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Though I dont have one (give it 3 months), and I dont remember ever hearing somebody praise them a bunch, I dont remember anyone bad mouthing them either.

Ill be using my car mainly for shows and cruises, but it will be going on HRPT, RMRW, and drag week. I also plan on running the Texas Mile and Air Strip Attack with it. So if nothing else, we'll be in the same boat.
 

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The Parts Guy
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The 4" driveshafts require some work to fit without rubbing. That said, for a land-speed car, a 4" is just about necessary.
 

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I run a 4” that I bought from SCP. It did rub a little on the factory safety loop near the diff. I was able to tweet the loop and have had no other problems.
 

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1991 Mercury Cougar LS 5.0 in restoration
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What power level, or sustained speed requires the 4" over 3.5"?
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Thanks for the replies and sorry for duplicating the thread.
If it's not a lot of work,and that is the gist of the replies, I will go to 4" and put another item behind it in priority.
 

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I completely destroyed a stock shaft in a month's driving; it was completely separated, and vibrating.70-90mph freeway driving kills them quick.
The Red Cougars' gave me a terrible vibration at 80mph; it took out the transmission rear seal, the bushing. the rear end gears, and the wheel bearings. :)
The tailshaft loosened up, and the fluid loss took out the tranny. :)
The posts are here; that was the first tranny I killed. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Though I dont have one (give it 3 months), and I dont remember ever hearing somebody praise them a bunch, I dont remember anyone bad mouthing them either.

Ill be using my car mainly for shows and cruises, but it will be going on HRPT, RMRW, and drag week. I also plan on running the Texas Mile and Air Strip Attack with it. So if nothing else, we'll be in the same boat.
Wile E., That's awesome man! I am impressed with your plans and enthusiasm for Drag Week and going fast in a mile!
We want to do pretty much the same kind of agenda, and hope to meet up with you.
NJ is not in my neighborhood, but it's not more than 6 hours. We should try to meet up if it is semi-convenient.

Have you given thought about going to the Maine Event at Loring? That is our planned first high speed event.

RD
 

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Wile E., That's awesome man! I am impressed with your plans and enthusiasm for Drag Week and going fast in a mile!
We want to do pretty much the same kind of agenda, and hope to meet up with you.
NJ is not in my neighborhood, but it's not more than 6 hours. We should try to meet up if it is semi-convenient.

Have you given thought about going to the Maine Event at Loring? That is our planned first high speed event.

RD
I had never heard of the Maine Event until you just mentioned it. Ill try to make that as well.

The trick from what I can tell is to have multiple diffs. Thinking 4:10s for the quarter, 3.27s for road and half mile use, and 3.08s for mile.
 

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I had never heard of the Maine Event until you just mentioned it. Ill try to make that as well.

The trick from what I can tell is to have multiple diffs. Thinking 4:10s for the quarter, 3.27s for road and half mile use, and 3.08s for mile.
4.10's for the quarter are great. I'd go 3.55 for the road and half mile.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
I am pretty excited just to even get there, intact, and be able to run.
We came to the same conclusion on different differentials.
There is a penalty or class uptick for quick change diffs, so it's complete units only.
I actually had slightly different numbers in mind but it's all a new experiment.
I love the idea of running different venues, not limited to the 1/4 mile. I think these cars can do okay as utility racers and I am looking forward to it very much.
I hope our luck and good fortune continues, I feel like we are off to a pretty solid beginning. Thanks to the TCCOA member input and resources available, answers to questions, suggestions and observations we probably will not present a menace to other racers.
 

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1991 Mercury Cougar LS 5.0 in restoration
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I think you'll find that after changing the diff once it's a fairly simple process, and having a couple sitting around for your differing uses will be very doable.
 

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I am pretty excited just to even get there, intact, and be able to run.
We came to the same conclusion on different differentials.
There is a penalty or class uptick for quick change diffs, so it's complete units only.
I actually had slightly different numbers in mind but it's all a new experiment.
I love the idea of running different venues, not limited to the 1/4 mile. I think these cars can do okay as utility racers and I am looking forward to it very much.
I hope our luck and good fortune continues, I feel like we are off to a pretty solid beginning. Thanks to the TCCOA member input and resources available, answers to questions, suggestions and observations we probably will not present a menace to other racers.
One thing to keep in mind that it doesn't really take that long to swap our diffs.

More than a quick change, less than a standard solid axle diff.

RwP
 
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Thanks to a trick that Mad mike showed me, popping out the CVs and knuckles as a complete unit, it takes me about a half hour start to finish. Im sure that time can get lower if I orient the bolts differently and make it a usual job.
 

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1994 Cougar XR7 DOHC/5-Speed
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That’s the only way I ever remove the knuckles. On my car the only time removed the knuckles by themselves was when I did the hub swap

The pumpkin design on these is great, it’s easier to swap ratios than a 9”, don’t even have to drain the fluid!
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
I toyed with the idea of having different IRS frames with diffs installed and swapping out the IRS.
Thought about it right up until I installed a whole one alone. That was a chore and not speedy in any way.
I always take the whole knuckle out with the shaft...much less work.
 

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If hit the three dots on the upper right hand corner there is an edit function. You can correct mistakes and then save the post.

I have to do it a lot with my swipe to spell app on my phone.

As for the multiple gearsets, you wouldn't swap the entire IRS, just the center section. Pull the knuckles and shafts, then a few bolts and it's out. Easy peasy.
 
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