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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone I’m Niko and have followed these forums for a long time now and finally made an account. I introduced the car in a showcase so I don’t clutter this thread as I have a few questions. I also just did a newbie forum instead of the designated tech forums as I had a few different questions related to the car.

I am wondering if anyone with a 94 car has had their clock intermittently work and eventually die and if it’s fixable or if I should just get a new one and where I could get one.

If anyone also has a recommended type of glue for the centre console lid separating from the plastic I’ve tried hot glue with it only lasting a few months at best.

More importantly I’m sure the car did have a factory alarm and the keypad no longer works which I hear are wired together with the alarm module. Could this be a bad connector in the trunk or glove box? Possibly a fuse? If anyone can confirm the location for the alarm module in the 94s which I believe are different from 95 and up and the number of that fuse if these two accessories share one please let me know. Thank you everyone.
 

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I have no idea on any of that... but welcome. I'm sure someone will have some suggestions.
 
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1994 Cougar XR7 DOHC/5-Speed
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The factory alarm module is right next to the remote entry module in the same encasement in the left quarter panel, its a tan box with two connectors. It shares a few circuits as keyless but they mostly operate independently from each other, a blown ACC fuse would cause both to not work, though that would also affect quite a few other things, including the clock though, could be an intermittent open circuit or a ground issue. Sometimes the underhood light could be the culprit.

I never found any adhesive effective for the console lid delaminating, it seems to be a shrinkage problem with the vinyl used and its tension is too strong for most adhesives to set right. My solution was to unscrew the plastic bottom piece and stretch and staple the vinyl in place to the internal plastic where they wont be visible.


Your car is my cars twin BTW, I saw it in the showcase - WR white, feature car white/grey seats, JBL/10 disc, moonroof etc!

43365
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hello everyone I’m Niko and have followed these forums for a long time now and finally made an account. I introduced the car in a showcase so I don’t clutter this thread as I have a few questions. I also just did a newbie forum instead of the designated tech forums as I had a few different questions related to the car.

I am wondering if anyone with a 94 car has had their clock intermittently work and eventually die and if it’s fixable or if I should just get a new one and where I could get one.

If anyone also has a recommended type of glue for the centre console lid separating from the plastic I’ve tried hot glue with it only lasting a few months at best.

More importantly I’m sure the car did have a factory alarm and the keypad no longer works which I hear are wired together with the alarm module. Could this be a bad connector in the trunk or glove box? Possibly a fuse? If anyone can confirm the location for the alarm module in the 94s which I believe are different from 95 and up and the number of that fuse if these two accessories share one please let me know. Thank you everyone.
The factory alarm module is right next to the remote entry module in the same encasement in the left quarter panel, its a tan box with two connectors. It shares a few circuits as keyless but they mostly operate independently from each other, a blown ACC fuse would cause both to not work, though that would also affect quite a few other things, including the clock though, could be an intermittent open circuit or a ground issue. Sometimes the underhood light could be the culprit.

I never found any adhesive effective for the console lid delaminating, it seems to be a shrinkage problem with the vinyl used and its tension is too strong for most adhesives to set right. My solution was to unscrew the plastic bottom piece and stretch and staple the vinyl in place to the internal plastic where they wont be visible.


Your car is my cars twin BTW, I saw it in the showcase - WR white, feature car white/grey seats, JBL/10 disc, moonroof etc!

View attachment 43365
Thanks for the help! I did remove that panel and only found the black remote keyless box so maybe it never had one the other clips like the one it was clipped to where empty. So the alarm is nonexistent but I suppose I can check the fuse for the keypad and clock still and go from there. I’ll check that hood light too but I’m not much of an electrical person. I had recently changed the odometer gears and cleaned the clocks contacts if that will maybe remove the chance of some potential issues. At the moment my drivers window falls a little more after I release the switch and I hear a metallic rattle when I shut the door so I think I’ll be replacing a window guide soon. Anything to check on the keypad while I’m in there? Again thank you though and I must say I always saw you replying on here and couldn’t believe I had a twin! Any chance you have those white seats lying around and want to get rid of them lol?
 

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Not much to the keypad within the door itself, it’s basically just a weatherproofed series of momentary switches with the wires run to a connector run to the keyless module. Curious, it doesn’t work, but does it light up when you touch any of the buttons? The underhood light fault isn’t a problem I have personally experienced but that appeared to be the culprit of some keyless related faults others have had in the past. seems it can internally short and back feed into the module causing havoc. It can be unplugged from a connector near the master cylinder.

Unfortunately I let those seats go to another member many years ago, one of my biggest regrets actually, I hoped to try to get them back a few years ago as a pseudo restoration effort but lost contact with him, ended up doing a black interior conversion instead. The driver seat had some bolster wear but it would have been an easy fix for an upholstery shop. I still have the door panel/rear speaker cover inserts though, that pattern is unique to the pattern used on cloth portion of those seats.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Not much to the keypad within the door itself, it’s basically just a weatherproofed series of momentary switches with the wires run to a connector run to the keyless module. Curious, it doesn’t work, but does it light up when you touch any of the buttons? The underhood light fault isn’t a problem I have personally experienced but that appeared to be the culprit of some keyless related faults others have had in the past. seems it can internally short and back feed into the module causing havoc. It can be unplugged from a connector near the master cylinder.

Unfortunately I let those seats go to another member many years ago, one of my biggest regrets actually, I hoped to try to get them back a few years ago as a pseudo restoration effort but lost contact with him, ended up doing a black interior conversion instead. The driver seat had some bolster wear but it would have been an easy fix for an upholstery shop. I still have the door panel/rear speaker cover inserts though, that pattern is unique to the pattern used on cloth portion of those seats.
No light when I push the buttons though the keyhole light still works. The red and blue specs in the fabric was always neat to me surely a subtle reference to its American roots.
 

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The red and blue threads mean it's real, iirc. :)
 
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No light when I push the buttons though the keyhole light still works. The red and blue specs in the fabric was always neat to me surely a subtle reference to its American roots.
Yeah that sounds like it’s not getting power, question is whether it’s the keypad or the whole module. A quick test you can try is jumping the two pin fob programming connector by the module, if it’s working it should cycle the locks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yeah that sounds like it’s not getting power, question is whether it’s the keypad or the whole module. A quick test you can try is jumping the two pin fob programming connector by the module, if it’s working it should cycle the locks.
Good news is that I had to reprogram the fobs a while back and used that connecter and it all worked, the fob does all its functions as normal. I did have that box out today and cleaned all the pins with a cleaner and what not to no avail with the keypad. I’ll try disconnecting the hood light tomorrow too and see if any of non functioning electronics come back. Otherwise if the fob programming does out-lie the possibility of the module not working and the keypad having an issue where should I go from there? Thank you so far too!
 
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