have been considering using them on some jobs since I have gotten into a lot more engine work here recently. I just bought a set of the forged I beam style that you can get on ebay so that I could check them out and those weigh about .696kg each.
well a balance job can cost anywhere from 120- 300. around my area. my dad usually charges in this range depending on motor. my rods 602- 606 grams. most places u will get rods that weigh just a little more. so i got all my rods to 602 grams. my pistons where 293 grams with pin. when u get ur pistons try and get the plasma moly rings for it. low drag, high tensle strength and seal very well
The flexplate and balancer are neutral, so the crank, rods and pistons are balanced. The weights are matched for the pistons and rods and the crank is balanced. Modifying the flexplate or balancer is a bad idea because it makes it one of a kind, and if you ever need to replace either, the modifications must be made to the new components.
agreed with master. process is by adding or removing weight from the crankshafts counter weights, either drilling with drill press to remove weight, or adding weight by welding, (filling in counter weight holes. to compensate for motor imbalance. most of the time the motors imbalance is around 5000 rpm.
it is recommended thing to do if ur changing the rotating assembly. cause of changes in wieght, either heavier or lighter. some ppl don't balance there motors after changing out there assemblies. and will notice a vibration from the motor. sometimes very harsh. and turns out down the road they have to build another one. cause they spun a main, or rod bearing. or just destroying the motor cause of the vibration of the imbalance at high rpms. so it is recommended that u should get a motor balanced if changing componets. if ur like 10 - 20 grams off it's not that big of a deal. wont notice it cause when ur vehicle comes from the factory its not perfectly balanced anyways. and u also gain numbers in doing so.
Okay, so two years ago I got the P1443 and replaced all the evap hoses with fuel line and both electrical parts. I should say, all but one hose, the one closest to the fuel tank. I was pretty sure I could get that one off, but not sure at all I could get a new hose on there because it looked...
Hey guys, it has been quite a while but it's good to be back!
I am in need of some guidance regarding a recent engine swap in my 97 bird.
The back story:
It has been quite a while since I have posted, mostly due to the fact that my motor exploded roughly 6 years ago. Since then the car has...
I'm giving changing my motor mounts another try, and instead of going through the torture that removing the mount+bracket out of a 2x2 inch space was, I was wondering about the service manual's procedure for changing them.
The one thing I wasn't sure about was that it instructs you...
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