You'll have to get an evtm, and start unplugging sections of harness. Then run it down with a meter, when you figure out which part is shorted.
Good Luck!
Good Luck!
Is that a diagram of some sort? Apologies, never done something like this before.You'll have to get an evtm, and start unplugging sections of harness. Then run it down with a meter, when you figure out which part is shorted.
Good Luck!
That’s quite the accusation lol. Appreciate the help.OK.WTF. An evtm is an electrical wiring diagram. Acronyms we use are in a file in the noobs section. you should read it. evtm's can be found on ebay, typically. There's this thing called google; if you type things like evtm, or maybe"int fuse blows thunderbird 1996 site: tccoa.com", it will show you all the threads that contain those words.
Not attempting to check or trying to educate yourself is called wanting spoon feeding, and this is as close as I get.
I'd recommend towing it to a competent shop.
Electrical/Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual.An evtm is an electrical wiring diagram.
Appreciate it. Actually just fixed it. Cleaned both battery connections and no fuses are blowing. Never had that before, either that or I wiggled something. Either way, no check engine light illumination. Maybe it’s a bulb!Post #3 in this thread:
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Need help with a 1997 Mercury cougar 3.8l
Hello everyone, I could really really use some help with my friends cougar. Not 100% sure what is the issue but I'll explain what is going on. So a couple months ago his vehicle started running really bad. When you first start it, it starts just fine. But as soon as it gets to operating...www.tccoa.com
96 sir. Researching how to remove the the cluster now.The bulbs in the instrument cluster are very easy to replace (on 97, but I imagine it's just as easy on previous years; not sure which year yours is).
The most difficult part is the removal of the cluster surround.
Those are amazing directions! Thank you so much!Take your time.
IIRC, three bolts at the bottom, two at the top. One clip near the left vent, three clips along the right edge.
Once dislodged and tilted back, use a small wrench or rachet to unscrew the rear defroster switch; that's much easier than attempting to disconnect the harness.
Steering wheel tilted all the way down, carefully lift the top edge of the surround up over the steering wheel; there will be minimal clearance between the steering wheel and top of dash. Now you can turn the entire cluster surround slightly clockwise and lift toward the center line of the roof.
Try not to lose the tiny rubber bumpers on the back of the panel, especially the two directly above the cluster.
When you put it back together, be very gentle on the two top screws. The screw holes on the cluster surround are notorious for breaking out. Just put the screws in and fasten until they touch the surround, then stop.
Just got the dash thing off. One bolt for the cluster left.I actually drop the whole column these days, not removing it intirely mind you, just removing the 4 nuts holding it to the dash frame and letting the wheel rest the seat. It’s an extra step but it makes removing the dash bezel much easier and less risky to damage it, easier to keep those rubber bumpers in place too
Take your time.
IIRC, three bolts at the bottom, two at the top. One clip near the left vent, three clips along the right edge.
Once dislodged and tilted back, use a small wrench or rachet to unscrew the rear defroster switch; that's much easier than attempting to disconnect the harness.
Steering wheel tilted all the way down, carefully lift the top edge of the surround up over the steering wheel; there will be minimal clearance between the steering wheel and top of dash. Now you can turn the entire cluster surround slightly clockwise and lift toward the center line of the roof.
Try not to lose the tiny rubber bumpers on the back of the panel, especially the two directly above the cluster.
When you put it back together, be very gentle on the two top screws. The screw holes on the cluster surround are notorious for breaking out. Just put the screws in and fasten until they touch the surround, then stop.
I think I picked up a LED. Just checked, my Check engine light now works! Should be able to pass emissions no problem.I have not done it myself but wouldn't now be the time to go LED?
I think Martin did that?
I did once briefly, but then put the old bulbs back in.I have not done it myself but wouldn't now be the time to go LED?
I think Martin did that?
Man, just my luck. Was on my way to emissions this morning, stopped to get gas. When I went to start it, starter was dead. Not even a click. Checked multiple engine grounds, couldn’t find the Fuse/Solenoid. Grounded out starter with a screw driver and it sounds like it’s stuck. Towed back home…At least I wasn’t in the middle of nowhere.I did once briefly, but then put the old bulbs back in.
White LEDs really only make a difference if you scrape off that green film. I just wasn't up for that.
I ended up using those LEDs for my courtesy lights.