2
Done.
4.6L valley hole plug - part #'s, codes, & pics
3
I was initially going to put this in the exploded view thread, but it's rather part specific and diverges from that thread's primary concern. It could go in the valley pic thread, but it involves part replacement info, not merely images of a valley. If mods feel the need to move it, so be it.
After stupidly cracking off an upper corner of my plug/cover, I later found that it was cracked in at least one other place, so I decided to forget any attempt at repair and removed the whole thing.
If one is careful, it can be broken apart in 5-6 pieces and extracted w/o having bits fall down, because the block actually goes back under it, catching pieces. I didn't realize this at the time, so I was super careful to hold onto all pieces as I dismembered it.
Lesson learned (again). Plastic embrittlement in the engine/bay = don't touch anything you aren't prepared to replace. Don't even look at it wrong. Don't even think about looking at it or it might crack. I still have to replace that TPS harness connector that shattered into a dozen pieces upon [non-aggressive] removal. pfft!
Ford calls this a converter inspection hole cover. Since it takes some maneuvering to get one's finger up and over the metal tab back there, it seems the only way to inspect the converter would be via fiber optic camera probe.
Welp, I'm not going to leave that gaping hole back there, so...
Time for a parts guru to chime in, as there are multiple part numbers for this cover. I need to be sure I'm ordering the correct one. It's still available, assuming I inquired using the correct part number, but the nearest stocking dealer is over a hundred miles from me. Nearest non-stocking dealer that won't charge me freight to order it is far enough away that 2 round trips would cost more in gas than inflated shipping from an online source. bah!
I'm not going to bother with junked cars, for obvious reasons.
The part numbers I've gleaned thus far are:
F3AZ-6C070-AA
F65Z-6C070-AB
Unless I'm mistaken, Ford code translates to:
F = 90's, 3 = '93, 6 = '96, A = full sized Ford (Crown Vic?), Z = Ford service part, 6C070 = base part number, AA = first release, AB = first revision (supposedly revision parts will fit first release holes, but not vice-versa; revised lip must be larger for a larger revised hole? :zdunno
WTH does the "5" in the second part number denote? I couldn't find that on any Ford decoder online -- all of them list LETTERS in that spot, no numbers.
The Ford parts catalog shows 6C070 as two different parts on the 4.6L block with different prices.
Check this out and tell me it looks like the rear valley plug!
So, ordering any 6C070, even the same year, isn't necessarily going to get me the part I need. Gotta love it!
It gets better.
They list both part numbers with descriptions on this site, BUT the AZ part is listed as "rear valley hole", while the 5Z part is listed as "converter inspection hole", with different prices.
Sound good, right? I should order the AZ, of course! mmkay, now check this out:
Scroll down this page and see the highlighted part in the diagram is the correct part, but the part number listed is the 5Z, which is apparently the converter inspection hole plug, which is different than the rear valley hole plug.
Clearly, with different numbers having different prices, and the image of the catalog diagram being completely different and in a different location than the valley, there ARE two different parts with the number 6C070.
So, DOES the 5Z fit my AZ hole or not? Do I even HAVE an AZ hole?? <--- don't even go there (literally or figuratively!) :facepalm:
Pics for those who are curious what my AZ hole looks like and haven't seen it up close and personal (tried typing that with a straight face, but couldn't do it):
A higher angle shot, showing how the block continues back a ways, making it somewhat safe to break up the plug for retrieval:
Now I just need to find the right plug for my AZ hole and I'll feel much better. (sorry, I couldn't help it)
After stupidly cracking off an upper corner of my plug/cover, I later found that it was cracked in at least one other place, so I decided to forget any attempt at repair and removed the whole thing.
If one is careful, it can be broken apart in 5-6 pieces and extracted w/o having bits fall down, because the block actually goes back under it, catching pieces. I didn't realize this at the time, so I was super careful to hold onto all pieces as I dismembered it.
Lesson learned (again). Plastic embrittlement in the engine/bay = don't touch anything you aren't prepared to replace. Don't even look at it wrong. Don't even think about looking at it or it might crack. I still have to replace that TPS harness connector that shattered into a dozen pieces upon [non-aggressive] removal. pfft!
Ford calls this a converter inspection hole cover. Since it takes some maneuvering to get one's finger up and over the metal tab back there, it seems the only way to inspect the converter would be via fiber optic camera probe.
Welp, I'm not going to leave that gaping hole back there, so...
Time for a parts guru to chime in, as there are multiple part numbers for this cover. I need to be sure I'm ordering the correct one. It's still available, assuming I inquired using the correct part number, but the nearest stocking dealer is over a hundred miles from me. Nearest non-stocking dealer that won't charge me freight to order it is far enough away that 2 round trips would cost more in gas than inflated shipping from an online source. bah!
I'm not going to bother with junked cars, for obvious reasons.
The part numbers I've gleaned thus far are:
F3AZ-6C070-AA
F65Z-6C070-AB
Unless I'm mistaken, Ford code translates to:
F = 90's, 3 = '93, 6 = '96, A = full sized Ford (Crown Vic?), Z = Ford service part, 6C070 = base part number, AA = first release, AB = first revision (supposedly revision parts will fit first release holes, but not vice-versa; revised lip must be larger for a larger revised hole? :zdunno
WTH does the "5" in the second part number denote? I couldn't find that on any Ford decoder online -- all of them list LETTERS in that spot, no numbers.
The Ford parts catalog shows 6C070 as two different parts on the 4.6L block with different prices.
Check this out and tell me it looks like the rear valley plug!
So, ordering any 6C070, even the same year, isn't necessarily going to get me the part I need. Gotta love it!
It gets better.
They list both part numbers with descriptions on this site, BUT the AZ part is listed as "rear valley hole", while the 5Z part is listed as "converter inspection hole", with different prices.
Sound good, right? I should order the AZ, of course! mmkay, now check this out:
Scroll down this page and see the highlighted part in the diagram is the correct part, but the part number listed is the 5Z, which is apparently the converter inspection hole plug, which is different than the rear valley hole plug.
Clearly, with different numbers having different prices, and the image of the catalog diagram being completely different and in a different location than the valley, there ARE two different parts with the number 6C070.
So, DOES the 5Z fit my AZ hole or not? Do I even HAVE an AZ hole?? <--- don't even go there (literally or figuratively!) :facepalm:
Pics for those who are curious what my AZ hole looks like and haven't seen it up close and personal (tried typing that with a straight face, but couldn't do it):
A higher angle shot, showing how the block continues back a ways, making it somewhat safe to break up the plug for retrieval:
Now I just need to find the right plug for my AZ hole and I'll feel much better. (sorry, I couldn't help it)
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
2
Done.
The original plug is very loose fitting; it did not hold the water when I blew the intake crossover on Lazarus' original manifold.
I'd leave it open; water poured thru there will drop thru the cover plate at the bottom.
It does not seal there, even tho there's another plug at the bottom.
I'd say F-it. You don't want water to stand there if it rains.
I'd leave it open; water poured thru there will drop thru the cover plate at the bottom.
It does not seal there, even tho there's another plug at the bottom.
I'd say F-it.
You don't want water to stand there if it rains.
Ok, the consensus is that I'm overreacting.
Fine. Left unexplained is why the Ford engineers put one there if it isn't important. Unreasonable orders came down from suits at HQ? To prevent litigation? So the engineers would sleep better at night? Bragging rights (yeah? Well, MY engine design has a valley plug and yours doesn't! So there! haaaa)?
It can't be seen with the manifold on, so I'm pretty sure it wasn't added for aesthetics. :tongue:
I've used various brands of this kind of tape on a lot of things over the years and learned to only use it for very temporary applications.
Anyway, the idea here is not to seal the hole, but to allow fluid to drain while not allowing solid debris to enter. It's molded plastic and evidently was designed to fit loosely enough to allow a slow drain.
I installed a NOS mega fuse sliding cover not long ago after I broke a chunk off the original during an oil change; ordered 2 just in case it ever happened again.
The point is I do my best to keep the car whole, and thinking about this plug missing would bug me.
There may be a functional advantage to placing them above the alt that I'm not aware of, but the stock configuration has worked well for me since '96.
Fine. Left unexplained is why the Ford engineers put one there if it isn't important. Unreasonable orders came down from suits at HQ? To prevent litigation? So the engineers would sleep better at night? Bragging rights (yeah? Well, MY engine design has a valley plug and yours doesn't! So there! haaaa)?
It can't be seen with the manifold on, so I'm pretty sure it wasn't added for aesthetics. :tongue:
Even in tame dry environments duct tape's adhesive turns into dust in short order and at 98.6°F it turns into gooey mush (don't ask).
I've used various brands of this kind of tape on a lot of things over the years and learned to only use it for very temporary applications.
Anyway, the idea here is not to seal the hole, but to allow fluid to drain while not allowing solid debris to enter. It's molded plastic and evidently was designed to fit loosely enough to allow a slow drain.
I guess it depends on how one defines "important functioning". I've had this car since new in '96 and can say that the only parts missing are:
- TPS harness connector outer shell
- plastic locking clip on one side of an ignition coil harness connector
- plastic locking clip on the temp gauge harness connector
- plastic locking clip on the a/c compressor harness connector
- a few plastic harness anchors on doors (from window motor repair jobs)
- evap solenoid harness/tube anchors
- several upper bumper fascia fasteners
- the valley plug (and of course the manifold for now)
I installed a NOS mega fuse sliding cover not long ago after I broke a chunk off the original during an oil change; ordered 2 just in case it ever happened again.
The point is I do my best to keep the car whole, and thinking about this plug missing would bug me.
Why not? Split loom tubing is cheap and I have some here already. And it only takes a few minutes to remove and reinstall the alt. I was also considering upgrading to a high output alt anyway; might be a good time to change plug wires.
There may be a functional advantage to placing them above the alt that I'm not aware of, but the stock configuration has worked well for me since '96.Can't crud potentially make its way into flexplate teeth and thereby grind in the starter/flexplate gear mesh? Ok, so maybe leaves won't pose a serious problem vs. steel (petioles, though? hmmm), and I don't anticipate river rocks getting into my valley anytime soon, but I did find a plastic cap in the valley that I didn't remember losing.
Do they have a different kind of anti-debris scheme in the bell housing which can't be seen from the valley? How large/small is the hole in the Al block?
I was like, "Oh $#!+ I broke it! The engineers must have put it there for a good reason. :beek:"
The black plastic snap covers with the hole in the top? Those are still present and accounted for. The split loom tubing is still on the positive cable. I did replace the terminal on the negative cable, though.
The heat shield that slides down over the top? Don't have it. But then there wasn't one there when I bought the car; maybe the dealer removed it. This car is I believe an early '96 (it came with a '95 type tranny pan; I know, because the '96 filter wouldn't fit so I had to go back for a '95 just to finish the fluid change the first time I did it).
If the battery shield was supposed to be on the early '96, well then add that to the list of items not present -- I don't consider it MIA since it wasn't on the car when I bought it new off the lot.
Are you referring to the bumper valance panel? Mine still has that and the radiator air deflector panel that goes behind it.
I can post pics of the parts in question if it's really so incredible that a '96 still has them. Frankly, I find it incredible that most of these cars don't still have them. Do people throw them in the trash after they remove them? Don't bother checking up on mechanics to see that they've reinstalled everything? I'm guessing this is mostly a problem with multi-owner vehicles, where many different hands have done many different things to them.
Oh c'mon now. Not having OEM harness "T" anchors (the ones taped into the harness) doesn't bother me, because I secured those points via other means. Those anchors can be ordered, though, they're available just like the Christmas tree fasteners that hold up the valance panel (I bought a bag of 50 of those suckers because they get destroyed so often during oil changes, etc.).
Apples vs. oranges here -- one (the plug) is [ostensibly] meant to protect a critical piece of machinery; the other (T anchor) is, from what I can tell, mostly meant to prevent annoying rattles.
I never said the car shouldn't be touched after it rolls off the factory floor. I did say I try to keep it whole and OEM, which means using new OEM replacements when available and practicable.
I simply haven't yet run into many parts that I couldn't obtain replacements for. That's one thing I like about Fords. If OEM isn't available (or priced for the sane), usually an aftermarket equivalent is. Am I going to spend $300 on an OEM suspension part when I can use a $60 Moog equivalent (or better) instead? No, because I don't have money to burn (I'd be driving a collection of brand new, expensive vehicles if I did).
I've had vehicles before that you couldn't get a simple part for if it meant saving your life -- this was before the internet, though, and parts hunting was a great deal more difficult back then.
Overspray is not good. Oversprayers should work on their masking skills.
Mine does need new paint, though, and obviously it can't literally have new factory paint. I'll try to find a pro to apply clear that's at least as tough as factory -- may need airplane paint, but... Why bother with the hassle of disassembly, prep and downtime just to shoot it with a cheap finish that will last 2 years?
Now back on topic, here's the deal with the plug folks:
I called a helpful Ford parts guy who confirmed the eBay listing I linked to is wrong.
The F3AZ-6C070-AA is indeed the UPPER block (valley rear) hole plug.
The F65Z-6C070-AB is the LOWER block inspection hole plug.
Also, the "5" in the part number indicates half year (i.e., F65 = 1996.5).
I called Autozone, O'reilly, Advance and Napa. None of them had a cross for the OEM number and none of them had ever seen any generic valley hole plugs. I thought with the number of vehicles using the same blocks, surely aftermarket plugs of various dimensions would be on the market, but apparently NOT. Yeah yeah, I know I know.. you're saying "Gee, maybe the reason why they're not readily available aftermarket is because... they're NOT NEEDED!" Maybe not, maybe so. At any rate, 5 bucks isn't much for peace of mind -- not ordering off eBay, btw, and will probably order other parts to make shipping cost per item more reasonable.
I'll post pics of the OEM part when I get it, along with dimensions. Maybe that info will come in handy if/when someone else wants to replace theirs (quite unnecessarily I'm sure!).
We don't need to know about your obsession with having your azhole plugged with some kind of plastic, man. This is a family oriented forum! :tongue: jk
Now you can finally put this to rest.
Now you can finally put this to rest.
Yup, on to bigger and better things -- like finishing the actual PI intake swap.
Unless someone has a question about this one part that wasn't answered by the slideshow post or disagrees with something I've posted about it, it's a done deal as far as I'm concerned and I wouldn't whine about the thread being closed at this point.
Oh wait a sec, can we go back and edit posts within a closed thread? I may need to fix something Photobucket screws up (e.g., if they ditch their slideshow during another "upgrade").
Unless someone has a question about this one part that wasn't answered by the slideshow post or disagrees with something I've posted about it, it's a done deal as far as I'm concerned and I wouldn't whine about the thread being closed at this point.
Oh wait a sec, can we go back and edit posts within a closed thread? I may need to fix something Photobucket screws up (e.g., if they ditch their slideshow during another "upgrade").
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