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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Guys,

Car just turned 120k miles, and I got the P0102 (MAF input low, etc) with all the typical symptoms and I'm pretty sure MAF is shot. prob gonna need a new one. (Yes, it is very clean; I made sure of that)
I need the car back to normal asap...

Please advise me on the following.

1) should I only get Ford OEM maf?
if yes, what's bad about aftermarket from Autozone, etc?
I'm planning to get the parts from FrodPartsCounter here @ tccoa.com

What does it (oem ford) cost here and @ dealer? (I still haven't got a reply to my post in the parts forum here)

-any other cheap sources to buy oem ford MAF?

2) I'm not doing it myself: so,
is this something that you would only let the dealer do?
or is it simple enough that an independent place/mechanic can do it without screwing it up?

3) any other easy stuff to do while replacing the MAF ? (what else can be easily accessed during this?)

Thanks in advance.
 

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replacing the maf pretty much entials disconnecting one connector and loosening two hose clamps so yeah kinda hard to mess it up,dont know about auto zone ones and such but unless you want to upgrade i would go with oem,and theres not much else around the maf to mess with when its out, so as for the last question not really.
 

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oem mafs have very stringent quality control, therefore are more likely to be caibrated properly than an autoparts store maf

to replace the maf is easy...all you need is a T-20 size tamper-proof torx bit to remove the two screws holding it to it's housing......remove the plug, put the new maf in place by simply setting it down on the housing, replace torx screws (either with original or M5 phillips head metric screws to have easy access to clean it later), and plug it back in.....cake i tell ya! :)

not quite related to replacing the maf, but you can yank the air silencer attaced to the underside of the airbox for a louder intake noise 'n a bit better throttle response....thats about it
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
oem mafs have very stringent quality control, therefore are more likely to be caibrated properly than an autoparts store maf

to replace the maf is easy...all you need is a T-20 size tamper-proof torx bit to remove the two screws holding it to it's housing......remove the plug, put the new maf in place by simply setting it down on the housing, replace torx screws (either with original or M5 phillips head metric screws to have easy access to clean it later), and plug it back in.....cake i tell ya! :)
Really? dang, I was thinking that I need to replace the whole silver looking round thing (the MAF housing) also, because it's calibrated to the specific housing ??? see comments from the previous reply:
"....replacing the maf pretty much entials disconnecting one connector and loosening two hose clamps ..."
looks like he also thinks the same...

GM, I'm not arguing, but making sure that I understand correctly:
so you're saying that I need only to replace the back plastic part with the wires, which I took off to clean the wires?
 

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the actual maf in your car is not individually calibrated to the housing...the calibration is done initially by Hitachi, who makes the mafs for ford, in the R&D phase...once the acceptable deviation of < +/- 4% is acheived, then the maf is mass produced for ford's use in it's vehicles....for each maf sensor to be individually calibrated would require dyno-tuning each and every vehicle produce by ford....not exactly cost-effective :)

this is the reason (ie: strict OEM quality control) you can simply plug-n-play the actual sensor with a new one from ford and rest assured it will work, so long as the housing hasn't changed and the new sensor isnt defective.....i suppose you could change it all together with the housing with an identical housing, but it wouldn't be any different from just swapping out the actual sensor on the original housing

so, yes....just the black plastic part is the actual maf sensor :)
 

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If you replace the MAF sensor and it's housing, then stick with Ford.

I bought a remann'ed unit from AutoZone, and it crapped out on the way home.

Jason form the Ford Parts Counter can give you the best price.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Guys, Thanks for clarifying; I'm relieved that it's only the sensor i need to change..I can do that pretty easy myself, then...

I already posted a price request from jason, but haven't got a reply yet. (so he'll be posting the price only for the sensor, right?..I just said "MAF" in my post..didn't specify I only need the sensor)

as far as using a '96 MAF...would it work? I mean, are there any differences in the EEC calbrations in '97 engines (not maf calib, but general calib), which would be a problem?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I have one out of a 96 4.6. Worked when tested. $22.50 shipped. Sensor only.
Thanks for the offer.
how long was it in the car? what condition is it currently in?
How did you actually test it? just curious.
 

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It was in the car for about 15,000 miles. It's in good shape. By tested fine I mean I never got a Check engine light using it. If you really need it I can do $20 shipped. But thats the lowest I can do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
It was in the car for about 15,000 miles. It's in good shape. By tested fine I mean I never got a Check engine light using it. If you really need it I can do $20 shipped. But thats the lowest I can do.
you've got a PM, 94ONAIR.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
UPDATE: new MAF in ...all fine.

Thanks to all you guys who advised me;

I got the slightly used MAF sensor from 94ONAIR, and put it in, reset the EEC, and after giving a couple of drives/idling cycles for the EEC to learn, everything works fine...no CEL, and all the symptoms I had before are gone.
It feels like (and I'm pretty sure it is real) the car is running a lot smoother than it has for a pretty long time...long before the CEL for the MAF even came on...the slight gray smoking during the beginning of a drive which began almost at the same time when the CEL for the maf came on, has also vanished.

Now I've only got to take care of the "right bank:catalyst efficiency below threshold" thing (CEL is not on right now, but I got the code about 2 yrs ago, and it comes and goes every few months)....
I'm sure that will cure the bad MPG, which is the only problem the car has right now (well...perhaps it's a bit restricted in performance, too, if the cat's are really clogged, but the new MAF made such a difference, I can hardly feel it now). think it's best to replace all 3 cat's and the O2 sensors along with them...the bird does have 120k miles.

what will be the most cost effective way to get new cat's? (I don't want anything fancy, but if better flowing cats come with a basic package, or if I only have to pay only a little extra, I wouldn't mind getting better flowing cats; but for now I want to go the most economical but effective route...)

I have a feeling that getting a pre-assembled complete y-pipe with all the cats already on it and getting some independant place to put it in will be more cost effective than replacing each individual cat (now welding, cutting etc on labor). is that right thinking?

I can't find the old (2 yrs back) thread that i started on this cat topic.
where will be a good place to look for starters?
any tips/advise regarding this will be appreciated.

Thanks again for the help; I was able to save a lot of money and time due to toccoa members. special thanks to 94ONAIR.
 

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First of all, the catalyst efficiency code will not affect your MPG in any way, so don't expect any wonders when you get that problem fixed. Your mileage can be affected by a number of things including both the faulty MAF sensor you just replaced and a plugged up exhaust. Honestly since you aren't in California the cheapest route would probably be to replace the entire Y-pipe assembly with one off of Summit. The exhaust on the 4.6L is a pita and most places I've seen will cut the old converter off right after the connector to the manifolds and the weld the new one on. It's a lot of work, and it may be cheaper to get the whole assembly. And honestly, you could install the Y-pipe yourself. All it takes is a couple jack stands, some penetrating lube, and a ratchet with a couple long extensions, u-joints, and a 15mm socket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
thanks...

Thanks for the replies guys.

The one from the link, this one here seems to be pretty ok for the price, I think:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=MPE%2D23343&view=1&N=700+150+400636+314778+4294908331+4294907842+4294924744+

it's not possible to see how much the shipping's gonna cost without creating an account etc. on summit...
IF spomebody has gotten something like this from summit, any rough idea what the shipping can amount to? They say there'll be truck freight charges, due to the size.

Between Catco (which also has a complete y pipe for the 4.6L), and Magnaflow, which one do you guys think is better (not considering the small difference in price)?
 
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