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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have looked and seen the options available commercially which looks like:
ATI prepped Trans brake kit that includes a modified valve body with some proprietary electronics for $920.00

Being thrifty is my game so I have to ask you guys:

What is the most cost effective method to add a trans brake to the AODE?
(I do 99.9% of my own work, and am not afraid to commit myself that way)

It looks like the method used us to make a fully manual valve body and add a solenoid setup to fire reverse and first together to activate the brake. Releasing the brake let's go of the reverse solenoid and allows the manual shift pattern to continue.
 

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I doubt this is going to be very useful; the heat buildup will be extreme; and the release on the reverse clutch is slow. You can change it a bit by drilling a hole bigger, but you hit a limit pretty quick.

Good luck and keep us informed; I'm always looking for a new way to break them. :)
You may be the first to hit my goal of melting the case!
I've hit 750 degrees; at that temp you can hear the fluid boiling from inside the car.

There is a full manual kit available, but IDK anything about it.
 

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I would be just as worried about the "shock" to the IRS axles, assuming the OP still has IRS.

Al
 

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50 years of Mercury Cougar 1967/2017
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My heap has a trans brake. It is slow to release, well not slow, but the reaction times are awful.
The 60' was faster by .05 for the short period of time I tested with it.
Broke two stock outer axle stubs with it.

You would also need a two step to keep the RPM in check while waiting in the stage beams.
Some times the but head in the next lane is slow to stage.

Just have excellent brakes and power brake the converter to the RPM you want to launch at.

But that would require a tachometer mounted on the dash in your line of vision, not looking down at the
instrument cluster and not being able to see the tree.

My opinion is a big NO.

Take the 920 and apply it to TFS heads.
 

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Also, the electronic shifting of these heaps is the ****, nothing better, don't manual valve body it.
It took me over a month to get my shift schedule to what I wanted, but it shifts like a manual; if youre idea of a shift involves dropping your foot off the side of the pedal:)

shifts up, and as I slow for a light it shifts down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thank you all for the input.

If I thought my ATF was boiling or at (750f???), I would have shut it down long before.

Amazing that you guys do that and then publish it too.

I have a spare trans so I may make my own trans brake, I won't buy one.
These transmissions are plentiful and cheap.

But if it is slower with than without, I won't bother.
I would love to ride with an MN12 equipped with the brake to help me understand.

RD
 

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Thank you all for the input.

If I thought my ATF was boiling or at (750f???), I would have shut it down long before.

Amazing that you guys do that and then publish it too.

I have a spare trans so I may make my own trans brake, I won't buy one.
These transmissions are plentiful and cheap.

But if it is slower with than without, I won't bother.
I would love to ride with an MN12 equipped with the brake to help me understand.

RD

I drove the car home on the interstate while the direct clutch was slipping, about 60 miles.

I read the temps off the datalog later.
The stock sensor isn't the best, but it's relatively usable.
It was still too hot to swap the next day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
My heap has a trans brake. It is slow to release, well not slow, but the reaction times are awful.
The 60' was faster by .05 for the short period of time I tested with it.
Broke two stock outer axle stubs with it.

You would also need a two step to keep the RPM in check while waiting in the stage beams.
Some times the but head in the next lane is slow to stage.

Just have excellent brakes and power brake the converter to the RPM you want to launch at.

But that would require a tachometer mounted on the dash in your line of vision, not looking down at the
instrument cluster and not being able to see the tree.

My opinion is a big NO.

Take the 920 and apply it to TFS heads.
None of this is super encouraging to do a trans brake.

My Converter stalls above 4200 with the stock npi SOHC ('Old Smokey') engine now. We run 275/40R18 locked up with 3.73:1 gears and it will smoke them from a 5 to 10mph roll.
I already broke one CV 1/2 shaft power braking it and one dropping a 2-1 downshift rolling...it dropped into first and sheared the inner joint clean off on the I93 exit 18 southbound ramp. I have less than 500 miles since the transmission work and diff rebuild. Adding another 100 hp will not help relieve this problem and adding the trans brake to that will break me. I can't afford the aftermarket shafts.

Thanks again.

Given the input from you guys and the above, I can't afford to spend another chunk to break more and more expensive driveline parts.
 

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A passenger side shaft from a mark 8 is stronger than the others.
 

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I assume the 2-1 downshift was not on purpose.

These transmissions are screwed up with their 2-1 WOT downshifts, it will downshift at a speed so high that it will put it right on the rev limiter in 1st. This is why I always try to do manual 2nd gear pulls. The Crown Vic does the same thing.

Al
 
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