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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Oil leaks and ramps

What's an oil spot on the ground closer to the right tire than left tire mean? Air pressure in right tire is fine.:zwthstpd:

It's been about ten years since the rear main oil seal and pan gasket were done.
 

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I'm no expert necessarily, but is it all along the bottom of the body from wind as it leaks, or only just a spot you're seeing on the ground? I can't remember what side the oil level sensor is on. The first two things that come to mind are that and the pan gasket.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes, the wind can blow it all over and make it all wet. I haven't jacked it up yet and I just spilled oil adding my first quart in about 20 years. I spilled about where the drip is showing up below but I think the drip hits a little aft of mid motor.

I just sealed my asphalt driveway so its pretty sticky now. The engineer in me says try the ramps on the downhill this time trying to avoid ramp slippage.
 

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Floor jack + jack stands > ramps. I still have ramps, but have not used them since the 80's. I remember them sliding, lol!

Al
 

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If you put a line of black RTV on the leading edge of the ramp, cover it in wax paper, then flip it over and let it spread out by the weight of the ramp and dry, it will make an anti-skid ramp.
 

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If you put a line of black RTV on the leading edge of the ramp, cover it in wax paper, then flip it over and let it spread out by the weight of the ramp and dry, it will make an anti-skid ramp.
I'll have to try that; turns out my back brakes on my Dakota aren't doing anything ...

RwP
 

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Wax paper and RTV is a great way to make gaskets, too.

The paper will peel right off.

Drum brakes on the Dakota? That'll be fun. :)
 

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Wax paper and RTV is a great way to make gaskets, too.

The paper will peel right off.

Drum brakes on the Dakota? That'll be fun. :)
Yep, complete with a Load Sensitive Proportioning Valve that seems to be failing with age and is made obviously of Unobtainium and Chinesium.

Fix is to plug the sense port in the metering block, and then either put a union in, or use a manually adjusted proportioning valve.

RwP
 

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I'd go manual, before modifying something already subpar.

Martigan did his bar with manual adjust, and it looked great, and he really liked it last I heard.

With a truck, the location is probably easier, too.
 

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Aye, it's a fair chance I'll go for the manual adjustment; the other is to let it possibly lock up early when the bed is empty.

Which it never is ...

What I'd love to do is find the 1989 proportioning valve / metering block (the only year without either the LSPV or the RWAL ... )

RwP
 

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Hmmm. I looked at Car-Part, so see if there was one at my local yard...


There's one in Dayton, which is about 30 miles from here. :)

1989
Brake Proportioning Valve
Dodge Dakota

REAR,ABOVE RAX ON LEFT FRAME RAIL,DROVE

$65 from these guys:

Charlie's Used Auto Parts & Recycling

I'd give them a call, and see if they ship.

:grin2:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
No report here. With no miles since adding oil and only looking at the engine from the top I don't see much yet.

Ok, so my sister bought me some Pittsburg Steeler floor mats (some kind of Seahawk fan's revenge?). Would rubber floor mats stop the ramp slippage? The Steeler mats don't really work aesthetically with my cars but I have been a fan of 'em.
 

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Put a concrete block in front of each ramp, or 4 pavers. It doesn't take much, just need a little resistance to get the car a few inches up the ramp, then the weight of the car takes over.

Always work on a level surface.

Al
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I just checked my ramps and they have flat painted sheet metal at the front so they are a bit slick the black rtv may be the next thing to try since I think I have some.
 
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