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Discussion Starter #1
I'm not sure if anyone else has experienced this, but when turning on the AC I have noticed a slight loss of power and the car begins to heat up. I recently replaced the t-stat but so far no change. On another note I also replaced the MAF and put some copper plugs and new 8mm wires. Any ideas why it overheats? Thanks.
 

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well the slight loss of power should be expected since now your engine is having to turn the AC compressor, which takes work to do.......as far as your cooling? did this just happen all of a sudden, or were you running warmer as time went by?
 

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While the AC is running, the condenser gets really hot and pulls the heat into the radiator, but this should not cause overheating. What is the condition of the radiator? May need a good flushing or possible rodded out.

W.Cup
 

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Remember you have a two speed fan and it turns to high speed when you engage the AC. If you fan is bad and only operating on lowspeed that could be the issue
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well, the coolant was flushed out about 9 months ago, and the T-stat was changed about 1.5 months ago. I'll check on the fans and see if they work correctly. I guess ever since I got the car it has a a tendency to go towards the R of NORM when going uphill (over the Grapevine) or when I turn on the AC. I've gone as far as turning the heat on to bring the temp back down..... the radiator looks in good condition, washed it on the outside on last maintenance. I also have the cold-air induction on stock filter and intake body. I hope its no big thing, yesterday the needle hit the M.
 

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Usually that radiator flush stuff is a bunch of crap. If your radiator is seriously stopped up from contaminants, then you need to rod it out. The bottom cores get almost totally blocked off, that's something that radiator flush isnt going to touch. I took care of my friend's '89 once, the bottom 5" of cores were 95% blocked off. It took me forever to rod though all the hard crap that was built up. I'd suggest either replacing the radiator or getting it rodded out if you have covered all other bases and cant figure it out. Also 50/50 antifreeze and water shouldn't be bad for you since you live in CA. It's also not unusual for a car to run a little warmer in hotter weather, spring is here! :D
-Rob
 

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Mine was doing that too, along with leaking at the wonderful plastic side tanks. I said f it, and dumped the 03 cobra rad in. runs nice and cool now, even w/ the a/c on, sitting in traffic. Never really gets past where the t-stat is to open. Well worth the money for the cooling efficency. If you can't get your's to cool properly, this may be the way to go if you have some extra $$ laying around or can save up. Dan @ Joe Cooper Ford has good prices for this stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
thanks for all the replies..... today I had some time on my hands so first thing I did was check the fan and make sure it worked properly when I turned on the AC. The fan works fine. Here is what happened though that has not happened before, when I turned on the car the second time without the AC on, the "check gauges light" was on and it stayed on for about 10 minutes, then it turned off, also the temp gauge was at the middle, and I barely drove it the first time to check the fan. I might end up replacing with another t-stat since it is the cheapest and re-filling with new coolant/water mix(right now it is filled up 50/50). If that does not do the trick then I guess I'll replace radiator since I will be taking a trip to Vegas on Memorial Day weekend, don't want to be on the side of the 56. Any ideas on the "check gauges light"?
 

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Check gauges will come on anytime one of your gauges goes into the red, or gets close. Mine is coming on intermittently from the oil pressure gauge (my sender is phuked) and the gas gauge because im always low on gas :D. Just keep an eye on your gauges and see which one is way out of range.
-Rob
 

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My bird does the same thing. I've changed to thermostat to a 180 and changed the antifreeze twice. It still overheats with the AC on if it is over 90 out, which is like everday here :(. I didn't know about the two speed fan though, I'll have to check it out.

It sucks being stuck on the 15 between LA and Vegas with no AC, beuase there's always traffic jams.
 

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murcielago said:
thanks for all the replies..... today I had some time on my hands so first thing I did was check the fan and make sure it worked properly when I turned on the AC. The fan works fine. Here is what happened though that has not happened before, when I turned on the car the second time without the AC on, the "check gauges light" was on and it stayed on for about 10 minutes, then it turned off, also the temp gauge was at the middle, and I barely drove it the first time to check the fan. I might end up replacing with another t-stat since it is the cheapest and re-filling with new coolant/water mix(right now it is filled up 50/50). If that does not do the trick then I guess I'll replace radiator since I will be taking a trip to Vegas on Memorial Day weekend, don't want to be on the side of the 56. Any ideas on the "check gauges light"?
I had the problem with the engine overheating with the AC on one time driving north from SF to Seattle. I ended up shutting the AC off for the most part and using my windows, for the rest of that trip. When I got back, flushed the radiator and the engine the best I could, and refilled with a stronger concentration, of coolant to water (about 70/30). I also installed 180* t-stat, and underdrive pullies, and now everything is great no matter what I do. I drove to Sacramento and back one day (2 weeks ago when it was pretty hot), and used my AC, and the temp gauge hovered right around the N of NORM. Other than that, sorry I can't be of more help. Where in the Bay are you?
 

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I would say you need a new rad. B/c that same exact thing was happening to my 3.8. It would only overheat when i turned on my a/c. I flushed the rad acouple of times and no use, it still overheated. Until i bought me a new rad, and no more overheating. Either that or your fan is not kicking on when you turn on the A/C.

CamellionCat
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well fan kicks in when supposed to, and today the weather was not as hot and the car ran most of the day right in the middle, which it had never done before. I think I will end up replacing the radiator, not sure if with the cobra or a regular one, depends on the overall cost difference. Might as well make the whole repair than pre-emptive one's and risk getting stuck somewhere. So far all the fluid levels are normal, so who knows why the light went on. MadCanadian I am in the East Bay right across the Bay Bridge. Thanks again for all the feedback..... if anyone else has more by all means share your knowledge :).
 

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I'm on Yerba Buena Island right now, but next week I'm moving to Alameda. If you need the radiator in a hurry, talk to Frank in parts at Serramonte Ford in Daly City. He's always hooked me up gving me discounts on everything. Otherwise, I'm sure somebody will chime in about Dan Newman.
 

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MadCanadian said:
Otherwise, I'm sure somebody will chime in about Dan Newman.
Well since you insist. I just ordered a radiator through Dan last month it was around $160
 

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murcielago said:
Well fan kicks in when supposed to, and today the weather was not as hot and the car ran most of the day right in the middle, which it had never done before. ... if anyone else has more by all means share your knowledge :).
You do know that you have a two speed fan. Our fans have a low and a high speed. One may work while the other does not. An easy check is with a scanner.
 

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New rad for my car is like $90 something at a local radiator shop, that may be at a slight discount as well.
-Rob
 

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is your CHECK ENGINE light on if not replace the radiator and t-stat that will do the trick. I was also curious to ask you who checked your fan for you?
 

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Remember to always use distilled water in your mix. Tap water will have minerals that cause corrosion. A true radiator flush the entire system will be flushed, not just the radiator.

Also, water cools better than coolant. Having 60/40 water/coolant will actually cool better as water has better heat transfer qualitites. You can also use redline water-wetter. It will increase heat transfer also.

It sounds like you need a new radiator though.

Dan
 
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