TCCoA Forums banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I would like to know if anyone has done a manifold swap on a '95 4.6 to resolve the EGR valve access issue and will the '97 manifold and pipe fit without mods?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,740 Posts
In theory you can just swap the EGR tube onto the 94/95 manifold, but I have never been able to get the old one off, so I would just swap the whole exhaust manifold with the EGR tube from a 96/97 car. Both sets of manifolds come out in the same spot, so you can re-use your existing y-pipe.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for your response, I guess what I was really suggesting was the intake manifold swap, it appears to me on my 95 4.6 EGR is located between the firewall in the back end of the intake manifold so what in theory what I was asking was can you swap the entire intake manifold from a 95 to a 97 without any mods and thereby having had relocated the EGR valve to a more accessible spot on the top of the intake manifold as it is on a 97 4.6?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,740 Posts
Yes, I understand what you were asking. You can swap to the newer style intake manifold, however if you want to keep EGR, you must also swap to the 96/97 EGR tube. The metal tube will not magically move to the new location just by changing the intake manifold. However since the EGR tube is attached to the exhaust manifold via a large nut that was overtightened 25 years ago, and that is located in a position between the engine and the firewall with about a half inch on either side, and it has spent the last 25 years rusting into place, you simply are not going to be able to remove the EGR tube from your existing exhaust manifold. As such, the solution is to remove your right side exhaust manifold with the EGR tube still attached, and remove a right side exhaust manifold from a 96/97 4.6 Tbird or Cougar, and swap the complete exhaust manifold into your car at the same time as you do the intake manifold swap.
 

·
Super Moderator
1994 Cougar XR7 DOHC/5-Speed
Joined
·
17,856 Posts
I wouldn’t say that with certainty, I have actually had pretty good luck unscrewing the tube from the exhaust manifold without any drama, all Illinois cars, all cooled off, never even needed heat or penetrating oil. Only time I damaged a tube was actually removing it from the EGR valve itself on a 94-95, twisted right off at the corrugated part.

It can be a problem in the unlikely but possible scenario that the adapter gives from the exhaust manifold rather than the tube giving from the adapter, if that happens unbeknownst to you you’ll destroy the tube if you keep turning
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
292 Posts
What's the motivation? Performance issues? Check engine light? I've removed and cleaned my 95 LX 4.6 EGR tube to resolve check engine light codes and renew the registration. It wasn't easy, but seems it would be easier than a complete exhaust manifold and intake manifold job. At least as Plan A.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,993 Posts
I tried to clean the EGR tube on the car - it couldn't be done. 220k miles of baked on oil deposits would not blow out, despite days of soaking in GM top engine cleaner, and hitting it with 120 psi.

If you're at about 150k or less, you can still clean out the port on the back of the intake manifold and the throttle body housing channels. Very tedious and time consuming picking at that baked on crud, but worth it in the end.

Al
 

·
Super Moderator
1997 Thunderbird 4.6, 1998 Mark VIII LSC
Joined
·
9,653 Posts
Here's a little story about the one time I had to remove the EGR pipe.

So, A certain former transmission guy on here once told me my EGR tube was cracked (to cover for his inability to properly tighten the exhaust downpipes to the manifolds). Initially I took him at his word because I could see that there was a thin, dark black line across one side of it, so I sourced a replacement tube then removed it.

Unfortunately, as I was loosening the manifold nut (and probably because I had already removed the tube from the EVR), the pope was just spinning with the nut as I loosened it. Because I had assumed it was cracked I didn't care, so I just cut the end off and continued taking it off. As it turns out I wasn't actually loosening the nut at all - I was un-threading the pipe nipple/coupler that screwed into the bung on the manifold. The threads on the thing were completely destroyed as I took it out. Fortunately the threads inside the manifold were undamaged and the couplers were available new from Ford at the time so it wasn't a big deal to get a replacement. Once I got the pipe off the car (in two pieces) I saw it wasn't cracked at all - it just had a burn mark on it. I was pretty mad that I was put through the hassle and cost of replacing the pipe needlessly.

Point being - sure, it will come out. Just be prepared for the unexpected.

Oh, and here's a pic of that coupler and how it was destroyed as I removed it. I can't remember if I had to cut the nut off to get the end of the EGR pipe off it or not, but I am pretty sure I did because it was on there TIGHT.

39099
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
292 Posts
95 tbird4.6 - There's some posts with pictures on this site from three and a half years ago when I did mine. Check them out if you are interested in undertaking an EGR tube job. - Jim
MVC-819S.JPG
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,993 Posts
The part I had trouble with was those little metal tubes. IIRC, there is an orifice inside them which severely limits your ability to push a wire down the tube, Actually, the wire wouldn't go down it at all, despite days of soaking.

What is weird is the code for the EGR has just come on. The way they were clogged, the code should have been on for years.

Al
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
I tried to clean the EGR tube on the car - it couldn't be done. 220k miles of baked on oil deposits would not blow out, despite days of soaking in GM top engine cleaner, and hitting it with 120 psi.

If you're at about 150k or less, you can still clean out the port on the back of the intake manifold and the throttle body housing channels. Very tedious and time consuming picking at that baked on crud, but worth it in the end.

Al
I cleaned out the port on the back of the intake manifold and the TB housing channels on my 94 Tbird, now I have a check engine light for too much EGR flow. Any clues?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
What's the motivation? Performance issues? Check engine light? I've removed and cleaned my 95 LX 4.6 EGR tube to resolve check engine light codes and renew the registration. It wasn't easy, but seems it would be easier than a complete exhaust manifold and intake manifold job. At least as Plan A.
Well my motivation is actually two fold, yes of course I have the check engine light with the EGR code but it seems to me as well a case of bad engineering and swapping to the newer intake manifold relocates that EGR valve in a more accessible spot for maintenance to the top of the engine rather than between the back of the engine intake manifold and the firewall.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,993 Posts
I cleaned out the port on the back of the intake manifold and the TB housing channels on my 94 Tbird, now I have a check engine light for too much EGR flow. Any clues?
Yeah, enjoy the increased gas mileage! When I had the "excessive EGR flow" on my old 95, I got a good 2-3 MPG more, got as high as 31.5 on the hwy and 24 city. The code will go away eventually.

Al
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top