TCCoA Forums banner

1 - 20 of 29 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
hey guys looking for some advice. my stepdad got a 97 cougar with 3.8 motor. couple months ago it began to take longer for the fuel pressure to build up in order to start the motor. this has been getting worse and taking longer to build up as time goes by.

he installed a new fuel pump on that didnt change anything so he installed a new fuel regulator. the problem has not gone away or got any better.

when you start the car you have to have the key in the on position and wait for the fuel pressure to build which sometimes takes as long as 5minutes.

also I dont know if this would be related to this issue but when the key is turned to the on position with the engine off waiting for the fuel pressure to build, the electric fan will kick on and stay on but shut off right when the fuel pressure is completely built up

if anyone has any suggestions that could help Id greatly appreciate it.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
11,871 Posts
Probably something simple like the fuel FILTER. If you've replaced the pump and the regulator I'd try the filter.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,302 Posts
97's are known for weird EEC problems; the fan coming on is a symptom of an EEC issue.

I guess it would be causing probs with the fuel pump, but IDK.

If you have access to another 3.8l EEC, I'd try that.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,479 Posts
When the key is turned on, but the engine is not started, the fuel pump will only run for a few seconds, so if the fuel pressure hasn’t built up by then, it won’t get any better no matter how long you leave the key on. The fan being on when the key is turned on is indicative of a failed EEC, or possibly the EEC not getting power. If it runs fine once started, and doesn’t die on the road, then the EEC itself is probably fine, and it is most likely a power issue. I believe the 96/97 3.8 cars have a separate EEC relay, so I would start by replacing that.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,302 Posts
Almost 24 years for a relay is a really good relay. That makes sense. :)


I realize all my relays are original...

When my fuel pump on my 97 started going out, you could hear it struggling; I'd turn the key off, and on, and off, and sometimes it would start fine.

I was really lucky it lasted long enough to get to the house the last time; It kept dying, but would restart after a few tries.

If you replaced it with a Cheap pump, it could still have problems.



Like Mikey said, the pump only runs for a few seconds; if you're not getting pressure until a few seconds after it's run, then you might have a crimped line or something.

Look at the fuel line near the filter location; one of my "buddies" helped me out with one by jacking the car up with the jack on the fuel line. :surprise:
Maybe it's restricted.

I had to replace the line.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
He will check that out once hes back from the race track. Also when he pushes the Schrader valve fuel squirts out the way it should. My dad was thinking maybe the gas is just getting sent back to the tank instead of building pressure.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,479 Posts
Well if fuel sprays out of the schraeder valve, then it has fuel pressure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
yes thats what id think but the car wont start for 5 to 10 mins with the key turned to the on position. this whole time you can hear the fuel pump and for some reason the electric cooling fan will turn on too as soon as key in on. even with a cold motor.

once the fuel pump and electric fan go off the car will start.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,479 Posts
Constant fan running with the key on means one of 3 things. Either the EEC is failed, the EEC is not getting proper power and ground, or your coolant temperature sensor is unplugged. At this point I can pretty much guarantee that your no start issue has nothing to do with fuel pressure.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,888 Posts
What MadMikeyL says.

Triple check ALL power connections, including the ground connections, and both ends of both battery cables.

If they're factory, you may have "green rot" inside the rubber down inside the cable, too.

RwP
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
ok i appreciate the advice. ill let my dad know to check these areas. today he said he checked for spark and said he wasnt getting any when the engine was cold
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,807 Posts
As already indicated, it is a bad PCM. I've had the same problem and symptoms. I would look for one on here, these junkyards will ship it. Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market

Al
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,750 Posts
What is the code on your PCM? I may have one in my shop, and there is a 97 3.8 Bird at the yard here.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
I think its a bad pcm now too. Now the cougar wont start and got no spark.

when you say the code on the pcm do you mean obd2 codes?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,888 Posts

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,302 Posts
No, there's a 4 letter/number code.

It's on the EEC itself.

It's also on a sticker on the passenger side, under the hood where the hood gasket is.

Open the hood, and look where the shock tower meets the hood hinge; there's a rubber gasket that seals the underhood are from the windshield.

The sticker is just under the edge of it.

Cougars here are MBE2 or MBE3; Tbirds are FTE1, FTE2, or FTE3.

I am running three MBE2 code Computers; my FTE1 code computer failed.


https://forums.tccoa.com/12-eec-tuning/12645-eec-part-number-something.html


If it weren't all fucked up by shittybucket, here's a pic from the datalogging thread:

https://forums.tccoa.com/12-eec-tuning/136196-device-datalogging-xcal2-tutorial.html
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Im waiting to hear back from my dad about what code he has on his pcm. how much did you want for the pcm you have at your shop?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
345 Posts
You can also get a refurbished engine computer.

When mine went bad I went through two used ones that ended up being bad. One from ebay and one from a reputable seller of parts for our cars. I gave up and bought one from Cardone and no problems since. I wasn't aware refurbished computers were available or I would have went that way in the beginning.

You just need the emission code for the rebuild computer, its on the door sticker.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/mercury,1997,cougar,3.8l+v6,1198829,electrical,engine+control+module+(ecm+computer),2896
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
I appreciate the help guys. Ill keep you guys updated on progress. Im just relaying info for my dad since he isnt much of a computer guy.
 
1 - 20 of 29 Posts
Top