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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been thinking about this quite a bit lately and something keeps coming across my mind that has be stumped: The 99+ GT engine uses a returnless fuel system and T-Bird has a return system. So, when you do the swap, do you retain the return fuel system? If so, then which ECU do you use? If you use the GT, it's the primary controller for the "smart pump" in the fuel tank. How will this interact with the return fuel system and conventional pump?

Comments? Suggestions? Ideas!
 

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You must convert to the returnless fuel system. And you can use your stock eec, and i think it can even run the eec in stock form for a little while, but you'll need a chip/tune fairly soon. Others can tell you the actual details of converting
 

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You retain the use of your EEC and swap your existing fuel rails (if you have a 96-7)onto the new manifold. If you have a 94-5 MN12 then you have to get 96-7 MN12 fuel rails in order to do the swap. I also like to swap the 94-5 fuel lines going from the fuel filter to the fuel rails to the 96-7's for best results. The 94-5 lines can get crimped trying to attach to the 96-7 fuel rails. You also have to adjust some of the MN12 motor mounts in order to attach them to the newer style block.


The adjusted mount is in the front and the same side untouched is behind.

 

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Gt Swap

Just swap the fuel rails for 96-97 T-bird rails. You can use the stock fuel pump but I recommend going to 190lph pump. The engine will run with the stock computer and MAF sensor but not at full power. Use the GT MAF sensor or after market equivalent. Just keep in mind you will have to reflash the computer or have a chip made to do this or the engine wont run.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
OK, so other than retaining the stock ECU and Fuel Rails and using modified motor mounts, the 99+ GT is a direct swap? What about the transmission? Is the Mustang GT Auto a 4R70W as well and will it swap directly? Thanks!
 

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Overkill Fetish Freak
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WHAT YEAR IS YOUR CAR?

On a 96-7 you will still need to do some custom stuff but not as much as if it were a 94-5.. If the new/used motor was out off a manual car then you would need a 8 bolt flexplate and 2 more bolts. Also (If it was a stick ) you would need to remove the pilot bushing with a removal tool so the TC "nub" will fit.

-Scott
 

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Re: WHAT YEAR IS YOUR CAR?

Dr. FrankenCougie said:
you would need a 8 bolt flexplate and 2 more bolts. -Scott
even after all the talk about the 2 bolts, i forgot to get them, are they anything special where i have to get them from ford, or can i go to the hardware store and get something?
 

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They are special..

Order them from Ford and you will get a pack of 8 new ones. I always like to replace the drivesshaft bolts, hub nuts and flexplate/flywheel bolts whenever I do a swap.

-Scott
 

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how hard would it be to swap the intake and heads, fuel rail and everything else mentioned, but i have a 90
so how do I go about converting the ignition since theres no place for the distributor
and how do the exhaust manifolds bolt up
basically i need the whole top half of the engine
can I use the ECC from that with my engine if I add the mass air onto it too with the stock style ignition or will that not work with my AOD not being electronically controlled
 

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Jimbo said:
how hard would it be to swap the intake and heads, fuel rail and everything else mentioned, but i have a 90
so how do I go about converting the ignition since theres no place for the distributor
and how do the exhaust manifolds bolt up
basically i need the whole top half of the engine
can I use the ECC from that with my engine if I add the mass air onto it too with the stock style ignition or will that not work with my AOD not being electronically controlled
ya lost me here.

were talking about a 4.6L block, no distributor, or AOD.
 

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oops, sorry, i was in the wrong forum, i thought i was in 3.8 and was talking about the 99+ mustang intakes that are dual-plane
ill reask
thanks anyway guys
 

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Scott.....

Scott, on the time chain cover, do I have to drill the holes bigger, that bolt on to the heads? I have a 97, but I am doing just the heads swap, since I am building up the bottom end.Do you have any pictures of the stuff that needs to be done on the swap? I read thearticles, and the manual for removing the heads, but would like to know anything that I might run into. I am planning to do it two days. Oh yeah, and would you happen to know what the sound is, when its coming from the passenger valve cover, like its hitting the cover, like the chain or something. This happened after I installed the pulleys. Any help would be appreciated...thans Manny
 

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I'm a little confused by your statement "I have a 97, but I am doing just the heads swap, since I am building up the bottom end." From what I gather you are building up another bottom end on the side and doing the head swap on your stocker now? If so, I would wait and do it all together as a unit but I will post this info anyway.

I like to make it easy and remove the hood and cowl so you can get to the back side of the motor. The bolts that go through the timing cover for the new heads are thicker then the stock ones (10mm VS 8mm). On the 94-5's I had to make the holes larger on the cover to accept the thicker bolts. When you get the cover off test the new bolts to see if they "fit" and post your results. Are you doing the building of the bottem end? I would strongly suggest having a experenced mod builder do the work on the block.

The EGR tube fitting is large so you will need a large wrench that can fit in a small spot if that makes any sense (you will inderstand soon enough). It can be a joy to loosen that beeotch on the exhaust manifold so you might want to let it soak overnite with some pentrating oil if you have the means. It will be eaiser if you loosen the fitting on the EGR valve first to give you some slack down below. The exhaust will have to be droped to do this BTW.
The power steering pump bolts can also be fun and I have found it eaiser if you remove the "clip" that makes sure the high pressure hose is secure(8mm bolt)


The 10mm bolt located under the line is the one that will piss you off. Use a small box end wrench and turn a little at a time. Be careful not to stress the High Pressure filtting when you remove the pump off the motor and tie it up on the body. This is a good time to drain the fluid out of the PS bottle. I would get a 1/4 inch swivel socket set or just get a 8mm swivel socket with a long 1/4 inch extension for the valve cover bolts. The middle passenger side bolts can be troublesome but the swivel socket will help you out here.

Once you get the timing cover off be sure to cover the exposed space in the oil pan so nothing can fall in. Align the crankshaft 10 degrees before TDC so when the chains are loosened the valves don't mash the pistons. You can use a vice grip and a rag on the non-lobe part of the cam to hold it from springing violently when you remove the tension off the chains. After the chains are off it's time to remove the heads. I like to use a impact socket and a breaker bar to loosen the TTY head bolts. Use rubber bands to "hold up" the bolts that hit the shock towers when trying to remove them so you can lift the heads off the block. Be sure to remember what bolts did not want to come out so you can preload them in the new heads and hold them up with rubber bands as before. Install the manifolds on the heads before they go on and route the new dipstick tube in the manifold/header drivers side head before you lower the head on the block. If you plan on installing new chains and the newer/stronger one piece crank sprocket be sure to also get the new thinner pulse wheel or you can have PIP dropout issues at high RPM's.




Be sure to torque all bolts and follow the steps for the timing marks as well as all torque sequences to the tee.

I would guess your noise issue would be a crank bolt coming loose if it was not torqued down properly. When you get enough stuff off remove the plugs and trun the crank clockwise and listen for your noise.

I'm tired and I hope you guys apreciate this long post that made my head hurt!

-Scott
 

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thanks so much.......

Yes Scott, I am building another engine on the side, gtting it ready for a blower. I am getting the stock heads ported, and will be going on the 2000Gt block with the pi cams. But for now, I want to try to get the most out of my stock block. I am getting a shop to do the bottom end for me, I don't have the tools for that. This is my first time doing this......I do want to thank you for the info....I understand it!!! thats the best part..lol Thanks again I will check the crank bolt. I tighten to 60 ftlbs...but it just seemed weird....the noise stops when I turn on the A/C I'll check it out......thanks again for the info...Manny
 
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