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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
D
Doing a PI head swap on a 1994 Tbird. Bullitt intake. 2 stages of Nitrous, 100 on the hit 150 hp second gear activated. 2 nd stage on it's own fuel system. MSD 4DIS with timers, Msd coils & 10mm Wires, 4:10 gear. Built AOD with 2800 Stahl converter. JBA headers. 2.5 " Off road H pipe & flowmaster exhaust.
Can anyone here give me more advice? I want to drive in and go in the 11's
I'm neer completion but will spend what ever to make this thing hook and go!
Gary
 

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1997 Thunderbird 4.6, 1998 Mark VIII LSC
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FYI the stock trans is a 4R70W. What cams? Any portwork on the heads? I'd recommend more stall, 3500-3800 or even 4000. Who is the tuner?
 

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Bullitt intake... I hate you!! Lol i want one so bad for my gt motor im building. I agree with Brandon on the stall for that build. And yes also its a 4r70w. Not AOD. Are you keeping the stock pulleys?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Aod.

My car and I own 3 of these all have been fitted with Abrusi built AOD's!
My cars driven, 3800-4000 stahl is not for me on the street. I'll go with more rear gear and give up some stahl.
I'm looking more for HOOK UP advice then power advice!
 

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My car and I own 3 of these all have been fitted with Abrusi built AOD's!
My cars driven, 3800-4000 stahl is not for me on the street. I'll go with more rear gear and give up some stahl.
To each their own, but good converters with high stall won't hurt your streetability. Once you hit lockup, stall doesn't matter, anyways.

You can use long tube headers for a Mustang since they are cheaper, but you will have some minor clearance issues on the passenger side and you'll have major issues on the driver's side - have to relocate the steering shaft or customize the header. 2 1/2" duals with no cats helps, too!

+1 on the UDP's - every little bit helps!

11's is pretty optimistic - good luck to you with your build! Sounds quick! Lighten the bejeezus out of your Bird!
 

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Post some pics and you might get a bit of a talking to. Lots of people come in wanting to do all this stuff, and just ask. Well this site has hundreds and hundreds of threads that have information you need. So don't be afraid to search!

These cars are a little heavy (3700 pounds-ish w/o driver). and 11's seems a bit far fetched, especailly since these cars stock run around 15.5-16.0 well maintained. In a Mustang, your gonna be alot closer to your goal. MN12's are better away ;) Not dissing your plans just letting you know what you have to overcome

Anywho, first Introduce yourself, what got you into MN12s? Pictures of your car? Find out who else in Ohio, and ask them to meet up. Looking forward to your progress. Good luck with your bird!
 

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Chill out dude, it's very unusual to see any 4.6 with an AOD (and for good reason). I said they came with 4R70Ws stock, not necessarily that what you had was one. It's your first post - we don't know what your level of expertise is. If you've got a bullet intake, you'll want to get high in the powerband - and quick, if you want low ETs. And you won't get to those RPMs with stock internals either.

By the way, it's stall, not "stahl".

And in my opinion... you just wasted a bunch of money building and swapping in an AOD. The 4R70W is boatloads stronger than the AOD.
 

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Chill out dude, it's very unusual to see any 4.6 with an AOD (and for good reason). I said they came with 4R70Ws stock, not necessarily that what you had was one. It's your first post - we don't know what your level of expertise is. If you've got a bullet intake, you'll want to get high in the powerband - and quick, if you want low ETs. And you won't get to those RPMs with stock internals either.

By the way, it's stall, not "stahl".

And in my opinion... you just wasted a bunch of money building and swapping in an AOD. The 4R70W is boatloads stronger than the AOD.
You guys may be talking about the same tranny; 4R70W is just an electronic AOD, anyways.
 

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The AODE was an electronic AOD. The 4R70W uses a different gearset/ratio, valve body, output/input shaft, etc. etc.
 

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Can anyone here give me more advice?
Sounds like you asked for advice in general.

Then why is this in the engine tech forum?
+1

If you're not interested in hearing what we have to say, do some searching. Get some drag radials, find a track that does good prep, and experiment with launch RPM/tire PSI.
 

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Hmmm let me look into the future, I suggest a set of pistons and rods.

And put a real tire on it, a slick, why people try to race on a street tire I'll never understand.
 

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27 or 28x10.5 tires minimum. Get airbags for the rears to control how much squat your car has/needs. Get stiffer bushings anywhere in the back you can. Make sure your trac loc is working good and the clutches are good. Lighten up the front for better weight transfer.

Go to a track that is known for hooking well.

Are you spraying a 100 shot and then a 150 shot on top of that in second gear?
 

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These cars are a little heavy (3700 pounds-ish w/o driver). and 11's seems a bit far fetched, especailly since these cars stock run around 15.5-16.0 well maintained. In a Mustang, your gonna be alot closer to your goal. MN12's are better away ;) Not dissing your plans just letting you know what you have to overcome
OH Really?????
 

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I didn't say it wasn't possible. Maybe id be able too tell if he listed in detail what his mods were. Your running 12.94 all motor, that is a decent feat itself.
 

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Your car has a 4r70w if you care to argue that u might as well not even reply, but serious it's a 4r70w I've worked on a ton of these cars, also id look at a nice set of cams for those heads maybe contact MHS and talk with nick
 

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I think we might have scared him off. :zdunno:
 

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You guys scared off another one! Everyone who comes in here for a project gets ran out of town lol. But then again, they usually know it all anyway, so what's the use for the forum...
 
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