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Discussion Starter #1
We are gathering parts for the Spring, when we get the car out from storage and can get ready for Landspeed racing and drag racing.

We need the following used parts.

Drivetrain: The 03-04 Marauder appears to be the correct combination of HP, TQ, and weight to be just right for us to grow into
Ring and Pinion Gear set, 3.73 and 3.89, and also looking for a set of 2.47:1 Richmond Excel preferred, we have a Richmond install kit, but we will take anything reasonable.
Ring and Pinion:
3.73 FOMOCO # CL5Z-4209-B (3.73)
3.89---
247---

The 03-04 Marauder Torque Converter appears to be the correct combination of HP, TQ, and weight to be just right for us to grow into.

Converter Part # Hi Stall (about 3200rpm)
First choice: 4W1Z-7902-AARM (03-04 Marauder)
Second Choice: F8L2-7902-BARM (various years, SVT Cobra, Mach 1, GT, Bulitt, MarkVIII)
Third: F8AZ-7902-AARM (various years Crown victoria Police Interceptor
Flexplate Part # FL3Y-6375-A
TC Bolts F1AZ-6579-A

Engine:
Alternator
PI Intake Manifold, Alternator bracket, Cooling tube and stuff needed to make it work out.
96-97 Upper Plenum
96-97 Throttle Body
EGR valve
EGR solenoid
Tuner: Prefer SCT X4 but will look at any product


Chassis:
Mustang BC CV Half Shafts
F+R lowering springs
Any Chassis braces, especially engine cradle and Torsion
Injectors, Newer style Deka minimum 30lbs, prefer Siemens 60-80lb units
Safety Harness Bar
Safety Harnesses, Harnesses
2 helmets, medium sized

Exhaust:
Headers (any style)
Downpipes
Crossover (x-pipe) 2.5
Intermediate pipes 2.5
Tail pipes 2.5
Mufflers 2.5
Cutouts 2.5

Thanks!!
 

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Ring and Pinion Gear set, 3.73 and 3.89, and also looking for a set of 2.47:1 Richmond Excel preferred, we have a
Summit racing; you'll never get a used one to work correctly.

The 03-04 Marauder Torque Converter appears to be the correct combination of HP, TQ, and weight to be just right for us to grow into.
A 10 year+ old TC is not something I'd buy; Circle D or other's, new.

Flexplate Part # FL3Y-6375-A - JY or Summit or Modular Headshop.
TC Bolts F1AZ-6579-A - Ford.

Engine:
Alternator - Get a rebuild kit for your alternator, used is going to be in the same shape as yours.

PI Intake Manifold, Alternator bracket, Cooling tube and stuff needed to make it work out.
Additional parts: 2V NPI to PI Swap Kit

96-97 Upper Plenum = there is no separate upper plenum.
96-97 Throttle Body JY part, or spend crazy cash for something that adds no HP.

You also need the fuel lines.
EGR valve - JY or ford
EGR solenoid - JY or ford
Tuner: Prefer SCT X4 but will look at any product - EBAY


Chassis:
Mustang BC CV Half Shafts - Those won't work.
F+R lowering springs - Never heard of them
Any Chassis braces, especially engine cradle and Torsion - Rod might make some more someday; JL died.
Injectors, Newer style Deka minimum 30lbs, prefer Siemens 60-80lb units - LOL, EBAY You will never need 60 or 80 lb injectors in a 95 set of heads without a HUGE blower.
Safety Harness Bar - Make
Safety Harnesses, Harnesses - Buy from MMR or other race company
2 helmets, medium sized - Summit

Exhaust:
Headers (any style) - only headers that fit are from SCP, kooks. Mustang headers will not fit.
Downpipes - Custom, from local muffler shop.
Crossover (x-pipe) 2.5 - Custom, from local muffler shop.
Intermediate pipes 2.5 - Custom, from local muffler shop.
Tail pipes 2.5 - Custom, from local muffler shop.
Mufflers 2.5 - Custom, from local muffler shop.
Cutouts 2.5 -Summit

Thanks!! - Learn to look in the catalogs, like everyone else.

That's it for spoon feeding, all else you'll need to dig for.
 

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BTW, the xcal 4 is overkill for our cars; you won't be able to use the canned tunes, so searching for a cheaper Xcal2 will be better.
Make sure it's unlocked, or you have to pay $150 to send it back to SCT to be unlocked.

There's more info in the EEC thread, as well as a howto on datalogging.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Grog,

Thanks for the reply.

I have been looking in the catalogs, I was hoping to find somebody's unwanted parts for a project that did not or will not be finished...I know that is dreaming some but it makes sense to ask given my economic situation. The worst that can be said is no.

To your comments:

I thought R+P should be new, but my local mechanical shop owner/operator says they do it frequently without trouble. Looking at the catalogs, I can get new ones for double a used price but I think you are right, it seems like a bad idea to me too.
I did my homework on the TC, beyond the stickys on here. Jerry W's white paper is a great resource. Again, I was hoping somebody has one on the shelf, and has no plans for it.

I didn't know the 96 has no plenum, thanks. We don't flow enough for any MAF change unless for fitment, and we need the EGR parts for the original manifold.
We have not decided to PI head swap or re-engine. We do want to put just the PI manifold someday on ours, so we need to start finding the pieces for that eventual mod
The CV half shafts need to have Mustang Bolt circle, MN12 dimensions. Sure grip has new ones for 55.00, we were hoping for an orphaned set.
We can't afford new Eibachs from SCCP but we sure want them, same with any bracing, the smallest piece is 170 bucks,
I was an Industrial Electrical control and automation guy. I have no metal fabricating skills or the spec for a harness bar, If you have a spec, I have a guy that can do it. We have to pass Tech at the Maine Event in July. Our cars are wider than the standard 48" units at Summit, so I need advice for choosing the proper one if I buy a commercial piece. We will find helmets someplace, and get harnesses at Summit if nobody has any.
Our local garage--Owner/operator claims that the Siemens Deka EV6/EV1 80# spec is unmatched for programmability and atomization performance. If the smaller sizes are cheaper I would buy them. Usually smaller than 80 is More expensive than 80..we might need 30lb Max units way in the future, but thats not the point. I welcome any and all advice on this.
I get different opinions on the Exhaust Cat forward, and I have put headers on as 1st mod every time...I wish I knew someone with shotry's of clipsters installed or pictures of one. Even if they flow no better, I would consider space freed up underhood worth it. We will not discard the cats, but will delete #3 cat and use the Tubing kits from Trubendz, or Mandrelbendz you all recommended me to.

I didn't ask to be spoon-fed my friend, and I know your intention is to help.
I just wanted to start buying parts from people that are into these cars like we are, and not buy from people that do not.
In New Hampshire, we are flinty Yankees...Our thinking is always that if we need something, is there a friend that can benefit from supplying it. This works for goods and services and it is also reversible and quite appropriate for the barter minded folks like us.

And I am cheap, not lazy.
Money or time, never united.

Thanks again for the help, I hope I get lucky and find a couple of discards, from projects gone unfinshed.

Best regards,
Rocketdog
 

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Ok; here we go...

The 95 maf is one of the worst; if you want to tune your car, you will want an 02 maf from an 02 car; the transfer curve is better, and it has more range, it uses a cone filter, and can be modifyed to pull air thru the same hole Our air comes thru, keeping it a cold air intake.
You do have to have a tune to make it work.

An 80# injector is great, if you need an 80 lb injector.
But, the minimum time it can be open is fixed, so the fueling on an engine that will never use 30% of it's range is going to be pitiful.
You want an injector that never quite hits 85% of the maximum flow; anything else will make it almost impossible to tune at idle, or just above.
You need a tune to change injectors.

I tune my cars, so I know. I'm running 24lb injectors in 2 cars; they never see 60% of maximum flow.

A PI intake will be a great mod; it will increase power where yours fall flat at over 5000 rpm.
The 95 heads are the worst of the lot; the valve guide actuation angle is off, so they wear guides.

If you aren't doing a PI headswap, you should consider a 96-97 headswap, and get all the 96 parts for the fueling you need off the same car.

You'll need the fuel lines back to the fuel filter/tank area for the PI swap, as well as the inlet tube, throttle body, EGR tube, and everything else that attaches to the intake, including the vacuum lines.
You need a donor 96-97.

You don't want a used TC. God knows what it's been thru; that goes for most other parts as well.
You'll want to rebuild them before you use them, they're over 20 years old.

YOu should spend a week searching and reading threads; All this info is here.
 

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If you are looking to get the mustang bolt pattern you do not need cv shafts. Shafts side into the rear hub. Just take yours of, get new bearings and studs. Pop the old ones out and redrill to the correct pattern.
 

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If you want the rear hubs, you can buy them here:


That's considerably cheaper than I paid for a set. :)

These have to be pressed into your existing knuckles.
I bought a spare set of knuckles at the JY so I can build stuff at my leisure.

You buy the mustang front bearing/hubs and replace those as well.
 

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If it were a pair, I would have recommended that as well but each is a little spendy. I wasn't going to spend $330 for hubs?. Sounds like the OP is trying to do this on the cheap...
 

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Crap! Good catch. That's a bit pricey.

I thought that was per pair, as the pic.

I paid $250 for the set I have, but at least they came with Arp studs. :)
 

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1994 Cougar XR7 DOHC/5-Speed
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I got lucky, I ordered direct from Ford and they sent a pair even though I was only charged for one.


You catch this on the Summit page?


Q:I am upgrading my 1994 T-Bird hubs so that I can upgrade to better brakes. These hubs will work in the rear but I also need a set of similar hubs for the front. What part number should I use?
Asked by GEORGE on December 10, 2018

A:
You will need mk8 front spindles, lsc rotors, and 99+ mustang v6 or gt calipers.
JOSH from IN answered on December 10, 2018

?‍♂

I actually submitted the right answer, I’m guessing Josh from IN is a Facebook user...
 

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These guys show having a mass air sensor for a 96; that means they likely have the whole car.



1996
Air Flow Meter
Ford Thunderbird
FF01542
030340
$Call​
Jean Guy's Used Cars and Parts Inc. USA-NH(Pelham) E-mail (Outside NH)1-800-535-7171 (NH)1-800-235-7171
8​
1996
Air Flow Meter
Ford Thunderbird
FQ11976 4.6
13-590
$Call​
Jean Guy's Used Cars and Parts Inc. USA-NH(Pelham) E-mail (Outside NH)1-800-535-7171 (NH)1-800-235-7171
8​
1997
Air Flow Meter
Ford Thunderbird
A​
09I268
$30​
Heberts Used Auto Parts USA-NH(Goffstown) Request_Quote 1-800-499-3573 Request_Insurance_Quote
Live Chat
20​
1996
Air Flow Meter
Ford Thunderbird
4.6L,AFH70-020,CK OK
C​
8G4130
$35​
P and L Auto Parts, Inc. USA-NH(Berlin) Request_Quote 1-800-237-1040 Request_Insurance_Quote
Live Chat
123​
1996
Air Flow Meter
Ford Thunderbird
3.8L,F6SF-12B579-AA
A​
9K4845
$35​
P and L Auto Parts, Inc. USA-NH(Berlin) Request_Quote 1-800-237-1040 Request_Insurance_Quote
Live Chat



I use Car-part.com to look up parts; the parts you want are from a 96 or 97 Tbird or Cougar.
You can't ship the fuel lines, they're too long, but will swap right out.


You will also want to see if the same yard you select has a 2002 Mustang GT with 4.6l engine, to grab the mass air sensor, airbox, and inlet tube, as well as potentially other parts.

You can remove the PI intake from the Mustang, but it won't be as nice as buying a new one. Gasket seating area needs to be flat.

You also need the waterpump valley tube and nipple; to get the nipple, you have to pull the water pump, and knock it out with a hammer without deforming it; if the waterpump has closed vanes, get it too. :)

Get the bracket off the alternator/intake manifold. That alternator might be usable as a spare; you'd have to look and see of it has the same connections. The single connection (white?) wire is important; it runs the charging lamp/circuit.

If you take the heads off the 02 mustang, there's your PI heads. I'd replace the valve stem seals and lap the valves before I put it in.

The 02 transmission in the mustang is a better core than the 95; to use it you have to change some parts, which is touched on in Jerry's guide.

These TC's are orderable with different stalls; note that stall is proportional to HP level, more hp moves the stall up.

It has a number of better parts than your OG transmission, and the plate is already drilled to a large extent.
It will need to be rebuilt; there are new Teflon seals that will correct the most common problems with these units.
See this rebuild guide, or show it to your tranny guy.


Transgo is NOT the way to go with these, and will destroy the direct clutch.

When you get your car tuned, make sure they add the "over 127mph" transmission file; since you are going for high speed operation, you don't want to destroy a tranny for nothing.

Matt, you reminded me; If you order PBR brakes, get the 04 calipers, because the banjo bolts are the same size as ours. I screwed up on the first set, and ordered the wrong ones, and then had to buy banjo bolts.
Be sure to order spare copper gaskets, lol.

I ordered this:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Wow, what an awesome response, thank you very much for your time and for sharing your experience.

I am going to take the time to read and digest all that you have given me. There is no way I could have ever got all you have shared any other way, I sure do appreciate it.

Seems like I landed in the right forum.

RD
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks again for all the info, it helps. I think for this Spring and Summer, we are going to get our powertrain installed and debugged first. With the exception of an 02GT MAF and an underdrive kit, that's about all we can afford this Spring. Once we have that under control, and the PCM tuned to an acceptable level, we can move on. We are changing our final drive ratio, so we need to reset the speedo. We need to move shift points, rev limiter, top speed limiter and get the 127MPH file installed. we are making a very small tire diameter change as well.


This is our current phase of the build, which we hope to begin next month.

Final drive 3.08 to 3.73, New Richmond Elite gear set
New Richmond Elite Master install Kit
New Timken Carrier and R+P master bearing kit
Used FRPP Trac-Lok Carrier, rebuilt with FRPP Carbon clutch packs
Used 3.5" Aluminum Mark VIII Drive Shaft from TBSC (u-joints as needed)
Rhodes Race Cars Mid Motor Plate Installation
New (Rebuilt) Roadrunner Torque Converter, 10" BC, 3200-3500 Stall, (deciding today if maybe to go 3800-4200 or the other way, 2800-3200 This is a Marauder, Mark VIII, Cobra type smaller 11" Diameter unit with an anti-balloon plate for higher rpm operation. Unit is dual patterned to fit all flex plates.
Force Lube kit install for the tail shaft housing bushing/bearing hydroplane.

I feel like I have everything here we need for this phase. If I missed anything....PLEASE LMK.



It may kill me to remove the exhaust system on the car and put it back on without any upgrade. Ditto with the Intake Manifold and head setup on the 95/94 cars. But, for now, we can live with my hand ported plenum elbow, intake manifold inlets and outlets ported to gaskets and temp EGR delete with PCV A/O Separator and reservoir and our own CAI.

If all goes well, maybe we can get some 96-97 fuel lines, fuel rails, a PI Intake manifold and a 02-04 GT Throttle body assembly and inlet tube/MAF/airbox assembly.
We would love to alsozz;


We replaced the heater core and the radiator, t-stat, hoses, coolant, pump and fans, I also deleted the AC, repurposed the AC condenser to AT cooler, deleted the evaporator, and cleared the heater box and resealed it.
Just FYI, the very first things we did was the warrior (i think) Powerstop complete brake upgrade. (Font and Rear Calipers, drilled and slotted rotors, ceramic pads, from Summitt Racing). At that time we replaced the rear springs, rear shocks, and front coil-overs and all the steering joints and ball joints.
The steering is further upgraded to SS braided HP lines, deleted the power assist valve and replaced the rack and are upgrading next the front hubs/bearing assy to Mustang BC. Boy, thanks for the rear axle help, I totally missed the hubs being re-drillable.
We installed dual remote oil filters (Blessed thing there) and moved the battery to as far opposite the OEM location as possible in the trunk with a battery switch in the console.
Miraculously, our transmission responded to 3X flush and Filter, microscopic cleaning, new accumulator pistons, shift springs, and all solenoids upgraded. We had no hope for it, as it was grabbing, super slow to react and felt weak. New deep pan with drain, pickup, filter, and 2 quart cooler. I modified the wiring harness and j-modded the unit to the max spec possible. (I pulled 3 broken springs out of 1-2 and 2-3, the 1-2 piston was in 2 pieces, and things were extremely dirty inside) The converter is so worn out that you can feel it stretch and retract through the throttle now that it runs nice. AFter the flushes and before the j-mod, it would throw the 1-2 shift every time at 3/4-WOT. We were quicker than the PCM expected once I got the spark and fuel closer to right. J-modded, the Xmission is faster than the PCM now mechanically and it never throws a shift. 1-2 barks the tires, scary in the wet. The Xmission works nicely but is aggressive as expected.
We will get an NHRA Battery Box and ignition/electrical safety extension shutoff when we put in a Rollcage. For now, having the weight relocated and the isolation switch works well for us.
If we get that far, and I hope we do, we can begin on chassis and power upgrades keeping in mind we want to run LandSpeed events. (and some other stuff too like New England Dragway)
We understand we need to swap over to a 96-97 setup for fuel and air delivery, and we have a decision to make once there regarding NPI/PI heads or to re-engine the car altogether. (ATP, we are leaning toward a late model Explorer Aluminum 2V and a 02-04 truck transmission to bulletproof and trans-brake per Jerry W.)
We are trying to get to that point without spending dollars on items we cannot re-use.

Thanks again Grog, you guys have been at this a while, we are still learning.
 
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