TCCoA Forums banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,113 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Been awhile since I been on. It's that time again to do the head gaskets. Seems I should have replaced the head bolts at the time I did the last head gaskets.

What I was wondering is it worth putting in $70 for a pair of 94-98 Mustang headers to replace the stock ones? Does it really make that much difference?

Since we are keeping the car, I would like to put new dual exhaust on the car at some point and since I will have the heads off, would it be worth dropping a pair of mustang heads on in future thoughts of getting new dual exhaust? I currently have the v6 exhaust up to the resonance muffler then it is V8 exhaust all the way back.

Suggestions?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,651 Posts
The mustang heads and headers are no better than the tbird parts. If you want better flow, get some 94/95 SC manifolds.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,113 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Excellent. Thank you for the info, it really helps.
 

·
̇
Joined
·
3,701 Posts
94-95 (3.8L) MN12 exhaust manifolds are the same NA or SC..

For the little gain you would receive from trying to get the 94-98 (3.8L) Mustang exhaust manifolds to work..It wouldn't be worth it IMO..

Think about this..You would need someone to make you custom down tubes just to fit a pair of stock 94-98 (3.8L) Mustang exhaust manifolds..

Basically build you a custom exhaust from the exhaust manifolds to the resonator..

Then if you wanted to keep your EGR..You would have to find a good used EGR pipe too..


Dave on sccoa did a test and the 94-95 exhaust manifolds were real close to kooks mid-length headers. The 96-97 3.8L MN12 tubular ones didn't do so good.

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=84623&highlight=exhaust+manifold
My advice is to just port a pair of 94-95 (3.8L) MN12 exhaust manifolds, and be done with it..






Rayo..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,113 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I have had my car for some 17 years and have done nothing to it but keep it running. One reason I never modified it is because without major work, there is little that can be done to increase power in this engine / drive train.

Cold air intake may look cool, but unless you run the engine at high RPM's, there is not much gain. Same to be said about exhaust and intake, not much to be gained without major mods.

So I will pull the heads, clean her all up and put her back together (again) and keep her running for another 17 years.... oh, I may get it painted. Clear coat and paint is going at a rapid rate due to global warming... :rofl:

Thanks guys for proving that without spending real money to modify this car, I would just be wasting money.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,113 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
rebuild

I got the heads off and found the lower drivers side head bolts were not tight. The upper bolts of the block were fine. The passenger side was fine, all 8 bolts where very tight, as they should be.

I can understand the heads leaking on the drivers side, but not the passenger side. All I can suspect is that the leakage happened after the car cooled down because the spark plugs in 3 and 6 where fowled and rusty.

As I mentioned, it is possible that even though the head bolts I had on the car originally were re-usable, they may have not been good enough after years of use to re-use again.

I have some parts to order and will get the car back up and running by next weekend of sooner.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
284 Posts
when you have them off.

It sounds like the right side is warped have a machine shop look at it.

If you do send them to a machine shop it would be a good thing to let them replace all the valve guide seals as well.

To get them out of the way because of the age on them not just that while the heads are off it makes it easy to do them then and there for a peace of mind.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,113 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
when you have them off.

It sounds like the right side is warped have a machine shop look at it.

If you do send them to a machine shop it would be a good thing to let them replace all the valve guide seals as well.

To get them out of the way because of the age on them not just that while the heads are off it makes it easy to do them then and there for a peace of mind.
What sucks is I had the heads planed back at 114k. It now has 138k. That is just crap. And at $200 to do it... I'd rather put it all back together and get rid of it.

Damn V6 engines!

I put a straight edge over them last night and if they are off, it is very slight. Wish I had a better straight edge.

Thanks though, I appreciate the thought.

The drivers side bolts where a bit lose, but the passenger side require a 1/2" breaker bar to get them lose. I am going to replace the bolts with new ones and let it go at that.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top