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Several years ago my a/c stoped switching from max to normal when I turned the knob, I had it and the rest of my a/c system checked and it was found that the blend door (or recurculate door-I can't remember which) had broken, and there were at the time no real permanant fixes for this, the a/c guy offered to cable tie the door in the MAX a/c position (recurlated air) because this was the colder of the 2-which I declined, I picked up a recurc door arm from Ford I have never myself looked at this situation but now I want to fix it so it will work right, any help or ideas would be appreciated! Thanks!
 

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Go to www.mark8.org. At the top of the page you will see a box "Lincoln Tech" etc. On the right. click "Lincoln repair and mod". When you get there, the first three items pertain to the blend door. I dont know for sure if a bird and mark are the same, but in a mark, it is a very common failure. I know at a FLM dealer, it is a repair with a $700 labor price tag. Last blend door motor that I bought cost $46.
I have done this repar in the past. Its a job.
 

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The blend door and recirculate door are completely different, and each have different difficulties associated with repairing them. The recirculation door arm is the worse of the two, IMO. To get access to it, you would need to remove the dash. This isn't all that difficult, just time-consuming and tedious. Remove all the trim panels and the center console, then the driver/passenger kick panels and the trim on top of the dash. There are 8mm bolts holding the top of the dash to the car under the trim panel on top. There are 15mm bolts holding the dash on each side behind the kick panels. Then there is a 13mm bolt holding the dash on the left side of the trans tunnel under the steering wheel (you'll see 2 bolts and a 90* bracket, but you only have to remove one of these bolts). Finally there is a 7/16" nut underneath the radio (you'll need a deep socket for this one). You will want to unbolt the wiring harness that connects behind the driver side shock tower (it uses a 10mm bolt) and disconnect all the connectors by the computer, but you don't have to disconnect or remove the computer itself. Also, it will be easiest to disconnect the antenna and push the grommet inside the car as that wiring will hold the dash up. Finally, removing the steering column will make the whole thing lighter and easier to work around. When it is removed, you'll be able to easily access the entire A/C/heater box and service the arm.
 
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