[theterminator93]

What would happen if you just printed it as is? Itd have, I guess, cavitation in it? Like where ever theres blue it wont print?

Is it something that could be fixed after they were done, along with their painting?

It wouldn't print. 3D printers do a check of the file before trying to process it. It's not a "solid" object, basically, and just surfaces with no volume. It's that volume that the printer's logic uses to compute the internal ribbing and outer shell.

As I'm "smoothing" the surfaces there are some minor variations to the surface that a simple sanding will fix. If a 3D printer was to run these off there would be a fine texture inherent to 3D printed objects that would need to be smoothed anyway. I think the ultimate plan was to 3D print an engineering proof to possibly use as a template for a new injection mold? But I don't have access to that kind of tooling...

Oh woe is me if ever I decide to scan other "hard to find" parts to reproduce!

Though I have a feeling this would be going a lot more smoothly if I had done a better job of aligning my 4 scans when I merged them down for the poly model...

 

[XR7-4.6]

The presence of the metal spring clips is something that would need to be corrected too, the standoffs they grip to are all that should be there by the final draft. For that matter the standoffs for the column boot and vent assembly should be enlongated as well, those are melted down to secure them onto it so they wouldnt look the way they do on this piece as they would fresh.

And then you need to figure out the right formula for the slightly off black bluish rubberized paint to spray onto them

 

[theterminator93]

Yep, all on my list.

 

[CDsDontBurn]

Brandon, that is coming out great so far. As you continue to put more effort into it, it'll come out perfect for sure.

Thanks for taking on this task. Put me on the list for a 3D replica in black.

Perhaps a group buy may be in order once Brandon and I have this perfected?

Wow, that's a lot of time invested, but worth it if you can print them for a couple hundred bucks. If I needed one to finish my car, I'd pay 3-4 hundred bucks for it. Sure it's a lot of money, but a heck of a lot cheaper than a new car.

I have a ballpark figure coming from the guy that I've found who will be printing these out for us. I can say it will be a bit spendy, but he's also said that if there's enough volume of these moving that the price can be discounted some.

It helps that the guy who is printing these is an automotive enthusiast as well 🙂.

 

[Darin10]

Making slow progress patching up the model. This will take a long time, FYI. At least 30-40 man hours or more, owing to a few factors.

1) my relative inexperience with the software
2) the complexity of the model
3) the sheer volume of corrections needed

Last night I smoothed out some of the front faces. I'll turn my attention to fixing the "holes" along the edges and some detail work after I finish the surface work.

View attachment 46620

All the blue indicates holes that need to be filled and smoothed.
View attachment 46621
View attachment 46622

I know you asked for help but figured others knew more than I did. I will be willing to take a stab at it. I have some experience with Blender so it is worth a shot if it is going to take you that long.

 

[theterminator93]

Happy to send the original unmolested file. PM forthcoming...

 

[Muscle&Thunder]

So you're going to be making some parts? Is that what I'm hearing?

Sorry for the late reply. That was my intention to create new parts but I see that our fellow is steps ahead. Other parts as well to be considered or even modified to production.!!!

 

[CDsDontBurn]

Sorry for the late reply. That was my intention to create new parts but I see that our fellow is steps ahead. Other parts as well to be considered or even modified to production.!!!

The more of us there are, the merrier! If you can make them yourself because you have a 3D printer, that'll greatly reduce the "middle man" cost of the this adventure!

 

[Kidd-7]

Do you guys have thoughts on what material to use? I've had someone tell me the PLA got real soft sitting in the car in the sun.

 

[CDsDontBurn]

Do you guys have thoughts on what material to use? I've had someone tell me the PLA got real soft sitting in the car in the sun.

The person who I found stated that they have / can obtain plastics which are heat resistant. I'm not sure how well they will tolerate the heat though as I've not seen / used it yet.

 

[Grog6]

I have a dual xeon server with 2 scsi raid 0 arrays, and blender is already on it. I'd be happy to help, if I can.
I have another system thats sas raid zero, but it's not as fast as the scsi. The scsi will read and write at 75MB/s until the destination is full.
Let me know if I can help.
Oh, Brandon, I got the tape, I really appreciate it. I'm probably going to work on it later this weekend. I need to find my RCA to BNC connectors. Heh, want to buy an oscilloscope? I have 3 now, from the really good era of the 80's. Tek is the ****, lol.

 

[Generalee0528]

My 97 bezel broke with me just wiping a little arm erall over it. Right now it is barely noticeable on left side of steering column. I have it in mind to use that bondic uv cure glue China knock off in wallyworld craft section to glue from back side to avoid any leaking through. Cured glue is pretty tough from repairing sunglasses.

 

[digitalgreasemonkey]

I just picked up a Creality CR-30 print mill specifically for printing some parts for my thunderbird. I am waiting on some upgraded parts from repkord.com to make it more "production ready". The filament you will probably want to use is ASA

"ASA filaments are the best choice for outdoor-use parts. Unlike other filaments, which warp and crack with prolonged sun exposure, parts made from ASA are UV resistant" It's good to 205*F (1.75") This is probably the top range my printer would be capable to do.

First things I am going to try to print are the shifter lock button for 94 LX, the light switch cover for the map reading lights. I'm not looking to make a business out of it, but maybe i can make enough money to pay for the printer (and who knows maybe buy a lathe). I am not an experienced machinist or 3d printer person.

I want to keep these cars alive until AT LEAST 2036 (my daughters targeted graduation date).

 

[Darin10]

Thanks, this is good to know.

 

[theterminator93]

Update for those who were hoping I'd make some progress on this...

No progress.

When I went to England and spent a day with Andy625UK, I found out his line of work involves some CAD and parts fabircation. He offered to take a look at the 3D scan to see if he could help clean it up for 3D printing. Unfortunately, his conclusions aligned with what several other people who have already looked at the file said: it's too complex a model and too large to process.

I've basically come to the conclusion that I will need to devote some time to head back to the makerspace and re-scan my spare bezel and do a better job of aligning each scan. When I process the export I will run it at a lower poly/iteration count to reduce the file size as well. Hopefully with these lessons learned, I'll come back with a model that requires less smoothing and hole-filling! I'd like to be able to get it to a point where it can be 3D printed at, say 1/3 or 1/4 scale on a consumer grade printer before sending it to someone for a full-scale mockup.

 

[Wile E. Coyote Jr.]

Update for those who were hoping I'd make some progress on this...

No progress.

When I went to England and spent a day with Andy625UK, I found out his line of work involves some CAD and parts fabircation. He offered to take a look at the 3D scan to see if he could help clean it up for 3D printing. Unfortunately, his conclusions aligned with what several other people who have already looked at the file said: it's too complex a model and too large to process.

I've basically come to the conclusion that I will need to devote some time to head back to the makerspace and re-scan my spare bezel and do a better job of aligning each scan. When I process the export I will run it at a lower poly/iteration count to reduce the file size as well. Hopefully with these lessons learned, I'll come back with a model that requires less smoothing and hole-filling! I'd like to be able to get it to a point where it can be 3D printed at, say 1/3 or 1/4 scale on a consumer grade printer before sending it to someone for a full-scale mockup.

What about injection molding? A two piece mold system should be enough, and they can be made from HDPE. Maybe not the stiffest material but its less likely to crack like stockers do.

 

[CDsDontBurn]

My coworker is most definitely interested in getting these going. I just need a scan to provide him.

Right now he's getting his 3D printer tuned. He wants to make a model for as a proof of concept, and later a prototype unit. Afterwards, it's a "go from there" sort of thing.

 

[theterminator93]

My coworker is most definitely interested in getting these going. I just need a scan to provide him.

If he's got experience and the right equipment, sending him my spare bezel to scan isn't out of the question. Just need to sort out the best way to ship it there, then get it back once he's done with it.

 

[CDsDontBurn]

If he's got experience and the right equipment, sending him my spare bezel to scan isn't out of the question. Just need to sort out the best way to ship it there, then get it back once he's done with it.

I have bezels, 3 in fact.....though one is for a 94-96 😅. One is more or less is missing all the tabs and is currently installed in my 97. I have a spare I got from @Wile E. Coyote Jr. a couple of years ago and in mostly good condition. The 94 - 96 I have is near mint condition. I think it's only missing one tab at the bottom.

He says he has a makersplace or whatever it's called near him, and I'm willing to make the 1.5hr drive and go out there to take a scan if this particular location has scan equipment available.

He said he might be able to fix the tabs within the application, but of course, the better condition bezel I have, the less need of fixing needing to happen.

 

[CDsDontBurn]

Just finished taking pictures of my two spare bezels. Both are in really good condition.

My 97 bezel has a partially broken bottom tab, a missing left circular tab up top. The HVAC vent isn't technically an issue as it's not a fixed part of the bezel itself, but it's beginning to separate.

My 94-96 bezel is in better condition as it's only missing a bottom tab. IIRC, it broke off when I was pulling it from the car. I used it for my rough measurements to provide my coworker.