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Discussion Starter #1
does anyone have any pics of the location of lift points on the block? for removing and installing the motor. Does the manifold have to be removed? Close ups would be nice:)

thanks

joseph
 

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Get yourself an engine leveler this will make the job much easier. Remove two of the 10mm intake bolts from the front and two from the back. Attach the leveler there and lift the engine out. It will be close to your fuel rail but wont damage it. I have pulled a dozen 4.6 out this way with no problem. Good luck.
 

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The first time I pulled a 4.6, I used a couple of lift brackets off of a 302 and bolted them to the sides where there were a couple of holes for pulling. Front on the driver's side, back on the passenger side. This was rather cumbersome, but it worked.
The last time I installed my 4.6, I bought an engine leveller for $25 at Northern Tool. Since I had the alternator off, I used the two alternator to block holes in the front. Then I used two holes in the back. I think there were holes threaded into the heads, but I don't recall. This method was by far the easiest. The engine leveller is a requirement for me now.
 

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Joe,

I did like tinman used the alt holes in the front and the back ones on the rear of the head. I have a leveler if you need it.
 

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Any problems of "munching" the valve covers when you use the bolt holes in the back of the heads? Plastic and chains usually don't mix too well!! :beek:
 

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No they are right on the upper corner so the chains pull toward the valley
 

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Excellent! :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Cam94 said:
Engine coming out of your birdy joe?
ive got some plans involving that........and a company in michigan that makes valvetrain parts..... :D

im shooting for early may before summer classes start...Preston has all the stuff to do it...a few extra hands from the guys who done did explorer motors might be able to help...but the car will be powered by 3.14 ;) no matter which block..

joseph
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Dr. FrankenCougie said:














Aw sheeet we done did bented da post. Better let the air out of the tyres....
thanks scott, those were the pics i was hoping to get...

joseph
 

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I used the intake bolting holes and a leveler.
 

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'Bout time you stepped it up some :) If you have parts coming from MI, I have a feeling I may need to step it up some too!


The Great Obucina said:
...but the car will be powered by 3.14....
We all know I'm a little slow :) but what does that mean :confused:
 

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Frankencougie's setup is the CORRECT and SAFEST way. Intake manifold is held on with 8mm? shanked bolts. Do you trust two or even four of those tiny things to not drop your $$ I mean engine? The Ford tool is bolted on the same way as Frankencougie, just no leveler.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Aaron K. said:
'Bout time you stepped it up some :) If you have parts coming from MI, I have a feeling I may need to step it up some too!




We all know I'm a little slow :) but what does that mean :confused:
whip out the calc...press the PI button:)


joseph
 

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We have no experience in installing engines. Those modular thingies shouldn't take much
to install, they can't weigh very much because they don't make alot of power. :eek:

Your's will not begin until mine is done! :tongue:
 

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so when can we do mine? (engine/trans) :D
 
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