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Discussion Starter #1
This morning I went out to the car and everything lit up like usual, when the key was turn to "on/start". The car wouldn't crank or even try, It has been extremely cold recently in MD and I haven't moved the car for 3 days. Also I don't believe it to be the battery as the lights were as bright as normal and I didn't seem to get the dead battery click. I only heard a very faint almost like click sound, could something be frozen, or have gone bad?

I didn't have time to investigate further this morning, but will be when I get off work. I just don't want something to thaw out and leave me stranded if it freezes or acts up again.

Any help or guidance would be great.. Thanks guys
 

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Voice/Data Guru
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Just a FYI, Couple of weeks ago I washed the 95 good , underside as well ,went for a 20 mile drive came back home parked for the night, that night it was down to 19 degrees came out the next day no crank lights and all good, Hmmm thought to myself I bet when it gets past 32 or so it will crank. And it sure did :) Guess I had water under there somewhere.

Also battery was good , showing 12 volts . No problems since.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Could it be the IAC? I have been having a weird idle kinda stumbling then idling high every so often, while in gear...
 

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I would not think the IAC would keep the car from cranking like your describing,but its no big deal to replace for your idling issues if that is the cause. NO expert here.
 

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Probably the cold. Get your battery tested at an auto parts store. Or just jump it.
+1 Check the battery. If it's good, it's the starter if you can't even get it to turn over.

The solenoid on my starter used to act up in cold weather, but it hasn't given me a problem in years.
 

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Also, could be the connector at the solenoid/relay?, if the plastic clip is broken, you could have a bad/intermittent connection. I had that problem. You will have to jack it up and get under there to see it
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well when I got home I tried to start the car normally....No go. Popped the hood checked voltage with car off battery was 12.xx volts. So I wiggled all cables to the batter to make sure they were on solid, then took a wrench and banged on the IAC valve.....The car fired right up, I am still clueless. I thought if it was the IAC the car would still crank, just not stay running....Any thoughts on this?
 

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Well when I got home I tried to start the car normally....No go. Popped the hood checked voltage with car off battery was 12.xx volts. So I wiggled all cables to the batter to make sure they were on solid, then took a wrench and banged on the IAC valve.....The car fired right up, I am still clueless. I thought if it was the IAC the car would still crank, just not stay running....Any thoughts on this?
If it wouldn't even crank, I guarantee you didn't get it to start by wiggling the IAC valve wires.

Battery wires - yes, IAC - no way; total coincidence is my consensus...
 

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1997 Thunderbird 4.6, 1998 Mark VIII LSC
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The IAC lets air into the engine to bypass the throttle valve when needed; if it didn't work, your engine would start, rev up to 800 or so then die immediately due to air starvation. If the engine isn't turning it doesn't need air, so doing that had no effect on the starting. Your moving around the cables to the battery is what did it. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So looks like I am going to start replacing battery wires, and suggestions on what or where to get them?
 

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I would start at the connector to the battery... Is it cracked or in rough condition? A lot of no-start/no-crank situations are just because the terminal connection to the battery is either too corroded or cracked.

Also, you may only need to trim the wires back that connect to the terminal at the battery depending on corrosion.

Stephen
 

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Definately not the iac. Starter power flow goes from the battery to the starter .. check battery voltage and cables. Ignition is fed from the battery, to fuse box, ignition switch, transmission range sensor, to the starter solenoid. Process of elimination to determine no crank condition.
 

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yeah, i had an issue like that for a while since somebody cut the neg connection off my car and put on one of those cheep crimp style ones from the parts store, it would get green and corroded under the clamp and if it had no start i would have to wiggle the neg and it would fire right back up...


ended up having to finally go get something like this:



pushed the wires inside those rubber covered ends where theirs and alan key that squishes down on em filled it up with dielectric grease and i haven't had an issue since. got really annoying for a while, every other day having to wiggle those things and let the ECM relearn for the first few miles. :mad:
 

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So looks like I am going to start replacing battery wires, and suggestions on what or where to get them?
I usually just make my own with solder on lugs and appropriately sized cable. For a stock layout, 4 ga cable should be fine.

I get the cable locally, and I order lugs, fuse holders/blocks, etc from: http://www.wiringproducts.com/
 

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4ga cable is fine - you can also start the Big Three and use something like welding cable (check at a welding supply store for off fall or trim pieces), which is, last I checked, 0 or 00 gauge, and flexible.

I put 2ga cable in when I redid Ruby.

I just need to drop the cables from the starter solenoid on the fender to the starter solenoid on the starter, and replace those also.

RwP
 

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Glad you got it figured out!

And I've seen that problem before, that's why I don't like those clamps on battery connectors - the molded ones are much better!
 

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If you soak the cable with oil after you get the new connection made, or a new cable, it will last a lot longer.

I apply gear lube to them after soldering, while it's still hot; it soaks in pertty good that way... :)

Oil keeps out water; even wd is better than nothing. But Thick oil doesn't come out. :D
 
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