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Ok to start off I bought a 95 cougar with the 4.6 in it at an auction it was red lighted meaning many problems I have had good luck with other cougars and t-birds just haveing silly problems that where easy to fix now I think this one has a few easy problems, But I am kinda stumped this car is wore out but it has 106,000 true miles:
1. But to start we got it with a spare on the driverside rear tire and well I got a junkyard rim and ever since then it has this awful vibration every now and then that shakes the whole rear of the car now this is very sporadic It doesnt seem to happen under certain conditions but if you accelerated when it happens it quits alot quicker, Now I do not know if it happened before cause we didnt drive it with the spare and I have no clue why the spare was on.

2. The next problem the low coolant light always comes on and this car has plenty coolant in it and it never over heats. The only condition I thought this had was under hard acceleration but my wife say it happen without the acceleration now.

3. The final stumper (for me)when you brake and sit still the red check gauges light comes on and the oil pressure drops to nothing, when you accelerate it goes back to normal, this is what gets me though the oil pressure seems to drop but the car doesnt stop when my oil pump quit on my SC the motor stopped too, I am more an SC,and 5.0 guy so I would appreciate any help with this. I was thinking the that the last 2 problems where elctrical I just dont know where to start.
 

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sloth92 said:
Ok to start off I bought a 95 cougar with the 4.6 in it at an auction it was red lighted meaning many problems I have had good luck with other cougars and t-birds just haveing silly problems that where easy to fix now I think this one has a few easy problems, But I am kinda stumped this car is wore out but it has 106,000 true miles:


2. The next problem the low coolant light always comes on and this car has plenty coolant in it and it never over heats. The only condition I thought this had was under hard acceleration but my wife say it happen without the acceleration now.

3. The final stumper (for me)when you brake and sit still the red check gauges light comes on and the oil pressure drops to nothing, when you accelerate it goes back to normal, this is what gets me though the oil pressure seems to drop but the car doesnt stop when my oil pump quit on my SC the motor stopped too, I am more an SC,and 5.0 guy so I would appreciate any help with this. I was thinking the that the last 2 problems where elctrical I just dont know where to start.
I would wager the float switch in the reseviour is toast on the low coolant. On the check gauges sounds like you oil is low and sloshing away from the pick up tube on braking/acceleration. On the vibration it could be a number of different things...is the car trac lock?
 

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sloth92 said:
1. But to start we got it with a spare on the driverside rear tire and well I got a junkyard rim and ever since then it has this awful vibration every now and then that shakes the whole rear of the car now this is very sporadic It doesnt seem to happen under certain conditions but if you accelerated when it happens it quits alot quicker, Now I do not know if it happened before cause we didnt drive it with the spare and I have no clue why the spare was on.
You might just need to get the wheels balanced. There could also be issues with the mounts for the driveline components or some other issue.
sloth92 said:
2. The next problem the low coolant light always comes on and this car has plenty coolant in it and it never over heats.
I agree with timb. That switch probably isn't working anymore. If you want you can just unplug the switch to turn off the light until you get a new one.
sloth92 said:
3. The final stumper (for me)when you brake and sit still the red check gauges light comes on and the oil pressure drops to nothing, when you accelerate it goes back to normal
Either you are low on oil or there is a problem with the sending unit or its connection. Check the oil level first and if all is well, look into the sending unit.
 

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sloth92 said:
3. The final stumper (for me)when you brake and sit still the red check gauges light comes on and the oil pressure drops to nothing, when you accelerate it goes back to normal, this is what gets me though the oil pressure seems to drop but the car doesnt stop when my oil pump quit on my SC the motor stopped too, I am more an SC,and 5.0 guy so I would appreciate any help with this. I was thinking the that the last 2 problems where elctrical I just dont know where to start.

You need to put a mechanical gauge on that to see if its the sender or not. If not the sender that is a classic bad oil pump or a bad rod or main bearing symptom. If the car sits overnight does it knock for a second upon the first cold start?
 

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Don't all these 4.6's make a rattling noise when they are first started after sitting for 12 hours? When the oil is rising to the top, but the first second, it's pretty 'dry' at the top.

Also, as far as your vibration going away when you accelerate, that sounds like torque converter shudder. Does it tend to do it when pulling a hill or something in 3rd gear, or just mainly at lower RPM? Maybe even overdrive sometimes? You are saying, when it starts the shuddering, you can accelerate (probably make it gear down a gear) and it goes away?

I know you've said you've been into thunderbirds/cougars a lot, so you might already know this, but TC Shudder is very, very common in these cars, and that's a definite sign to hurry and change the tranny fluid.

I, too, bought my car at an auction. Drove horrible, minus the torque converter shudder. Got it for cheap (mint interior, perfect body, V8 4.6, and ground effects, I couldn't say no)

After new plugs/wires/MAF/fixing that common vacuum leak in the back, the shuddering started. I changed the fluid, completely fixed it, and haven't had any problems out of it since (except having to change the oil filter adapter gasket).
 

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Discussion Starter #7
This is embarassing but the problem with the oil was the car was quarts low I do not know where the oil went either cause I change the oil 2 months ago and I cant find any leaks or oil in the water I do not know why it didnt dawn on me to check the oil I feel pretty dumb, the good thing is that it never made any sort of bottom end or top end noise that was weird so I guess I lucked out there.

The shudder comes from the rear end not up front near the engine it shakes the whole rear end like when your tire has a knot on it. but it is very sporadic

Thankyou guys for the help also I would have been sad about the motor blowing and now I know we need to keep a watchful eye on it
 

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The oil went down the valve guides most likely. You probably leave a large cloud of blue smoke behind you everytime you leave a stop. Its a common 4.6 problem. Glad to see you caught it in time.
 

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Where is the oil going?

On the 94/5 models, the valve seals are probably shot, which is very common. When mine had the original motor in it, it did the same thing, but I didn't see any smoke comming out the tail pipes. I then had the duals put on without cats. Boy did the smoke show up then! After it sat at a light or any idle time, as soon as I took off, it was mosquito killing time. It's probably smoking like mine, but the cats are catching it so you don't see it.

"Flame suit on"
At my next oil change, I replaced one quart of oil with one quart of Lucas oil Stabilizer. It stopped the smoking and oil consumption in it's tracks. No oil foaming or engine rattles or any bad things others say may happen when using the Lucas. I had to replace the motor for a bone-head mechanic mistake (engines can't eat screws and live to tell about it).
"Flame suit off"

I have also read that others have slowed it down by using the High mileage oils that have additives to revitalize the seals.

As far as the vibration, I'd get the tires balanced first, then start looking at things like bad u-joints, half-shafts, diff. mounts, and rear wheel bearings.

Rob
 

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My orginal engine, with 160K on it, didn't rattle on start-up either and I used 10w-40.

Rob
 
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