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Discussion Starter #1
Alright,

I have this wonderful clunking in my front end which I traced to the driver side end link, I can grab it and rattle it by hand. All of the bushings in the front are shot, if you touch the boots on the ball joints pieces fall off they are dry rotted so bad.

I'm basically gonna be replacing the front suspension. I wanna do it all at once while I got it apart.
I would like some opinions of things I should either look into, or make an adjustment from the stock parts. The car does already have the sport suspension.
What about brands?

Vogtland 1" drop (do they settle a bit more after some use?)
new endlinks, (should they different than stock with the drop kit?)
New UCAs, LCA's
Tie rod ends
 

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Discussion Starter #4

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Buddy had vogtlands 3/4 drop looked fantastic and handled beautifully vs stock and better than my supercoupe did if money isn't bad for u go with some tokico adjustable even though its not a supercoupe or mark or xr7 pre 91 get them and adjust them ur self I got them and I love them on stock springs
 

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1997 Thunderbird 4.6, 1998 Mark VIII LSC
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Bad link.
 

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Discussion Starter #8

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......Who makes those, if I am not mistaken I did not see a manufacturer. For the uppers you will end up spending around $60 each for MOOG or real OEM motorcraft is about $90 each.

I don't understand what you mean by "I was looking at these CAs, the Motorcraft and the Moogs looked a little scrappy comparison."

Do you mean you think these look better than the other brands? Personally anything under $60 makes me suspicious and until I ran this thread

http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?p=1259549&posted=1#

I was going to bite the bullet and spend the $90 on MOTORCRAFT. Long story short I opted for MOOG and just finished installing the passenger side UCA today. I believe I had cheap, or stock MC UCA's and I am at 100k. Yes they last long if they have never been swapped out before.

However they are not grease-able, so if for some reason your new MC's lose any grease, your going to experience problems... Just did not sit right with me, and I use a mobile one low temperature high temperature grease, idk what the MC has inside its boot.

It has been about a year in random weather Chicago, IL, and I just greased the drivers side for the yearly maintenance..... Yeah that awesome red hi-lo temp grease was, or getting, black with red on the outside as it pushed out old and new, imagine keeping the same stuff in there for a few years. It did not sit right with me and after seeing that it kinda proved my theory, at least to me..

P.S. if you go this route you can use the old grease to lube other things, I usually spread it on the outside of the boot. Your never going to avoid the weather, but an extra coat of something else that will weaken from weather over time before the boot is a good thing in my mind.

*Edit* In case you were looking for recommendations for the required 18mm ratcheting wrench. I used this and it withstood dead blows from a rubber mallet and a heel kick to help loosen the pinch bolt (no signs of wear from all that). Felt like craftsmen to me. At least spend good money on this tool and do not cheap out and get a multi function one as it will probably be too thick to handle the passenger side bolt that is almost completely blocked in by the ac systems canister.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Duralast-18-mm-ratchet-wrench/_/N-25fu?counter=5&filterByKeyWord=18mm+wrench&fromString=search&itemIdentifier=482652_0_0_
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well, the stock control arms seem thicker, just have more metal there. Where the Moog looks like they trimmed down the arms and the Ball joint looks like a smaller diameter.

I've read to stay away from the Moog bushings because they are more plastic instead of rubber. I assume they use those bushings in the control arms they make.
With that being stated, do the bushings in the Moog arms wear quicker compared to the Motorcraft ones?
 

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This is only true when referencing the strut rod bushings, where the only acceptable replacements are from Ford. The bushings Moog uses in their upper and lower control arms are manufactured to the original factory specifications and will perform and endure as well as the components from Motorcraft.
 

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Well, the stock control arms seem thicker, just have more metal there. Where the Moog looks like they trimmed down the arms and the Ball joint looks like a smaller diameter.
When I did the Driver UCA I remember specifically inspecting the heck out of them, as I saw some peoples MOOG's have blue rubber. Not once did I think in my head that they were thinner in the metal department. Maybe someone replaced my UCA's before I got the vehicle, but since they were non refillable for the grease I thought they were MC's. Than again I did not look for a logo on the metal, I was more concerned with the bushing material compared to other forum pics I saw. (I kinda thought blue would be cool as well)

Also for the what should be OEM or not there is an article in the general forum going on that talks about acceptable subs for OEM and what should always be OEM and the bushings for struts are on there from a few people who probably experienced doing the job twice first hand. I wish that thread was around when I was shopping for 02 sensors. Now I have a year old bosch I am thinking of replacing with MC brand.... as well as a second uninstalled one I guess I cans ell to recoup some loss. :/

I just looked back at some pics I had of the UCA's installed and not installed, and one looked thicker than the MOOG, the other did not, the difference was the angle of my camera...
 

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Its Not Blue rubber its a cheap POS! I went thru 2 sets before settling on OE standard rubber bushings for the Strut rod this is the key to the entire front end cause is so evolved to remove almost every component of the the front end. Listen to this advise. BTW PartsGeek.com/ is a scam!!
 
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