Just got done tonight with this swap guys. I used a set of mac longtubes that I picked up from Randy probably close to a year ago. I dont believe that they are the same part number that he used on his car. Pretty much I did not need to shim the motor mounts or use a BFH to make clearance with the floor boards. As far as steering shaft clearance goes I think I will be ok. On one of the many times I had to take the engine out of the car I stuck the steering shaft threw the header and it looked like it would clear just fine. If anything I will modify the angle that the column mounts to the firewall to make it work. I have that option since I'm building a race car. BUT I did have to modify the Kmember using a BFH and an air chisel near where the rag joint bolts to the rack to make clearance for one of the header tubes. Also I had to make clearance for the front sump of my aftermarket Milodon oil pan. Here are some pics of the install:
And, it looks as though they will work with GT40P heads? I'd much rather go with longtubes and really let the engine breathe with these heads and intake, I don't really want to bash in my floorpans with a BFH and need all the clearance I can get up top for the intake I'll be putting on to allow the heads to get enough air without cutting my hood up, so shimming is not an option.
So, these days there is even less to choose from. I see how the factory converter on driver's side is an abomination. I have high flow cats waiting to keep the air clean. Will any short headers work with custom down tubes after cat's are relocated or deleted? It's hard to guess what will fit with new down tubes.
Long tubes are cheaper and better by all comments. If you get uncoated pipes what pipe do you mash and how much to get the rest to fit? I know this will hurt at max flow but I just want to squeeze in the long tubes without a new hood and paint job. I was going to go ahead with a 94 -95 Cobra intake install and use silly putty or clay to see if I have room to raise the engine any more.
So, these days there is even less to choose from. I see how the factory converter on driver's side is an abomination. I have high flow cats waiting to keep the air clean. Will any short headers work with custom down tubes after cat's are relocated or deleted? It's hard to guess what will fit with new down tubes.
Long tubes are cheaper and better by all comments. If you get uncoated pipes what pipe do you mash and how much to get the rest to fit? I know this will hurt at max flow but I just want to squeeze in the long tubes without a new hood and paint job. I was going to go ahead with a 94 -95 Cobra intake install and use silly putty or clay to see if I have room to raise the engine any more.
If you get uncoated long tubes then simply remove the collector flange and either reposition it or weld the cats directly to the header and then put a flange on the other end of the cat in a position that works for you. Keep in mind that I'm not sure that you'll have room for the cats but it's worth a try if you feel the need to keep them.
As for engine clearance, it all depends. You'll have to measure to determine how much room you have now and how much you'll have after the Cobra intake. Once you know, you'll then know if you have the 1/2" or so to raise the engine to allow the long tubes to clear.
At this point these cars have fallen into pseudo hot rod status. If you want things to work you need to be prepared to start modifying things.
If you swap the stock rag joint out with the Flaming River U-Joint at the rack then you don't need to raise the engine and most likely don't need to use the BFH to clearance the floor pan (as much at least).
If you swap the stock rag joint out with the Flaming River U-Joint at the rack then you don't need to raise the engine and most likely don't need to use the BFH to clearance the floor pan (at much at least).
This is GREAT news! I'll be picking up a set of MAC LT's to install when I transplant my motor into my '90 SC. Was going to go with the SCP shorties but LT's are just as expensive and what I want anyway. Now I guess I'll be doing the Flaming River U-joint mod at the same time!
So, is it ONLY the MAC LT 1 5/8" PRI 2 1/2" COL for AOD Fox Mustang that works or would 1 3/4" PRI 3" COL work (or any other combo)? What about 5spd LT's?
I saw something about using the 87-93 Mac 5 speed header on the passenger side and the auto header on the driver side tkaes care of any clearance issues. Is this ideal or just order the tfa793’s and be done with it?
I saw something about using the 87-93 Mac 5 speed header on the passenger side and the auto header on the driver side tkaes care of any clearance issues. Is this ideal or just order the tfa793’s and be done with it?
Well, if you can get the mismatched parts to try out then it's always worth a try. If you just order the TFA793's then it's most likely going to fit.
Hindsight has shown me that shimming the K member about 1/2" and swapping the stock rag joint with the Flaming River U joint is probably the easiest path.
Does anyone have a part number and picture of the Flaming River U-Joint install? The Cougar has been in the shed for long enough - time to get her rolling again. Once I get the Long tubes test fit a 347ci. rotating assembly is getting ordered and block to the machine shop
Raising this dead horse to beat it once again. Guess what...MAC went it off business and these headers are nowhere to be found. I find these with a similar design, but who knows. Anyone care to take a look. Wish I would have purchased last time I resurrected this thread. BBK 86-93 Mustang 5.0L 1-5/8" Longtube Headers for Auto Trans (Ceramic)
I'd rather have 1 3/4 primary tubes, but guessing that's not going to happen.
Raising this dead horse to beat it once again. Guess what...MAC went it off business and these headers are nowhere to be found. I find these with a similar design, but who knows. Anyone care to take a look. Wish I would have purchased last time I resurrected this thread. BBK 86-93 Mustang 5.0L 1-5/8" Longtube Headers for Auto Trans (Ceramic)
I really haven't updated what I've learned over the years about this kind of thing. First, if the headers actually are for a Fox Mustang with an AOD then I'd be willing to give it a try. Second, there are quite a few things you'll need to do to make them fit but it's not as bad as what I did.
Plan to lower the K member and put in spacers. I recommend 1/2" aluminum bar that's 2" wide. Each piece needs to be about 8-10" long and you'll need to get the spacing for the holes. Matt knows the spacing for this because he's done it. You'll also need to get longer bolts for bolting the K member to the frame rails. Again, Matt.
Plan to replace the stock rag joint with the Flaming River U joint. This was one of the reasons I had to lift the engine. The other reason is that the passenger side header it the K member.
Be prepared to relocate the collector flange. The alternative is to use a BFH and clearance the floor pan a bit. If you don't weld then go with beating on the floor pan a bit.
Last thing and this is a stretch; you can get a bit more clearance for the steering shaft by using a longer extension on the U joint. Keep in mind that you're pushing the collapseable shaft further up and it's ultimately less safe like this but it's no worse than the other steering relocation idea.
Thanks MM! I'm looking at AFR heads, so those raise the ports 1/4", so thinking that will help too. I don't weld, so that makes things more difficult for me. If I have to do the more extreme steering mod, I'll do that. Again thanks for the reply!
I really haven't updated what I've learned over the years about this kind of thing. First, if the headers actually are for a Fox Mustang with an AOD then I'd be willing to give it a try. Second, there are quite a few things you'll need to do to make them fit but it's not as bad as what I did.
Plan to lower the K member and put in spacers. I recommend 1/2" aluminum bar that's 2" wide. Each piece needs to be about 8-10" long and you'll need to get the spacing for the holes. Matt knows the spacing for this because he's done it. You'll also need to get longer bolts for bolting the K member to the frame rails. Again, Matt.
Plan to replace the stock rag joint with the Flaming River U joint. This was one of the reasons I had to lift the engine. The other reason is that the passenger side header it the K member.
Be prepared to relocate the collector flange. The alternative is to use a BFH and clearance the floor pan a bit. If you don't weld then go with beating on the floor pan a bit.
Last thing and this is a stretch; you can get a bit more clearance for the steering shaft by using a longer extension on the U joint. Keep in mind that you're pushing the collapseable shaft further up and it's ultimately less safe like this but it's no worse than the other steering relocation idea.
Well, I'm now running a M5R2 and I have plenty of room around the transmission.
Honestly, it's all about experimenting and knowing what the pain points are going to be. Like I said before, plan on lowering the K member about a 1/2" or more. Plan on using the Flaming River U joint instead of the stock rag joint. Know that the steering shaft will probably have to go through the headers. Beyond that it's all just working through the problems.
I drilled the holes on the fly, I just lowered the K member a little and traced the holes onto a scrap piece of wood, I then used as a template to drill the spacers, nothing fancy.
With regard to transmission, if headers clear an automatic they’ll clear a manual (with room to spare).
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