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Discussion Starter #1
Well summer is here and the A/C in the bird doesn't work..... here is what I have done so far

A/C Clutch wont engage with Max Air on and engine running.
Added one 12oz can of R143a to the system.
Gauge still read 0 psi.
Clutch still doesnt engage.
Took the pigtail off of the low side switch and jumped the switch with a 14 gauge piece of wire. Clutch didn't engage.
Checked fuse under drivers side dash, fine.

I am stumped from here. Did I jump the low side pressure switch incorrectly? I hope the clutch isnt shot. Is there any way of testing the clutch directly? Is there another relay that I am missing somewhere?

Thanks in advance for the help!

Brandon
 

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You can test the clutch directly by disconnecting the harness at the clutch and measuring the voltage; I believe you should see 12V if active. There is a relay for the clutch in the CCRM, and I think there is also a fuse under the dash for A/C.

However if you're getting a 0 PSI charge in the system after adding refrigerant I'd have the system leak checked.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Update:
I got the clutch to engage, apparently jumping the low side switch just momentarily isnt enough, I left it on for about 15 seconds this time and it engaged. I left the piece of wire in the system to try and fill it. I tap the can and the gauge will go to 50lbs and then slowly decrease as the can empties. I bet I have a leak somewhere.... going to put some dye in it and see if I can locate the leak.

Thanks for the input!
 

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Just hope you didn't inadvertently screw up your compressor by running it with out any freon/oil. (if there is a leak big enough to empty your system)
 

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If you can put in a can and watch the pressure drop to zero in front of you it sounds like you have a massive leak which should be easy to find. My condenser got punctured once and it sounded like I had a tire going flat until I found out the sound was coming from the front of the car.

However if you mean you open up the valve to charge and you see the pressure drop as the freon is going into the system .... that is normal (The pressurized can creates a sudden burst of pressure then starts to level off). Once you close the valve the pressure should be more stable assuming the compressor is not running.

Also when you jumper that switch your clutch should come on immediately, I'm not aware of anything that would cause a delay. However, like the other user said, don't jumper it if there isn't any freon in the system.
 

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The place to add the freon is on the accumulator, correct?

I took the cap off, and it was bubbling oil a little with the car off. Is that normal?

The car is a 96 Cougar 4.6, and the A/C is not blowing cold enough.

Thanks,
Al
 

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I was always under the impression that refrigerant was added through the port on the high side near the condenser. Could be wrong though.
 

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Yes you add freon to the low side (smaller diameter fitting, blue/black cap)The fitting is in the large line from the compressor to the accumulator. If you try to add freon through the high side (large one with red/black cap) the high pressures (up to 300+ psi) will find their way back into the freon can and cause it to explode. You shouldn't work on an A/C system unless you have a pretty good idea of what you are doing.
-Rob
 

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I will look again, but I only saw one fitting, with a red cap, that was obviously the high pressure side. Someone on here mentioned that the fitting was on the accumulator, I was just confirming that, and mentioned the oil bubbling when I took the cap off.

Thanks for the warning though, I felt like I was reading it right off the can!

Al
 

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Well summer is here and the A/C in the bird doesn't work..... here is what I have done so far

A/C Clutch wont engage with Max Air on and engine running.
Added one 12oz can of R143a to the system.
Gauge still read 0 psi.
Clutch still doesnt engage.
Took the pigtail off of the low side switch and jumped the switch with a 14 gauge piece of wire. Clutch didn't engage.
Checked fuse under drivers side dash, fine.

I am stumped from here. Did I jump the low side pressure switch incorrectly? I hope the clutch isnt shot. Is there any way of testing the clutch directly? Is there another relay that I am missing somewhere?

Thanks in advance for the help!

Brandon
Well, I'm trying fix my A/C I'm having all the problem as described above; but I had no power at the clutch so I checked the fuse..replaced fuse, and popped the fuse..apparently I have a short somewhere...does anyone have any tips on where to look or have had this happen to you?
 

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I don't know what the differences between the A/C system from 95 to 97 were, but the recharge nozzle will only go on one of the fittings. On my particular vehicle this happens to be on the accumulator.
 

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Put in a new fuse. Unhook the A/C clutch wires. Turn on A/C to see if the the fuse pops. If it doesnt I would suspect the a/c clutch field coil. It could seriously be anything that causes it to draw too many amps. You can use the unplugging test to isolate different parts of the circuit to rule out components/shorted wires. Good luck man!
 

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Well, I'm trying fix my A/C I'm having all the problem as described above; but I had no power at the clutch so I checked the fuse..replaced fuse, and popped the fuse..apparently I have a short somewhere...does anyone have any tips on where to look or have had this happen to you?
Hey Silver Kat,

Can you tell me what your fix was? I have a 95 doing exactly what you describe blowing the 10A A/C fuse. I just changed the CCRM, but it blew the fuse again this morning. The A/C works for 5 minutes or so when I change the fuse, then blows it again. I'm suspecting the compressor.
 

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That fuse doesn't feed the A/C clutch directly, so overdrawing current from a bad A/C compressor or clutch won't cause it to blow. From the fuse, that circuit goes to the A/C selector switch, then to the cycling switch, then to the high-pressure cut-out switch, then to both the PCM and the A/C relay in the CCRM. There must be a short somewhere in that circuit. I would start by checking the wires at the back of the A/C controls, then at the cycling switch on the accumulator, then at the high-pressure cutout switch on the line between the compressor and condenser.
 

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Well what fuse is the relay on? It has to be fused somewhere, it can't just have a direct wire to the battery.
 

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That fuse doesn't feed the A/C clutch directly, so overdrawing current from a bad A/C compressor or clutch won't cause it to blow. From the fuse, that circuit goes to the A/C selector switch, then to the cycling switch, then to the high-pressure cut-out switch, then to both the PCM and the A/C relay in the CCRM. There must be a short somewhere in that circuit. I would start by checking the wires at the back of the A/C controls, then at the cycling switch on the accumulator, then at the high-pressure cutout switch on the line between the compressor and condenser.
Thanks for the reply... I thought I'd report my results. I changed the CCRM, and didn't get any different performance (still blew fuse). I figured I was in for a compressor change and gathered parts to do that. Went down to a shop I have access to to change it, and we discovered it was about 8oz low on freon. Charged it up after changing the orifice tube just cause I had one, and so far so good. It isn't blowing the fuse and is blowing cold. I guess the moral of this story is check the easy things first...
 

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Mine was blowing fuses also the 10A under the dash..after buying a pressure switch, I was looking at the harness that connects to it and discovered a cut wire under the plastic wire cover.. I was able to connect the wires for a temp fix but I really need to replace the harness.
 
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