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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all,

My A/C only works sometimes, and very rearly...

When it does work, it gets ice cold, like it should...

When it's working, at idle the engine idle's smooth

when not working, at idle, the engine's idle bounces up and down...


Any Idea's?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
How do i do that?

If that is the problem, how much would something like that cost to fix?
 

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3rd Gear Chirper
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Easy to check, just crank her up, turn off the a/c switch. Now pop the hood and look on the passenger side of the engine, follow the belt down to the last pulley down, the one on the lower corner of the engine. (There is a belt routing diagram on the left fender up near the cowl that will show you where the compressor pulley is if u can't find it yourself.) This is your a/c compressor pulley, the pulley is connected to an internal clutch which is in turn connected to the a/c compressor. The center of the pully should not be turning right now. Go inside and turn on the a/c switch to either A/C or MAX A/C and look at the pulley again. The entire assembly should be spinning now. If this is not the case then you have a problem in the electric clutch circuit or the clutch itself. From what u say is happening, I'd start looking for loose electrical connectors.
 

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does it only cycle quickly (This is what causes the rpms to go up and down) when it is cooler or hotter?


Sounds like to me you just may be a little low.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
cross6 said:
does it only cycle quickly (This is what causes the rpms to go up and down) when it is cooler or hotter?


Sounds like to me you just may be a little low.

When i am getting cold air, at idle it is smooth... when i am getting hot air (with the A/C ON) it is reving up and down...


Last summer i bought a do it your self R134a A/C kit... When i hooked it up, it said the pressure was a little low, so i dumped 1 can in, the pressure didn't move, so i dumped another can in, pressure actually went DOWN... So i stoped filling it, and the A/C worked fine the rest of summer last year..
 

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Discussion Starter #7
As hotbird suggested,

I did the test..

When i turn the A/C on, 99% of the time, the outer clutch wouldn't spin at all, the other 1% of the time, it would spin for about 20 seconds, and then would stop...

So what exactly is the problem? How hard is it to fix? and how much aprox. does it cost to fix?


Thanks..

Chad
 

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Well if the compressor runs for a few seconds and then stops then it stops and the engine bogs sounds like your either overfilled, or your compressor is toast and the RPM sensor is cutting it off.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
cross6 said:
Well if the compressor runs for a few seconds and then stops then it stops and the engine bogs sounds like your either overfilled, or your compressor is toast and the RPM sensor is cutting it off.
I don't think the engine bogs down. The RPM jumps up, but it doesn't bog any slower idle then it normally is...

I talked to a guy at ford today, he said it might be a sensor, and gave me the part #.. Ford Part # 19E561

Its like a $40 sensor... I might try replacing that... I will also test the pressure, and make sure its not over filled.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I just checked the pressure...

It said 67 PSI, which is right over the Read line, The yellow area (before red) says, system may be over charged....


So now the problem is, how do you discharge the system?


So being overcharged will cause the compresser to stop?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I released some of the pressure to bring it down to 25-45 PSI like its suppose to be.

The clutch still doesn't spin.

As a test i unpluged the sensor that the dealership suggested i might need to replace, the second i unpluged it, the idle stoped bouncing. As soon as i pluged it back in, the idle started bouncing again.


Here's the picture that the dealership gave me, and the part they suggested to replace highlighted:

Dealership Air Conditioner Diag
 

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On 134a Cars the low side should be around 30 psi and the high side around 120 psi
If its higher than that it has too much gas. Let 'er down some.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
wkenneth said:
On 134a Cars the low side should be around 30 psi and the high side around 120 psi
If its higher than that it has too much gas. Let 'er down some.

The low side had about 67. I let it down to 35, but after sitting for about 20 minutes, the pressure started to go back up about 8 PSI's, even though the A/C Compressor isn't turning..
 

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whoah whoa whoah, you guys are giving this dude bad adive,



yes the pressure should be ~19 to 35 on the low WHEN THE COMPRESSOR IS RUNNING


if the system is off then the static pressure on the low should be about in the high 60's.


I'm sorry to be blunt, but without the knowledge and gauges, you are better off to bring your car to a trusted mechanic.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
ccornett said:
I released some of the pressure to bring it down to 25-45 PSI like its suppose to be.

The clutch still doesn't spin.

As a test i unpluged the sensor that the dealership suggested i might need to replace, the second i unpluged it, the idle stoped bouncing. As soon as i pluged it back in, the idle started bouncing again.


Here's the picture that the dealership gave me, and the part they suggested to replace highlighted:

Dealership Air Conditioner Diag
The problem is the sensor i stated above.

To figure out if it was that switch, i shorted the connector that connects to that sensor, when shorted the A/C Clutch engages and the A/C works. Thus proving that the sensor is bad.

Just an FYI for anyone else that might have this problem.
 

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I know this is an old thread, but I think I have the same problem. Can someone tell me where the rpm sensor is located or repost the drawing?

Thanks.
 
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