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i'm rebuilding my 4R70W this weekend due to supposed intermediate clutch failure.
i also plan on adding a B&M 24,000GVM cooler, inline filter, running merc V, and possibly upgrading my TC to a marrader unit. couple of questions:

1. i heard that the flywheel needs to be ugraded to a marrader unit if i use a marrader TC, so is that a direct bolt up? and will that require any other mods such as recalibrating/flashing my computer(i don't have a chip, yet. . . .)

2. with the rebuild, who makes a decent performance seal and rebuild kit? i'm not looking to handle much more than stock power(max expected would be around 250 rwhp), but rather upgrade so the tranny handles everything better and is all around stronger

~also i don't plan on doing the j-mod(as much as people rave about it, i still hear too many negatives, although i'm willing to bet most problems from that mod arise from user errror or imperfect cores) unless somebody can convince otherwise, i also have already upgraded 1-2 accum.

thanks guys, and quick responces would be much appreachiated
 

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tomaso12 said:
i'm rebuilding my 4R70W this weekend due to supposed intermediate clutch failure.
i also plan on adding a B&M 24,000GVM cooler, inline filter, running merc V, and possibly upgrading my TC to a marrader unit. couple of questions:

1. i heard that the flywheel needs to be ugraded to a marrader unit if i use a marrader TC, so is that a direct bolt up? and will that require any other mods such as recalibrating/flashing my computer(i don't have a chip, yet. . . .)

2. with the rebuild, who makes a decent performance seal and rebuild kit? i'm not looking to handle much more than stock power(max expected would be around 250 rwhp), but rather upgrade so the tranny handles everything better and is all around stronger

~also i don't plan on doing the j-mod(as much as people rave about it, i still hear too many negatives, although i'm willing to bet most problems from that mod arise from user errror or imperfect cores) unless somebody can convince otherwise, i also have already upgraded 1-2 accum.

thanks guys, and quick responces would be much appreachiated
You need a markVIII flexplate.
Ford parts in my opinion are the best unless your going to use an expensive alto kit.
The only negatives to doing a j-mod is not getting it right.
I personally would do the j-mod just be conservative. If you set it up to slam gears it will slam gears. Especially on a stock converter. I would upgrade the 2-3 accumulator too.
Alan
 

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Direct Clutch Spline stuck in Planetary

My Direct Clutch Spline is stuck in Planetary Shaft Spline - I have jiggled it out an 1/8 inch or so but it's looking like some ginger taps with a wooden or plastic dowel (so as not to damaged it) will be needed to drive it out - Is this kinda common?

& As & I too have Int Roller Clutch failure yeah I chose to bring this old 4r70w Rebuild Thread back to life vice start a new one.
 

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Trying not to risk deforming the Direct Clutch "basket" & pry at the obvious points between Planetary & basket I went with a 1 inch, no larger, no smaller wood dowel thu Sun Shaft & a few whacks drove mine out - 1 inch Teflon Dowel would be the hot setup - In a severe case a 3/4 Brass pipe nipple (1inch OD) might be needed but you might give that bearing trapped inside back of Planetary a few shots it won't appreciate - Obviously you don't want to use an iron driver as you could deform the internal spline Stub Shaft mates to although if I had to use a Brass Driver I'd slip Stub Shaft in Spline while whacking - Upon investigation my guess is they cut the internal spline on the Direct Clutch basket Shaft AFTER they drilled the teeny Lube Feed holes in Direct Clutch basket Shaft for Sun Shaft Bronze Bearing it spins in - One of my feed holes was totally occluded & the other barely open - It wasn't just Clutch debris clogging them - I had to hand drill them out with the smallest shortest broken drill bit I obviously saved for just this job & my trusty small Vice Grips - The Direct Clutch basket Shaft & the Bronze bearing in Sun Shaft were sligthly scored the farthest from Lube Feed holes - My Direct Clutches are the only ones I've found black & worn & "sooty" ... still showing the vast amount of the Factory cross hatching but they were suffering as the Direct Clutch Shaft was'nt turning completely free in the Bronze Sun Shaft Bearing anymore - Cleaned the shaft score with one pass around with a Jewelers file & polished with 320 & 600 - Cleaned a little Shaft material imbedded in the Bronze Bearing grooves - In my case the Bronze Sun Shaft Bearing clearances are now "OK" but I'll replace Bronze anyway along with Alan's reccomendations - One may want to check those lube passages in Direct Clutch Basket internal Spline as a matter of due course - I certainly see how this could take out the Planetary, ETC... if it totally welded together & you could'nt seperate Direct Clutch & Planetary without killing the Planetary.
 

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Actually I could care less about the direct clutch, this failure is common to twisted direct drums, it needs to be replaced I'm sure.
Alan
 

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Not ignoring your expertise I think Direct Drum (not basket like I called it) is OK - New or old Plates "float" freely in it - It's possible I caught it just in time - Scoring was light & it was still spinning by hand prior to dissasembly but it was on the way out for sure as you describe & would not slip out past the scoring - & it would be a common failure IF by some miracle I'm correct about the all the Direct Drums having occluded lube holes.
 

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Look at the drum closely, the holes in the tower of it need to be completely round. If they are not it is twisted which is common and explains the situation.
Alan
 

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Aren't there some pics of twisted shafts and drums in one of your teardown articles, Alan?

I could be misremembering, but isn't that the problem of the 3-4 shift at significant throttle? :)
 

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Aren't there some pics of twisted shafts and drums in one of your teardown articles, Alan?

I could be misremembering, but isn't that the problem of the 3-4 shift at significant throttle? :)
There may be but I don't know where to find it off hand, a hard sort of thing to show on camera because it is down in the drum.
A 3-4 shift under much load can hurt these transmissions. THey just aren't meant for heavy load during overdrive or especially on the shift.
Alan
 

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I am going to chime in here and back up Alan. If you re-use that direct drum you will be in there again very soon cleaning up another mess.

When this happens, and I see it happening a lot more here in the last year and a half for some reason, the ONLY way to fix this problem it to replace the direct drum and the bushing in the planet.

Why?

Because the 'shaft' coming out of the center of the drum that the intermediate stub shaft splines into has been damaged. It most likely isn't perfectly round anymore and it also most likely isn't perfectly true anymore.

In other words it's gonna wobble and tear the hell out of things.

When you can get a good used direct drum for like $25 and a bushing for maybe $3, I think it's a basic no-brainer type situation.

But of course you are free to do what you wish. It's your car and maybe you like testing a hunch, and/or taking stuff apart to replace stuff that got damaged by stuff that wasn't replaced the first time. I don't know. Some people really seem to be into that sort of thing. To me it's a WHOLE lot of work to try and save $30.

Darrin
 

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Reverse Drum 7 or 8 Lugs ?

Thanx Darrin - I understand now that a Direct Drum that LOOKS good could be bad - I will replace & I don;t know for a fact that those are lube holes, you guys may know.

New question: As I look now about half the pix in my 2 Manuals show the Reverse Drum with the "missing" lug & hence only 7 external OD lugs - The other half of pix show Rev Drum with 8 external OD lugs - If 7 lugs is good then my Reverse Drum is OK.
 

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The reverse drum you have has one major flaw, a 7 element roller clutch that already exploded. It is junk. The mechanical diode will prevent that problem from ever happening and the spiral snap ring will make it a permanent fix.
Alan
 

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Intermediate One Way Clutches

So just to round out the Thread - By chance are ALL the "7 Lug" Reverse Drums fitted with the race for the poor Roller Clutch & ALL the "8 Lug Reverse Drums" fitted with the good Mech Diode Clutch?
 

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Forward Clutch Spring

Next question: My Forward Clutch Spring is "crooked" like a lot of springs are - Leaving top of Forward Clutch Spring Retainer a little unlevel - All under it is absolutely properly installed - All parts under it look brand new - It doesn't interfere with Hub or Bearing on top of it so is this a problem?
 

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With the coil wound spring on the forward I think they all appear crooked. As long as the snap ring sits flush I wouldn't worry about that.
Alan
 

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Forward Clutch Spring Retainer

Well all under it was good but Retainer was NOT properly installed, I caught inside lip of Retainer on Clip groove when compressing Spring which slightly bent inner retainer where it rides on clip & bend cocked the retainer & cocked the Spring - The clue was when Hub rode on Retainer vice laying on Number 3 Bearing - All is fixed now as soon as I upgrade my reading glasses.
 

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No 1 Selective Thrust Washer procedure

My fancy 8 Lug Reverse Drum with Mechanical Diode has a much greater height from the top of the Reverse Clutch Drum Thrust Face to the Snap Ring below it than my old POS 7 Lug Drum had - The boss above Snap Ring is wider - I saw this prior to install & anticipated maybe needing a different No 1 Selective Thrust Washer - But the measurement from Pump Case mounting Flange to the 8 Lug Reverse Clutch Drum Thrust Face is only 1.450 which is .035 below the minimum Manual Spec of 1.485 that calls for the Green No 1 Washer so ???

- I have'nt pulled the O/D Servo & O/D Band & 8 Lug Reverse Drum back out yet as things like the Reverse Clutch Lugs are almost centered in the notches of the Reverse Sun Gear when seen thru the port at bottom of Tranny so my thinking is all below is properly seated & it really looks like all the difference is at the 8 Lug Drum Snap Ring boss.

- My Intermediate Clutch Depth Spec is on the money.

- The old No 1 Thrust Washer is a Red Washer that's .105

- Thanx in advance to Gurus for some clarification here.
 
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