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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello, all.
Today, While I was driving street, suddenly, battery light came on, and no power steering, and temperature guage went up higher than usual, No AC also.
When I opened the hood, one of the belt was broken from the thing from the almost top of the engine. I guess that is the alternator??? Sorry, I am really ignorant. I can still start the car.
Do you think that I need to change only alternator belt or serpentine belt? and Could you give me a rought estimate to change the belt including labor and part?
Thank you!!
 

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You can start the car, but do NOT drive it like that. You have nothing charging your electrical system but more importantly your water pump is not working! The belt should cost about $20 and all you need is a 1/2" square drive breaker bar or something of the sort to change it. A shop should only charge 0.2 hours or something like that.
 

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You only have one belt, so your water pump, alternator, AC compressor, and power steering pump wasn't turning.

All that is needed is the belt and a 1/2" drive breaker bar (or a ratchet, but a breaker bar gives you more leverage). Somewhere on the front of the radiator support there should be a label that shows the routing. It probably wouldn't hurt to have someone hold the breaker bar while you route the belt. All you do is pry the tensioner pulley out of the way by putting the 1/2" drive into the square hole, route the belt, and release the tensioner pulley. That's it.

Those are "quick and dirty" instructions, but it is real easy to change you just have to make sure you get the belt routed the right way and all the way on the pulleys.

An example (T'Bird may be different):


Hope that helps. :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thank you very much for your answers.
I've just called local mechanic, and he told me that belt pully???? or AC or something could be locked up, and that can be a reason why belt is broken.
He said maximum it can be $600-700. What do you think?
Actually, for last 20 days or so, I smelled the rubber burning when I start the car. Do you have any idea? Thank you.
 

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Really depends. If you smelled burning rubber, it may very well be the A/C compressor clutch is locked up. But usually you will also hear a nasty whine at the same time.

Since the belt is off, a simple check is to reach down and see if all the pulleys will spin easily. All of the pulleys should spin easily (except the crankshaft of course) with no grinding, binding, or anything.

On a side note, what engine do you have? A V6 or a V8? Have you done a 3.8L to 4.2L upgrade? If so, I'm not real up to date on the V6's, so you might want to wait for some other people's replies. :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Thank you for your answer.
Mine is V8. No upgrade or any modification.
I've just checked under hood. All looks like moving freely but one big wheel down at the engine. It looks like crank pulley. And also Belt tensioner, I guess, (it is not attached to anything such as alternator) does not freely move.
What do you think? If I should fix that tensioner and replace belt, Do you have any estimate for mechanic? Thank you alot.
 

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I would go ahead and replace just the belt myself and start it up with the A/C turned off.

Then turn on the A/C and see if you get any noises/smells. The compressor itself could be seized but the clutch still working properly.

If everything is good, you should be ok, and if not you should know it immediately. If it only makes noises when the A/C is on, you can at least drive it with the A/C off and not do any damage. (Just remember that with the defrost on, the A/C also runs) If the compressor is bad, then you will be looking at a repair bill for the A/C!! :beek:

If you’re not going to do you own labor, I would talk to the mechanic and have him show you the A/C compressor is bad before I authorized any work beyond replacing the belt. (I inherently don’t trust mechanics!!)

Good luck!! :thumbsup:
 

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You won't be able to turn the crank pulley by hand unless you put a breaker bar on it, and that is normal. If all the others turn freely, then just go get a new belt put on, or pick one up at the parts store and do it yourself.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thank you for your answer.
It looks like belt tensioner or idler wheel(I guess that is belt tensioner or idler wheel since it is not attached to anything such as alternator) is stuck. For last 20 days, I heard some rubber noises (pitch of noise changes according to engine speed)
Mechanic told me that if belt pulley is out, it will be $230 for belt pulley and belt. Is it reasonable?
 

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From RockAuto (AutoZone and the such should be close):
Belt = $25
Belt Tensioner = $40
Belt Idler = $15

So $80 in parts... The idler pulley is held on by one bolt, the tensioner pulley is held on by 3 bolts.... All of which are easy to get to.

The price quoted sounds "correct" by today's rates. :redmad: But does it sound "reasonable".... $150 for about 20 minutes of work? Not in my book! But if you're not comfortable doing it, then that is probably about the going rate. But it really isn't that hard.

Shoot, post this over in the "Texas" forum here and you might be local to someone that could lend a hand. Can't hurt to ask. We're a good group here always willing to help. :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thank you very much you guys. You guys are great.
I am in San Antonio. I've just wrote for help in Texas forum.
I really hope that somebody in this forum can help me out.
Thank you.

Excellent suggestion. Where in Texas are you?
 

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That sucks, I was just down in San Antonio a few weeks ago. I just did mine a few months ago because the pulley was not spinning as well. Good luck, but if you have the correct tools, it will not be hard at all.

Stephen
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thank you all. I'll just wait and see if somebody can help me. I'll post here if I get somebody to help me. Until then, if anyone can help me, pleaes let me know.
Thank you!!
 

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You can change the pulley on the tensioner, without having to replace the tensioner arm. It is the same part number as the idler pulley. These should cost around $13.00 each. If it were me, I would replace both the tensioner arm pulley and the idler pulley.

You can easily do the entire job yourself in under 30 minutes.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I really wish that I can fix it by myself. However, I don't have any experiences on car repair. If somebody can help me out this time, I'll take a careful look at what he is doing, so that at least I can do the same repair next time.
Thank you.


You can change the pulley on the tensioner, without having to replace the tensioner arm. It is the same part number as the idler pulley. These should cost around $13.00 each. If it were me, I would replace both the tensioner arm pulley and the idler pulley.

You can easily do the entire job yourself in under 30 minutes.
 

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Do you know how to use a socket wrench, or a combination wrench?

It will take only two tools to replace the pulley and belt. It's kinda hard to mess up, and there's even a diagram of the belt routing displayed in the engine compartment.

Hate to say it but........ it's so easy a caveman could do it.....lol
 
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