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1994 Cougar XR7 DOHC/5-Speed
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Only pieces of the dash that NEED to come off to remove it is the knee panel to access the nut secured to the e-brake(or dead pedal) and the top cowl piece to get the bolts along the cowl. Every other nut/bolt and harness attachment point is accessible around it.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
The cluster had something spilled on it years ago that left little dots clouding the guages, so it needed to come out. And not knowing how heavy the column was, I figured it was best to get it out of the way and it's just a few bolts.

I'm hoping to get some help Saturday to pull the dash, fuel tank and maybe motor and trans. That might be a bit too ambitious, we'll see.
 

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Maybe I missed it, but why are things like the dash and glass coming out? Seems excessive just to re-finish a car, especially the glass. I can't imagine re-installing glass, especially when it wasn't really necessary to remove.

Al
 

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1994 Cougar XR7 DOHC/5-Speed
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Maybe I missed it, but why are things like the dash and glass coming out? Seems excessive just to re-finish a car, especially the glass. I can't imagine re-installing glass, especially when it wasn't really necessary to remove.

Al
on Cougars the trim around the window overlaps the sheetmetal and the only way to remove and install it is to take the window out. Same for the quarter windows, the sections with the chrome trim overlap the sheetmetal. Masking these off is a half assed way to do it and will lead to peeling down the road.

As for the dash I’m guessing with the rust repair he’s painting the interior, and gutting it bare avoids getting overspray on the plastics.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Maybe I missed it, but why are things like the dash and glass coming out? Seems excessive just to re-finish a car, especially the glass. I can't imagine re-installing glass, especially when it wasn't really necessary to remove.
Matt is correct. This is a complete restoration. The k member and rear subframe are coming off as well. Even if there was a decent way to leave windows in, I would not be. I'm making this as easy as I can for the shop to save some cash, and my estimate is this will be $12-15k to fix the rust and paint the car.

I'm actually going to pick up the donor car Saturday, assuming it's as clean as it looks in pictures. I'll be taking the driver side quarter, passenger side floors and any structure under the rockers that's needed. I'll likely use the trunk lid as mine has holes from a luggage rack that I never liked. And various other bits here and there. The rest will end up for sale and it sounds like lots of good parts on it. I almost hate to tear into it as it seems like a very fixable car... But it's not my first car...
 

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1997 Thunderbird LX
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I'm hoping to get some help Saturday to pull the dash, fuel tank and maybe motor and trans. That might be a bit too ambitious, we'll see.
It's a long weekend, go for it! (y)

Joe
 
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Discussion Starter #27
So finally had some time to get back at the car. Dash is out and thankfully not broken any more, although I might still try to find a better one.

I had one nut that spun the carrier bolt out in the heater box. That sucks, let me tell you. All pedals out, save for the parking brake. Wiring is ready to come out once I get it out of the doors. I must say that is the most difficult part of the wiring. Illuminated key holes are great until you have to get the wiring out.

Question; what is the best way to remove the windows from the doors? They are in the up position and of course I have no power...I could hook some up if it's needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
As you can see the heavy rust is in the wiring channel and on the cross support. I'll have to get those off the donor car. And here is the reason I'm going to this in depth restoration. Where the rust is visible from the outside 😭

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The driver side is worse, but I didn't take a shot of that.
Here is the engine bay with nearly everything but the engine and trans removed. The one wrench I am missing from both sets is the 12mm needed for the brake line on the block.
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And a parting shot before I mowed Mom's yard. Figured I could do that since I'm using her electricity when I work on the car. I'd get a lot done if she lived closer. Driving an hour each way chews up a bit of time.

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Hopefully removing the power train this coming weekend!
 

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Easiest way to get the windows out at this point would be to just remove the motor and slide the window down in the channel to access the nuts for the glass.
 
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Discussion Starter #31
Thanks, I assumed as much. Hoping to have some help to hold the glass up as I drill the rivets out. That or duct tape will have to do.
 

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No need to drill the rivets out. There are 3 8mm bolts that hold the motor into the regulator, and then the motor pops out. Once the motor is out, slide the window down until you see the 2 bolts that hold the glass to the regulator, tilt the window forward, and lift straight up and out.
 
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Discussion Starter #33
Well, much progress made. I'm to the point I've been scared of. Time to call the body shop to have a look. It's salvageable, no doubt. Just not sure I have the funds, or am willing to pay the funds needed to fix it.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
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Light surface rust in the joints that aren't fully welded, or seam sealed. Some of it's thicker than I'd like to see. Not sure if it's bad enough to need to cut the pieces it and replace from my donor car. The shop will determine that. It's nice to see room for future activities though 😁
 

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Discussion Starter #35
And here is the bottom of the car where the major issues are...
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Had to use a 4*4 to extend the range of my Jack. It stuck to the bolt on the sub. This is by far the worst part. It does stop at the floor.
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Some guys into the lower floor seam in front of the gas tank
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Seems to be mostly surface

Passenger side is is better, thinking just the rockers here.

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Then the other floor pan, front passenger side.
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Then the notorious rear shock mount on the passenger side. It looked the rust on the inside, but nothing slowing on the outside.
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Overall a successful day getting tank, driveshaft, motor and trans out. Then started the brakes lines and fuel lines and got most of that out.

Also, check out my Race ramps. Best 220 bucks I've ever spent on auto work. Think these are the 10" version. Maybe weight is 3# each. Super easy to move and great for access to anything underbody.

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That driver's rocker scares me! Everything else is minor and easy to deal with. I don't see any way of fixing that so it doesn't come back without cutting the quarter panel off the car.
 
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Discussion Starter #39
That Quarter needs replaced anyway, so that will help access. Plus my parts car is basically rust free in that area from what I can see since it's a southern car. So I have the pieces, just finding someone who wants to go that deep and not charge 20k will be the challenge.

If I could get it dipped, I would. Not sure there's anywhere around me that does that. I have a guy that I haven't talked to for a few years that I'm going to ask to look at it first. If he doesn't want the project, I'm hoping he can lead me in the right direction. I just knew as bad as that particular area was that I needed to tear the car down so thatb it could be looked at completely and save money doing tear down myself.

I really wish I could do sheet metal repair. I really enjoy the car resto shows that have quality technicians. Kindig is fun to watch sure to the detail. I have that mindset, but lack the tools and welding knowledge.

Maybe when I retire...
 

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This place is in Oregon. Idk where you are located. Im looking at a place in NC for my 96, when I get around to the full build on it.
Get it take down first. Cut out the obvious areas. Brace it. Then trailer it to where you choose. Thats my plan for the 96 at least.

If I had more time, space, and a better welder, Id offer to help with welding it back together.
 
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